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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Bottling/Kegging > kegerator shank drill bit size craziness
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:39 PM   #1
docmoran
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Default kegerator shank drill bit size craziness

Can anyone tell me what size drill bit or hole to drill into my fridge to accomodate a shank. The widest diameter I can measure is 3/4 inch and the people at the HBS are telling me 1 inch. I feel so stupid but isnt that gonna let air out?? Whats up with the "sleeves" I have heard people talk about? Just trying to not ruin fridge and get some beer kegged/cooled/and drinked!!! thanks

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Old 02-26-2009, 05:49 PM   #2
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I drilled 1".

At first I left the cavity around the shank. The trim cover on the service side and the washer/nut on the inside will stop any air movement. But, the faucets will get cold (mine did at least).

Later I decided to pack some foam window seal inside the cavity. I think it just caused the shank to stay warmer so I pulled it back out.

No air moves but, somehow the lack of filler allows the faucets and shanks to chill and I think this is better.

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Old 02-26-2009, 07:18 PM   #3
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Excellent, and makes sense -- I do see how the trim cover and nut keeps it stationary and the getting cold thing makes sense -- Im going with the 1 inch bit! thanks, doc

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Old 02-26-2009, 07:37 PM   #4
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I second the 1 incher. I then have a 1.5" layer of rigid foam against the inside front panel of my tap box that the shanks also go through before breaking into the open inside of the tap box.

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Old 02-26-2009, 07:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
I second the 1 incher.
That aint what she said.

It's good if your tap stay's cold, less foaming is more better.
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Old 02-27-2009, 04:17 AM   #6
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I used a 1" hole saw bit as well. I lined the hole with metal duct tape as well to prevent foam from crumbling all over the place... no other sealant. Taps are nice and cold too.

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Old 02-27-2009, 12:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Later I decided to pack some foam window seal inside the cavity. I think it just caused the shank to stay warmer so I pulled it back out.

No air moves but, somehow the lack of filler allows the faucets and shanks to chill and I think this is better.
Seems to me there is a cold side (inside the fridge) and a warm side (outside the fridge) to the entire faucet/shank assembly. So if you insulate the inside/cold side from the cold then the warm side wins and the assembly stays relatively warm. But if you were to insulate the outside/warm side from the warm then the cold side wins and it would get even colder. So if you want the faucet even colder...insulate the outside.
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Old 02-27-2009, 01:20 PM   #8
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I poured my first fully carbed beer from the tap last night with the full tap setup. Poured right down the middle, Nice steady pour leaving a 3/4" head. Good stuff.

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Old 02-27-2009, 01:59 PM   #9
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For some reason I want to say I drilled a 7/8" hole and the shaft fit in nice and tight (giggity). No room around the shaft to even put any foam.

EDIT: Hmm...it seems like every site I looked at (Austin and Midwest) say a 1" hole. Maybe I'm retarded or something!

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Old 02-27-2009, 04:46 PM   #10
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I used a unibit meant for electrical knockouts. Bought it at Home Depot. It has a "step" for 7/8" and it fit perfectly.

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