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Old 03-18-2011, 02:59 PM   #1
JayInJersey
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Default Keezer Carb issues

I'm having an issue with my keezer in that I'm going through air way too fast and everything overcarbs.

For the air issue...I've taken the whole thing apart now trying to find the leak and am going to replace a few gauges on the secondary. But even through all that I haven't found any leaks (used baby powder to help see the leaks and nothing)

The main question I pose to you all is whether my setup may be the culprit

What I have is the secondary regulators inside the tower with a door that opens so I can futz with the levels and change them if needed (IE set and forget force carb then lower to serving) all without opening the lid.

However I have the tank INSIDE the keezer.


So could the CO2 change from cold to warm to cold again be the cause of my issues?

Would the CO2 inside the fridge really be 10psi if the secondary and gauge are outsdie?

Or is the temp change from ~45* to ~70* back to ~45* really not all that extreme enough to throw off calculations?


Thanks!



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Old 03-18-2011, 03:36 PM   #2
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No, having the reg outside the freezer is no problem. What makes you think you're going through CO2 too fast? Have you run out? Overcarbing is mostly due to either setting the pressure too high or a bad gauge. Do you think it's overcarbed because it's shooting out too fast? What kind of beverage tubing do you have?



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Old 03-18-2011, 04:18 PM   #3
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It comes out way too foamy and like a powerwasher even at low settings (like 10psi)

I have that standard (what is that 15/16 or something) beverage line at 10' each tap (6 taps).

I'm changing out all the gauges as I want better than 0-60 on them. (2 are 0-30 the otehrs will be 0-15) I'm also changing out all the gas lines since I can't find a leak at any connection I have to assume there is a pin hole in one of the lines right?

When I had a simple 2 keg system 1 tank would last me maybe 2.5 kegs...now granted I have more kegs but I was only getting 3-5 glasses.

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Old 03-18-2011, 04:43 PM   #4
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Instead of baby powder, try using soapy water in a spray bottle to search for leaks. I do not think the pressure of a typical system (after the regulator) is high enough to detect leaks with baby powder. If everything is overcarbing and flowing too fast, I would suspect something is wrong with the regulator.

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Old 03-18-2011, 04:47 PM   #5
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How would one test a regulator?

I mean if it isn't leaking and the gauge says 10psi...how would one make sure that is really accurate?

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Old 03-18-2011, 05:08 PM   #6
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Swapping the low pressure gauge with a new gauge is one way, but you did that already right?

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Old 03-18-2011, 05:10 PM   #7
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Are you pulling the relief valve on the kegs when you lower the pressure down from carbing to serving? Just pulling the relief valve on the regulator does not have the same effect.

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Old 03-18-2011, 06:50 PM   #8
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Valve swap is in progress...I need a bigger workbench

As for the relief valve...actually no I wasn't now that you mention it.
Think that would do it?

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Old 03-18-2011, 08:39 PM   #9
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If you don't pull the pressure relief valve on the keg after dropping the pressure on the regulator, your keg is still pressurized to your carbonating pressure. In my case I force carb at 30psi for 24-48 hours, pull the relief value and turn the regulator down to serving pressure (10-12 psi) to check on the carb level. I then might crank it back up to 20psi for 24 hours, pull the relief valve and turn pressure down to serving and check again.

Any time you lower your regulator pressure you should pull the relief valve on the keg to blow out the excess pressure. Otherwise your keg can still be at 30psi even though you turned your regulator down to 12 psi. That excess pressure will lower as you serve from the keg but serving at 30psi is not going to be pretty.

Sounds like this is likely the root of your problem.

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Old 03-21-2011, 06:13 PM   #10
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Ok...that might account for the overcarbed as I figured releasing the reg's valve would dump all the line and the keg's "head pressure"

Thanks!



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