KYB

Recipes 

Upon researching the Kentucky Common, I read that it used to be kegged/barrled shortly before fermentation was finished, and I guess it carbonated itself like that? I also read on the barrels they had to put special iron bungs sometimes due to the high pressure.

Now, could this work with corny kegs? I know there will be some sediment in the bottom. Would it clog the posts or lines if I hook it up to gas at dispense pressure and try to draw it out until i get beer? If so, would it maybe work at a higher pressure to force it through the lines, or would it just be a bad idea in general? It would be cool to do it as close to how it used to be as possible, and to be able to drink it quicker. It was brewed as a cheaper, quick turnaround beer to be consumed fresh and quick. Just wondering if this would be a bad idea or if it could work. I have 3/16" beer lines btw. If it might clog the posts in a corny keg, would it work in a Sanke, or would that be a bad idea too?

I was also thinking about kegging it shortly before fermentation was finished, and then transferring to another keg, but wouldn't I lose carbonation that way? This is supposed to be a high carbonated beer. Thanks.

Poindexter

Recipes 

You can ferment in cornies, and carbonate in cornies, and transfer corny to corny under pressure.

As you correctly sumrised, the tubing and so on is sensitive to crud. With whirfloc tabs and strained hops I do OK; but I still have to do a really good whirlpool and siphon carefully.

Generally trub and yeast cake is not a problem, hops and hop pellets are, thus the whirfloc and whirpool.

If you want to transfer from one keg to another without losing carbonation you need a spunding valve, several threads on that around. Locking up the keg a few points before fermentation is complete is uncommon I guess, but not especially mysterious.

Some pointers in thread linked in my sig.

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KYB

Recipes 

Well after 4-5 days of fermentation I would think there would be significant trub, so I don't think there will be too much in the bottom of a corny if it just finishes up fermentation in there. I still worry about even just a little bit of trub clogging the posts. These beers are supposed to be highly carbonated. I use hop bags, but there still seems to be a bunch of stuff in my wort a lot of times, and my whirpools don't seem to help, so I just dump it into the fermenter. Everything settles to the bottom of the fermenter.

Clayton

Recipes 

to me this would be cask conditioned ale
and should be wonderful. Cask Conditioned Beer ('Real Ale') in the U.S.A.

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Once, during Prohibition, I was forced to live for days on nothing but food and water. ~ W.C. Fields

Kauai_Kahuna

Recipes 

I wouldn't do it, it wouldn't be prudent. "waving hands".
Really lame "Bush Senior" joke there.

I think it would be great for a classic style mild, that can ferment and settle most of the trub by the time it is kegged.

To each style there will be a time, it will not be fully fermented out but you don't want a bunch of trub and krausen being racked over at the same time. Once the krausen has dropped most of my beers only really need a day or two to clean themselves up and taste good.

I can take a big beer, ferment it for 4 to 5 days at its optimum temp, rack it to secondary, give it 3 days at ideal temp, (I can't fit a 6.5 gal carboy in my keggerator) crash cool for a day or two and keg it, and give it a week and its tasting pretty good. Of course it taste much better a week later but hopefully you get my point.

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In Primary: Belgium Chimay clones.
In Secondary: Braggot, pale ale, end of the world white.
Conditioning: Mead, Cider, braggot, Belgium Wheat.
On Tap: Clones, Chimay Blue, Red, Porter, malted cider.
Bottles: Far, far, too many to list.