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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Bottling/Kegging > Keg Force Carbing Methods Illustrated
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:23 PM   #561
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Originally Posted by peterlonz View Post
It's just my opinion but two things frequently not mentioned:
1) Set & Forget requires the gas regulator to be permanently "on".
A possible consequence of this, is that if there is even a minute gas leak, you can lose the complete contents of your CO2 gas tank which is expensive & very annoying.
Yes, a leak is ALWAYS a possibility, but not a likelihood if you set up your system properly. When I first got into kegging, I had a leaky regulator that was nearly impossible to check. But, since getting that little problem repaired, I have gone 2 years on a 20lb tank that serves 4 taps as well as boost carbing, pushing cleanser, and pushing Star San. I leave the gas on 24/7. I lost $20 worth of CO2, and fixed the problem... Things happen, but I am of the opinion that one shouldn't fear every possibility no matter how remote.
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It's now degenerating into nu uh and uh huhs and it no longer serves a point.
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:53 PM   #562
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Ouch. How slow does 1/8 dispense?
At 30 psi? Pretty fast. As your ID gets smaller, the pressure drop is higher per foot of tubing. I don't know the exact numbers but 1/8" ID at 10 feet may be the equivalent of 3/16" at 25 feet. I know which I'd rather.
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:56 PM   #563
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Originally Posted by peterlonz View Post
It's just my opinion but two things frequently not mentioned:
1) Set & Forget requires the gas regulator to be permanently "on".
A possible consequence of this, is that if there is even a minute gas leak, you can lose the complete contents of your CO2 gas tank which is expensive & very annoying.
How likely is this; well it happened to me within a month of moving to kegs. Had I carefully done a soapy water gas leak; YES, the leak proved to be so small that this leak test was not likely to detect it. How many possible leak points are there - well count them up there are many & most rely on rubber O rings which do deteriorate.
2) If you just apply a relatively high pressure (50+ psi , say) to a more or less constant head space such as applies to a newly kegged (but cooled) brew, it's possible with a bit of experience to get quite close to the desired carbonation level within a week or so, although subsequent additions of gas at progressively lower pressures are required over perhaps another week.
I can't give a positive guide on this just yet, but it's relatively easy in practice & so far I have not over-carbed to any significant extent.
Not as precise as "set & forget" but easy & much less risky.
I think you got burned too early. You should try to get back to a balanced system IMO. it is fine to boost carb to get up to carb, but guessing like you have suggested can't be easy to master. shutting off lines in between would be enough to make me go back to bottling. Almost 2 years on my kegging system and happy to say no leaks, even with my boost carbing method. Balanced system and happy.

Never thought I would hear "set & forget" referred to as the "risky" method
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:03 PM   #564
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I agree, a balanced system is happy perfection. Turning on and off the gas is a huge PITA.

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Old 06-08-2012, 08:48 PM   #565
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I had a leak on my first keg due to a bad pressure release valve. Just posting so other noobs know to spray down potential leak areas before walking away. I use a spray bottle of star san

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Old 06-08-2012, 10:47 PM   #566
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I'm reluctantly trying something different this time. I cold crashed my ipa for a few days. Transferred to my keg yesterday and set at 30 psi. Dropped back to 11 psi after 24 hours...hope it works out. This is only my second kegging. My goal was to get it carbed a little faster than three weeks. Maybe one week with this method?
So what I ended up doing was 3 day cold crash, set a 30 psi for 24 hours last Friday, dropped back to 10 psi but did not purge and it sat like that for 24 hours, purged and left at 10 psi. I'm drinking the Chinook ipa right now and it is spot on.

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Old 06-13-2012, 02:10 AM   #567
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Default Keg problem?

Ok, I have finally got my kegerator system up and running. As soon as I get pics from off my iphone and onto a host site, I will try post in the bragging thread.

I do have a problem that I need to address. here is my basic setup.

5# CO2 tank outside my chest freezer (13' Kenmoor). 6" collar, with tubing running from tank to 4-way manifold mounted on the back. These have approximately 3' hoses going to my four different kegs.

I only have 2 perlicks, and the other two taps are picnics until SWMBO allows me to buy two more.

All the kegs will be hooked to 10' of 1/4" ID tubing to faucet.

At this time, I have the two picnic taps running (A Whiskey Scottish Ale and a Aged Oak Porter). The perlicks will be hooked to a friend's Black IPA (He didn't relaize he was quite short on bottles) and a Honey Kolsch.

OKAY..... I mentioned something about a problem. The Aged Ported is pouring like a champ, but the Scottish gives a hiss and then sounds like it's trying to re-carb my keg. Nothing coming out.... except for a few spits of foam. both these lines and taps are new. Any thoughts on what might be causing a problem with the scottish?

Hoping to have all four running for a gathering this weekend...

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Old 06-13-2012, 02:44 AM   #568
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Hoped I could figure all this out without posting but I'm thinking it ain't happening.

My background:
New to kegging. First time around I cold crashed for 2 days, racked to keg and set it and forget it @ 11 psi (per carb chart) for 2 weeks. Carbonation seemed pretty darn good and I can't say I noticed a huge change from week 2 to week 3. Pretty much exactly what Bobby said in the OP.

My epiphony:
I started thinking there might be a way to use a sort of hybrid method of starting with a higher psi then backing it down. Came back here and read further into the thread noticing that many others are already doing this but using different starting psi's and there's some nuances in the overall technique here and there too.

My equipment:
Only have one keg and co2 bottle/regulator right now and the whole works is housed inside the fridge. Fridge runs at about 38 degrees and I have to open the fridge to pour a pint. The hoses are whatever were provided in a kit I bought from the LHBS but it's just a party tapper which is either 6 or 8 ft in length (at work now, can't verify). I can say with confidence though that I can pour at 10-12 psi with no problems.

My question:
Based on the above info, can somebody offer advice on how to shorten time in the keg while still ending with good results? Is that even a reality or is it truly a crapshoot still? Seems kind of like the process has been honed a little by the users of this forum and I'd like to get to the bottom of it if that's the case. Just put a new keg in the fridge about 12 hrs ago and would love to up the psi, then back down later but I feel like I need a push in the right direction.

Thanks in advance...really did try figuring this out by reading but I'm just not quite confident to proceed.

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Old 06-13-2012, 03:33 AM   #569
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35 psi for 48 hours will get you close (without going over ). Dial it back down to 8-10psi and you're good to go.

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Old 06-13-2012, 05:37 AM   #570
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35 psi for 48 hours will get you close (without going over ). Dial it back down to 8-10psi and you're good to go.
So at the end of 48 hrs, release some pressure from the keg and dial into a typical maintenance psi right? How long do you typically leave it at the final psi then before it's ready to drink in your experience?
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