New to kegging, anything I should know

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UnrulyGentleman

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Just got kegging equipment as a gift from the SWMBO and am excited to say goodbye to bottling! I've been doing my best to read up on the process on the forums and watch stuff on YouTube. Is there any advice that you wish someone had told you about kegging before you started that you found out the hard way? Any tricks of the trade that might make things smoother? I've got a chest freezer ready to go, a used 5 gallon ball lock corny, a used 10lb Co2 tank, dual regulator taprite Co2 gauge, picnic tap, appropriate tubing and all MFL connections. Little nervous about force carbing for the first time. Thanks all, excited to enter the world of keg!
 
The gas-in and liquid-out posts are NOT the same. You cannot interchange them. It is crucial that you keep track of which is which, and don't accidentally attach the "gas-in" post to the port with the liquid-out dip tube. The nut at the base of the "gas-in" post has little notches etched into it. You cannot use it as a "liquid-out" post.

Also, when you connect your gas regulator to your CO2 tank, there's a little plastic/rubber/vinyl/whatever washer that's supposed to go inside that connection to give you a good seal. If you omit that washer, you will have a leak and will waste a tank of gas.
 
Balance your setup so you get the right flow. This includes proper hose length and pressure.
Read the we need no stinking beer gun post. Great way to bottle from a keg.
 
My guess is that the beer lines that shipped with your kit aren't long enough. You will want to replace them with longer lengths in order to balance your system.
 
Also, when you connect your gas regulator to your CO2 tank, there's a little plastic/rubber/vinyl/whatever washer that's supposed to go inside that connection to give you a good seal. If you omit that washer, you will have a leak and will waste a tank of gas.

He said he had a taprite reg. When I got my taprite it said not to use that washer bc it has a built in o ring. Mine doesnt leak, and I dont use the washer.
 
Awesome input everyone, much appreciated. Those carbonation charts look pretty useful, I just wish they could incorporate how much time to keep the keg at a set temp and PSI. Anyway, really appreciate all your tips.
 
Awesome input everyone, much appreciated. Those carbonation charts look pretty useful, I just wish they could incorporate how much time to keep the keg at a set temp and PSI. Anyway, really appreciate all your tips.

I thinks its like fermenting. Set it and come back in 2-3 weeks. Pour and taste. 3 pours of the same carbonation is done. Move to secondary drinking stage. (Drink away and share)
 
kapbrew13 said:
I thinks its like fermenting. Set it and come back in 2-3 weeks. Pour and taste. 3 pours of the same carbonation is done. Move to secondary drinking stage. (Drink away and share)

Or fast carb and drink it the next day. Don't believe everything you hear about "set it and forget it". Fast carbing achieves the same result in a fraction of the time. I don't know about you but I brew beer to drink it. Not take up space in my garage
 
There are different thoughts on force carbonating, so find what works for you. I am one who after closing the lid and purging off the leftover air with 10 psi puts the keg in the kegerator without the co2 bottle to chill for 24 hours. After that I put 30 on the keg and roll back and forth for 10 mins. Remove the co2 and purge the keg with the relief valve and put serving pressure back on. You can drink at this point, but I recommend letting the keg sit overnight.
 
Awesome input everyone, much appreciated. Those carbonation charts look pretty useful, I just wish they could incorporate how much time to keep the keg at a set temp and PSI. Anyway, really appreciate all your tips.

They can't, because the batch volume and geometry of the vessel (and the head space therein) are huge factors when determining time to saturation at any pressure. Eg: a vessel with a 4:1 aspect ratio will carb way different from a 1:4 vessel, even with equal batch sizes, and you can image what difference in batch size does on its own.

In my experience using constant pressure per the chart for the temperature of the beer and desired carbonation level, a full corney takes two weeks to reach a good carb level, and three weeks to be perfect...

Cheers!
 
One important lesson I learned...check for leaks. Snug up your regulators with a wrench on the Co2 bottle. get a spray bottle and fill with starsan to spray the top of the corney keg and gas line connections. Any bubbling and you know there's a leak. It costs (me) about $28 to fill a 10lb Co2 bottle and it can go empty in no time flat even with a small leak.
 
Or fast carb and drink it the next day. Don't believe everything you hear about "set it and forget it". Fast carbing achieves the same result in a fraction of the time. I don't know about you but I brew beer to drink it. Not take up space in my garage

I brew to enjoy it and have variety on tap. No reason to rush drinking in my case. Everyone has their own ways. Whatever works.
 
This will be my first kegging too and will sneak my question in on your thread. If u do decide to set and forget it around 12 psi how would one take some samples. No way I could wait with it sitting right there. Would you purge it, adjust to serving psi, pour glass, then change back to 12 psi?
 
If u do decide to set and forget it around 12 psi how would one take some samples. No way I could wait with it sitting right there. Would you purge it, adjust to serving psi, pour glass, then change back to 12 psi?

That's what you "should" do, but I never bother. To be honest, I leave my kegs at around 12-15 psi all the time, including when pouring drinks. Yes, I get a bit of foamy head on my beers, so I set the glass down for a minute or two and let it settle, then top it up with another shot from the tap. Longer lines would balance it out a bit more (my lines are all around 6 feet), so I'll probably upgrade to longer lines when it comes time to replace these ones.
 
my suggestion is do what works for you. try the 5' lines that the kit came with (mine work fine) before buying new hoses, try burst carbing and the set and forget (i have used both and the beer turned out fine), everyone here is telling you what works for them, but doesn't mean it will be guarenteed to work for you!!

have fun with it!!
 
That's what you "should" do, but I never bother. To be honest, I leave my kegs at around 12-15 psi all the time, including when pouring drinks. Yes, I get a bit of foamy head on my beers, so I set the glass down for a minute or two and let it settle, then top it up with another shot from the tap. Longer lines would balance it out a bit more (my lines are all around 6 feet), so I'll probably upgrade to longer lines when it comes time to replace these ones.

You're "supposed to" turn the regulator down? That seems like a lot of work. I'm about 10 days into carbing my first keg, and I'm pretty damn close to being there :)

I keep checking it and I get about 3/8" - 1/2" of foam at most. I guess time will tell
 
Lots of good advice in this thread. Here are my top 5:

1. Keep track of posts when cleaning your keg. I find the best way to not mix them up is to only clean one at a time and then put it back on the keg before removing the other.
2. Keg lube. Every O-Ring, every time. Also, on the underside lip of the keg, as well as the inside lip of the lid. When in doubt, use more. A tube is cheap and it will last you forever.
3. After you rack your beer into the keg and close the lid, hit it with 30 psi for a few seconds to get a good seal on the lid.
4. Once you set the lid, check for leaks with a spray bottle with star san. Check it again.
5. Use an eva-dry portable dehumidifier inside your kegerator, keeps everything nice and dry.

5a. Build a DIY beer line cleaner (see link below). I absolutely love mine, when I finish a keg I flush the line with hot water, then flush it with some star san and I'm good to go. No wasted C02, no need to fill a spare keg with sanitizer or have a dedicated keg of sanitizer lying around like some of my friends do.
5b. 10' lines. I have had these from the start and I have never had an issue with foaming. If your current system came with 5', I would strongly consider replacing them with 10'.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/diy-beer-line-cleaner-226497/

Most of all, have fun while kegging! I definitely got frustrated a few times when I was first learning to keg, but now I look back at how silly I was being. Also, these are great instructional videos on the entire process (there are 4 total).



Cheers!
 
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Dont throw away your bottles yet. I keep a couple of cases of empties just in case I have one of those really outstanding brews that I would like to preserve a bit longer. I bottle up a good bit then keep them in the keezer and let them age while I fiish off the batch in the keg. I can re-use the keg for another batch and still have some really good specimens for later enjoyment. It also allows me to have a greter variety available to taste at any given time. Some days ya feel like a Bock others more like a Hefe, I can do that the way I have it set up now. Just some thoughts from the peanut gallery
Wheelchair Bob
 
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