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Old 12-18-2012, 03:16 AM   #71
TheDawg28
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By the way I also switched out 2.5 co2 tank for a 5#'er. I also noticed tonight that the beer was flowing pretty slowly at after pouring two pints one after another. What am I doing wrong. One of the gauges is at the 500 bar mark with 10# pressure.

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Old 12-18-2012, 06:05 PM   #72
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I just recently bought the igloo FRB200 and i have. I have a problem with foamy beer and its deff not cold enough, going to try the thermostat trick. Just dont want to break anything still new to the kegerator world

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Old 12-18-2012, 07:31 PM   #73
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@TheDawg

The pressure dial should not be hard to turn. The other "switch" is the shutoff. It should face downward for fully open (which is what it should be). 10# of pressure should be more than enough for serving. Are you using this with a commercial keg? Are you sure the Sanke fitting is on the keg properly? It should pour a full pint in 8-12 seconds depending on pressure. It's possible there is a problem with your regulator, or the dial is displaying the wrong pressure if that is the case. It could also be a leak...if you run out of CO2 in the next few days, that is the culprit and it might not be manifesting itself until the keg/lines hit a certain amount of pressure (aka it's fine up to 9.5psi then slow leak at 10psi). If you are having leak issues, you'll have to spray everything with soapy water while it is under pressure and you'll see bubbles for sure. You'll notice in a previous post I was leaking at the barb on the regulator and just used epoxy to seal it up since it's a pretty crappy regulator. If I ever break it or need a new one, the plan is to get a quality one anyway and the epoxy is perfect for sealing up pipe threads and CO2 leaks. Could also try teflon tape I guess.

@NoFear, a thermometer in the kegerator shouldn't register more than maybe 41 degrees if it's on max cold and you have no ice buildup on the chiller plate in the back. If it does and you have adequate ventilation behind the unit, return it.

Foamy beer isn't always a temp problem either. There is an issue with the tower being uncooled so any beer within the lines in that section will be warm and really foamy at first, the problem should go away after you pour the first few ounces of beer after not having used it for a while (what I do is just pour the first bit into another cup if i'm pouring proper pints). Also, I generally suggust you have 7-8 ft minimum of beer line to minimize foaming as well. When I got my Igloo, I replaced the line from the tower down (pain in the ass). You could use an inline barb or something to extend the existing line too I guess.

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Old 12-19-2012, 03:58 AM   #74
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Thanks for the help. I did some checking and I had forgot to loosen the set screw on the knob. Turns freely know. It seems that I am keeping a constant 10# know. Pours are consistent now.

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Old 12-19-2012, 01:54 PM   #75
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Yea i never did set screw either, wasnt in directions. I also did the water temperature after sitting 10 hrs and it was down to 38 so im happy there. I deff have to get a longer beer line and tower fan, still getting alot of foam after intial first pour with 8psi. Yeungling usually settles after a min or two so i can deal with it for now. There should be a kegerator for dummies book

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Old 12-20-2012, 03:18 AM   #76
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Default Igloo Keg Tower?

Happy Holidays,

Has anyone accessed the tower on this yet? There does not seem to be a very safe way from what I can see but this is my first Kegerator. I want to go get some copper pipe for the beer line and do what someone either here or on another similar site suggested. You get a slightly larger diameter copper pipe and cut it 2-3" longer than the length of the tower. Slide this over the beer tube and the piece that sticks out in the fridge area will carry the cold temp up its length keeping the line cold ontil it hits the tap. Just file or smooth the inner edges to prevent the line from being cut and slide it over the existing beer line. I want to back the line off on an area that might be easier to remove the adapter. The adapter on the other end of the beer line that goes to the “D” style coupler is a crimp type and I am nervous that I will damage it and not be able to use the kegerator until I get a replacement. Thoughts? The tower has a silver cap, I tried using just my hands but it did not work. I do not see a set screw so it might just be on tight or it could be glued, not sure.

Thanks,

John M.

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Old 12-20-2012, 04:35 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nofear782 View Post
I just recently bought the igloo FRB200 and i have. I have a problem with foamy beer and its deff not cold enough, going to try the thermostat trick. Just dont want to break anything still new to the kegerator world
Please do not forget that you can also move the thermometer, it might be better to do so. that back wall if the freezer and it is getting a very cold reading, not the ambient temp of the fridge. You should be able to do so quite easily. Just follow the line from the temp adjusting device, back out a few screws and move that line somewhere else in the fridge that has a better ambient temp reading.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:19 PM   #78
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Default Copper Line

Hello,

I just added a 1/2" copper line over the beer line to see if it works. I will let you all know if this keeps the line cold or should I say cold enough to avoid any foaming in my locally brewed Denoginizer 9.7% IPA.

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Old 12-25-2012, 06:06 PM   #79
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I hope whatever I put on this forum has been helpful. I have added the copper pipe and it is working better than I expected. I have been getting foam free pours and it is great. I also noticed that the temp on my fridge was steadily rising. I decide to move the temp gauge from behind the freezer plate and what a difference it made. I had to go into the thermostat to lower the chill factor however. After moving the temperature gauge/wand the fridge would not stop cooling even on the lowest setting. That would be fine if I wanted frozen beer. I simply opened the temp control box and turned the screw clockwise or in what would be considered the tightening direction. I left the power on and kept the control knob just below the medium setting. I turned the screw very slow until it shut off. I then closed the control box and tried to adjust the temp knob, when I raised it from just below medium to slightly higher it turned on. I will have to keep an eye on the temp for the next day or so but this worked perfectly.

John M.

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Old 12-26-2012, 11:06 PM   #80
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Could you guys please post some pics of your newly mounted taps? I just got one of these for Christmas and would like to see how your mounts look before attempting one myself. Thanks!

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