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Old 09-05-2012, 09:54 PM   #611
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Originally Posted by kfeldman View Post
I was planning to chill it before drinking, but not before carbonating it. Is it better to chill the beer, carbonate it, and then let it come back to room temperature? I didn't think the change in temperature would be good for the beer. Thoughts?
I'd say it's best to chill it before carbonating and then keep cold, but if that's not an option then I think carbonating at RT and then chilling before drinking will work better than chilling, warming and chilling again.


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Old 09-10-2012, 06:47 PM   #612
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Does any know the required PSI to burst carb at room temp (say 68 degrrees)?
I normally carb at 30 PSI for 36 hours chilled, then leave at serving for a few days.
I'd like to move the carbing process out of my kegerator.



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Old 09-11-2012, 12:48 PM   #613
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The easy way to figure it is that set and forget is about 10-12 PSI at kegger temps and the burst carb about triples that to 30 PSI. Set and forget at room temp is around 22F so for the same burst carb technique, you'd need 66 PSI. Most regulators won't get there with the locknut still on, so you may have to go to around 50 PSI and give it 2 full days before dropping it down to 22 PSI for the remainder.

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Old 09-11-2012, 07:01 PM   #614
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Originally Posted by Bobby_M
The easy way to figure it is that set and forget is about 10-12 PSI at kegger temps and the burst carb about triples that to 30 PSI. Set and forget at room temp is around 22F so for the same burst carb technique, you'd need 66 PSI. Most regulators won't get there with the locknut still on, so you may have to go to around 50 PSI and give it 2 full days before dropping it down to 22 PSI for the remainder.
Thanks bobby. I'll give it a shot and report back.
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:35 PM   #615
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First off - Amazing thread. Tons of info here. All 62 pages.

One question I have that I did not see addressed was the impact of faucet height on tubing length. I just had a kegerator with tower delivered. It has 5' beer lines (double faucet). I've read many times here the recommended length is 10' for ~12psi serving pressure. Does the fact that there is a decent amount of vertical rise between the keg and the faucet have an impact on the line length? Thanks!

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Old 09-15-2012, 08:14 PM   #616
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Another method I've heard about that a local craft brewer uses is force carbing but dispensing CO2 into cold beer letting bubbles rise through the liquid. So in his serving tanks the cold beer is transferred, he connects CO2 line to the bottom and lets CO2 bubble in slowly, hopefully with lots of slow, small bubbles (increasing surface area). He says that after about 45 minutes of this 7 BBLs is ready to serve!

Obviously this is not directly related to homebrewing scale and systems, but I am wondering if anyone uses this technique, or has tried it?

If I missed this information in the previous 61 pages I apologize, but i didn't see it mentioned.

How I imagine accomplishing this: Racking into keg from carboy at room temp connecting your gas line to your dip tube, setting the regulator to 12-15 PSI (maybe higher?) purging O2, then placing keg into kegerator, and just barely cracking the CO2 inlet valve, so you can feel/hear a tiny amount of carbonation leaking in small bubbles. Then Setting and forgetting.

Now of course by the time the beer is cold enough to drink it will be about 24 hrs anyways and there are other tried and true methods of force carbing quickly, just wondering if this is feasible?

I do know that you CAN connect the gas line to the liquid out post on a ball lock keg and add CO2, any other reasons this wouldn't work?

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Old 09-26-2012, 01:31 PM   #617
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DelliPhel, what you are talking about is a carbonation/diffusion stone. Same things some people use to oxygenate their wort before fermentation. You can rig one up to a corny lid pretty easily (or buy one)

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Old 10-01-2012, 08:54 PM   #618
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Apologies if this has been answered already, but I cant seem to phrase my search correctly to find anything on it.

I have a keggerator that only fits two cornies, so I want to be aging + Carbing two more cornies at room temp. What if I stick 45-50 psi in the fresh kegs, and just leave them for two weeks. Is there any chance that the pressure will equalize out to around 12psi with the absorption into the liquid?

Another question, my co2 tank is at 40 degrees, and the kegs will be at 70 ish when I fill them, will that cause issues with getting an accurate reading on the pressure inside the kegs?

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Old 10-02-2012, 12:22 AM   #619
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I'm guessing that when you say stick 45-50 psi in the kegs, you're going to disconnect the gas. If that's right, then how much CO2 you have in there will mainly depend on how much space you have for gas in the keg (the head space). I think it's unlikely that you'll have enough to carbonate properly. Here's what I'd recommend:

Hook your CO2 tank up to the kegerator when you are pushing beer out of the tap. At other times, attach it to your room temp kegs. I'd suggest somewhere between 25 and 30 psi at 70 F will get you 2.25-2.5 volumes of CO2 in your kegs. When you cool the kegs down to serving temp, they will be properly carbonated.

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Old 10-02-2012, 01:35 AM   #620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safa View Post
Apologies if this has been answered already, but I cant seem to phrase my search correctly to find anything on it.

I have a keggerator that only fits two cornies, so I want to be aging + Carbing two more cornies at room temp. What if I stick 45-50 psi in the fresh kegs, and just leave them for two weeks. Is there any chance that the pressure will equalize out to around 12psi with the absorption into the liquid?

Another question, my co2 tank is at 40 degrees, and the kegs will be at 70 ish when I fill them, will that cause issues with getting an accurate reading on the pressure inside the kegs?
Use the chart at the link Bobby provided on the 1st post. If you are trying to get to 2.5 volumes, then set your room temp kegs at the appropriate pressure and leave them alone. For example, looking at the chart, assuming you have a 65 degree room you would look across until you see approx 2.5 volumes, then look up to see what pressure to set your regulator at. Then in about 2 weeks your beer will be properly carbonated. You are confusing the terms when you say that "the pressue will equalize around 12 psi." If you don't have a separate C02 tank and manifold, then do like bioguy said. You won't have to worry about the kegs in the kegerator because they are already carbonated ...so leave those alone, just disconnect them when you aren't using them.


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