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Old 01-26-2012, 04:59 PM   #21
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Did anyone end up ordering this? If it will hold 2-3 would it be difficult to modify the tap to support that?
Likely no, you would just need to install a new tower. If you install it where the current one is, you wouldnt have to worry about hitting coolant lines.
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Old 01-30-2012, 07:04 PM   #22
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still no word huh

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Old 02-16-2012, 01:51 PM   #23
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I ordered mine last night ($12 shipping too!)

Anyhow, I'll take measurements for you all when it gets here. Its my very first kegerator, so I'll be relying upon you guys for modding help.

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Old 02-16-2012, 04:37 PM   #24
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I ordered mine last night ($12 shipping too!)

Anyhow, I'll take measurements for you all when it gets here. Its my very first kegerator, so I'll be relying upon you guys for modding help.
Let us know how it is.
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:48 AM   #25
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Okay, here we go. FACT: This is my first kegerator, so if I slip up and give any opinion, please take it with a grain of salt.

Here are the measurements. I am able to take pictures (although the inside is black plastic, so can't guarantee how it will turn out). Please excuse my noobie-ness.

First and foremost, I paid $12 shipping to FEDEX ship this from WALMART to my door. Think FEDEX quoted it at being 97 lbs, so you know that there has to be a screw up here. Jump on it before they figure out that the shipping is out of whack.

I ordered mine Wednesday night, and it arrived Friday morning. I live three hours west of Chicago.

Really impressed with shipping and packaging.

The inside of the door concaves outward about 1". In other words, the inside of the door bends outward to make room for a round belly of a keg, but only by an estimated inch.

The compressor shelf is in the back and is 18"(w) x 7"(h) x 5.75"(d) <- estimated depth since the cooling plate sticks out from the back wall about a quarter inch and runs the entire width of the unit.

The base level (taking out the tray) where the keg is supposed to sit is 15.25"(d), 28.5"(h) and 18"(w).

Please note: There are ribs along the walls for where the wire shelf can sit on. The one that most protrudes is .5" on each side... which begs the question, can I take a sander and grind these things down and then fill the empty holes with some kind of caulk?

The tower hole is customized for this particular tower. It is 3 5/8" wide, but it appears that there is a custom snap-in mechanism where the owner is supposed to drop it in, and rotate the tower 45 degrees clockwise to lock it in. The hole where the lines go down is a mere 1.5".

The top of the unit is plastic and the sides are metal.

There are included wire shelves with this unit. Again, its a cooling plate in the back which gives me a little more faith to drill through this puppy (barring anyone warning me differently).

The temperature control is a knob control that's mounted to the top of the inside ceiling of the unit, and a wire that is exposed and free-floating that leads back to the cooling plate.

I didn't see any back-of-unit holes to run the gas line out of, so I'm guessing that will have to be part of the "improved design"

Of course, if anyone has any other measurement or general questions or needs pictures, fire away. I haven't unpacked the tower or the CO2. I already own a triple tap, and was planning on installing in onto this.

=== here's where I need help ===

someone with autocad or some other plotting software plug in my dimensions and let us know if three sixtels will fit or maybe even two slim quarters?

will i need to invest in low-profile sankes or L-adapters for this unit?

thanks much!

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Old 02-19-2012, 04:05 PM   #26
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Had the unit running balls out (that's on "high" setting, for those of you not growing up in the 1980's) for 20 hours. 40 degrees. No compressor modifications yet.

I just conducted a very crude measurement by cutting out cardboard circles 9.25" in diameter and checked. Will only fit 2 sixtels but will have enough room to leave the CO2 tank on the interior.

I believe there may be some cooling lines that go throughout the fridge, and that this unit isn't solely cooled by the plate in the back of the fridge. Is that fairly common? Will take a picture of the back where the compressor is, if there is anyone interested.

I have noted that my triple tap with copper liquid cooling lines will go down the stock-width hole if I rotate them a few times.

More on this fridge as I discover it.

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Old 02-19-2012, 09:02 PM   #27
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For the the shelves, are they the molded insulating plastic? On the Danby I bought, I just took a Dremel tool to them, then put some tape over them to keep it from dropped insulation foam every time I bumped it. No one knows anything about this Igloo, which is why I ultimately passed it up (and WalMart wanted more like $75 to deliver it to my door, I live two and a half hours east of Chicago). I think some pictures with some cutouts are in order. I would be really surprised if you couldnt get three corny kegs in there, even if it requires some slight modification.

Be careful with drilling, as there very well could be some lines running through there.

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Old 02-23-2012, 08:57 PM   #28
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They're molded plastic Was thinking about grinding them down, but here's what stopped me:

I did the ol' rubbing alcohol / cornstarch trick to find the cooling elements on the top of the unit. Let the fridge run for about a half hour with the door open. The sides of the unit were pretty darn warm, but the top was cool to the touch and no evaporation lines were left. So, I'm pretty sure that the sides of the unit have the coolant lines, but the top has none. Thus, I'm shying away from doing any kind of work to the sides of the unit.

Snapped three pics:

http://imgur.com/mWue6

http://imgur.com/MUPBk

http://imgur.com/wEvR3

For the pic of the whole interior of the fridge, that white thing in the upper left corner is a P.O.S. outdoor thermometer.

Other notes about this fridge: The plastic top easily comes off by removing the three screws in the back, then lifting the plastic up just enough to clear the edge, and then push the plastic forward towards the front of the fridge. Also, the door is reversible (movable so that it opens to the left).

Will check in occasionally for more questions.

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Old 02-23-2012, 11:29 PM   #29
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Finally, I used GIMP to create circles with specific diameters (9" and 9.25") to demonstrate how much overflow each are

9.25"
------
http://imgur.com/ghUbZ
http://imgur.com/7S4dT

9"
------
http://imgur.com/n3DKn
http://imgur.com/KPnMN

You'll see that there is definitely no way three sixtels can fit, unless there's a vertical collar installed (which is something I'm considering in the future). There is a realistic chance the three cornies will work... I measured the overflow, and it's 2", so it might just work if the third corny towards the front of the fridge is lifted up 3" or so. It appears that it would take advantage of the concave area of the door.

But no way on a trifecta sixtel solution out of the box.

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Old 02-24-2012, 01:44 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by OmahaVike View Post
They're molded plastic Was thinking about grinding them down, but here's what stopped me:

I did the ol' rubbing alcohol / cornstarch trick to find the cooling elements on the top of the unit. Let the fridge run for about a half hour with the door open. The sides of the unit were pretty darn warm, but the top was cool to the touch and no evaporation lines were left. So, I'm pretty sure that the sides of the unit have the coolant lines, but the top has none. Thus, I'm shying away from doing any kind of work to the sides of the unit.

Snapped three pics:

http://imgur.com/mWue6

http://imgur.com/MUPBk

http://imgur.com/wEvR3

For the pic of the whole interior of the fridge, that white thing in the upper left corner is a P.O.S. outdoor thermometer.

Other notes about this fridge: The plastic top easily comes off by removing the three screws in the back, then lifting the plastic up just enough to clear the edge, and then push the plastic forward towards the front of the fridge. Also, the door is reversible (movable so that it opens to the left).

Will check in occasionally for more questions.
Have you checked if you can do a 3gal on the hump? Im glad I backed out on this one, because three on tap was a requirement for me. I would just cut out those shelves, if you havent already done it, I can take some pictures of mine, they look exactly the same.
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