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**Hoppopotomus** · 03-28-2011, 02:00 AM

Thanks....I just finished grouting my travertine tile on the top and coffin face today and will be sealing the stone/grout on tomorrow. I'm going to use the chart and go with what I have. I have been reassured by several people on other threads that as long as I only use 30 psi for 24 hrs. and then use the set it and forget it techinque....I should be fine. I'm gonna give it a go. Thanks for the response BigB!

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigB

I have 5' lines (Kegconnection.com) as well and I just followed the chart Bobby originally posted. My beers are perfectly carbonated and pour at a perfect rate.

Amc82 · 03-28-2011, 02:20 PM

So I have done some good research on how to carbonate and it seems that I may be going with the slow method. I have a Dog Fish Head 90 minute that I am going to carbonate at 9 psi at 35F for 2 weeks. Once its is carbonated and ready to pour do I just leave it at the psi to pour or change it. Any help would be great. I am still new to brewing and this will be my first keg carbonation. So any help would be great.

***Yooper*** · 03-28-2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amc82

So I have done some good research on how to carbonate and it seems that I may be going with the slow method. I have a Dog Fish Head 90 minute that I am going to carbonate at 7 psi for 2 weeks. Once its is carbonated and ready to pour do I just leave it at the psi to pour or change it. Any help would be great. I am still new to brewing and this will be my first keg carbonation. So any help would be great.

7 psi is a pretty low carb level, depending on the temp of your fridge. (CO2 pressure is depending on temperature.) My fridge is 40 degrees, and 12 psi gives me a good carb level on IPAs. 7 psi will be pretty flat, depending on the fridge temperature.

Your goal is a "balanced system"- that is no turning up or down to serve or carbonate. Think of a bar- they don't go turn down the pressure to pour a beer!

Amc82 · 03-28-2011, 02:33 PM

Thanks for the tip once I relized I put in 7 I took a quick look at some charts and thought 9 would be better.

Flomaster · 04-04-2011, 07:34 PM

since I am moving out of state I an bringing a green keg to the going away party being held at the in-laws house this Saturday.

this "west coast Blaster" was in primary for 4 weeks
I pre chilled the beer to 35ish a day before kegging on this past Saturday.
I set the psi to 30 and let it go for roughly 24 hours
I then dialed it down to 20 psi on Sunday
this morning I have it sitting at 10 psi I'll take a sample tonight after work and see where I am at.

but I think come this Saturday it should be carbed.

I'll have it in a bucket of ice and using a picnic tap on it.

party is this Saturday I hope it doesn't get kicked because I'd love to take it with me and let it age properly, but several people want to try my home brew. even though my Hefe seemed better than this west coast blaster ale.

-=Jason=-

Frodo · 04-05-2011, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flomaster

but I think come this Saturday it should be carbed.

I'll have it in a bucket of ice and using a picnic tap on it.

party is this Saturday I hope it doesn't get kicked because I'd love to take it with me and let it age properly, but several people want to try my home brew. even though my Hefe seemed better than this west coast blaster ale.

-=Jason=-

Dude, what's the address? You always forget these details and it's frankly pissing me off.

homebrewed505 · 04-11-2011, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby_M

Sanitize.
Flood with a bit of CO2.
Rack beer in.
Seal
20 psi of CO2 applied for a second. Vent. Pressurize to 20psi.

Now you can either store it warm for a while, leave it on serving pressure while you chill it, or chill it and perform a rapid carbonation method.

what is the benefit of storing it warm for a while, and while doing this is it hooked up to gas or disconnected?

If you store it warm for a while and now your ready to chill and carbonate, would you vent it then set it to serving pressure and wait?

**kdebow** · 04-12-2011, 02:19 AM

Hello All,
I'm going to be racking in to a keg as my secondary and serving vessel. I dont have refrigeration yet and wanted to make sure im understanding this correctly. I want roughly 2.3 volumes of co2 in my beer. the area I have it in is around 66F. Based on those charts im going to want about 25 PSI for 2-3 weeks or just for a few days? Then when i get a fridge, purge and reduce to 8-10 PSI and chill for ?days befor serving? I have 5' hoses. Also if i want it to just secondary i can just carb and purge to remove oxygen and seal, and let it rest? Would it still take two weeks to carb at a lower temp after that? <- if yes should I just go through with the 25 for the 2-3 weeks? Sorry for the novel, Sometimes i worry too much about my beer!

**Bobby_M** · 04-12-2011, 03:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by homebrewed505

what is the benefit of storing it warm for a while, and while doing this is it hooked up to gas or disconnected?

If you store it warm for a while and now your ready to chill and carbonate, would you vent it then set it to serving pressure and wait?

I mean you can store it warm out of necessity assuming your kegger is still occupied with kegs in serving position. If you can chill a keg sooner, go for it.

**Brewer3401** · 04-12-2011, 03:41 AM

If the chart says 66F needs 25 psi to get 2.3 volumes of CO2, you will still need to maintain that pressure for weeks, not days.

Also, since CO2 goes into liquid solution better in cold than warmer fluids, you may need a little bit more time than if you crashed the temp to 36F with whatever psi the chart says.

If you want to do the quickie method, at 66F, you may want to hold 60 psi for 24 hours, blow down (release pressure on your keg), then pressure back up to 25 psi and hold there for at least 1 week - blow down, pressure up to dispensing pressure and see what your beer is like.

I like the 1 day killer pressure, but a lot of people say the static carbonation pressure at whatever temp is the way to go - assuming you don't have ANY leaks between the cylinder and keg (I just had a leak, and lost a 5# cylinder overnight - real nice)