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Old 10-03-2012, 03:29 PM   #1
fredtheseal
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Default How do you move 10 gallons for packaging?

Ok, first some background information...

I brewed 10 gallons of Pumpkin Ale 4 weeks ago. I fermented this 10 gallon batch in an unmodified sanke keg with the spear replaced by a stopper and blowoff tube. The beer is done fermenting and had a chance to sit and "clean up" for a few weeks. To get the wort into the sanke keg, I ended up doing 2 5 gallon batches, putting the sanke into the fermentation chamber (chest freezer) and then pouring each batch into the keg using a funnel. I know my auto-siphon will reach the bottom of the sanke for racking into kegs.

My question: For those of you who do 10 gallon + batches, how do you get your fermentors into position for racking into a keg or bottling bucket? It needs to be at an elevated position and the only way I see is getting a buddy to help me lift it out of the freezer and setting it on a counter or other platform. Is this just how everybody else does it? I'd imagine anything bigger than 10-15 gallons would require using a pump to transfer into the fermentor and fermenting in an elevated position from the start.



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Old 10-03-2012, 04:19 PM   #2
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You can do it by yourself but its not fun... Get a buddy to help



I have seen a thread on here that a guy had a pully system in his garage for moving full sankes into his keezer that looked promising



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Old 10-03-2012, 05:18 PM   #3
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You should either buy or make a sanke fermenter kit. Then you can use CO2 to push your beer. Doing it that way is much easier than moving full kegs.

http://www.brewershardware.com/Sanke-Fermenter-Kits/

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Old 10-03-2012, 05:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonW View Post
You should either buy or make a sanke fermenter kit. Then you can use CO2 to push your beer. Doing it that way is much easier than moving full kegs.

http://www.brewershardware.com/Sanke-Fermenter-Kits/
I like this. I already have a spare 5# CO2 tank I could use since my fermentation chamber and keezer are in separate rooms.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:51 PM   #5
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You can lift it out, if it's too heavy get a carboy cap to stretch over the top. Racking cane goes in one hole and a co2 line in the other. Just let co2 do the work.

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Old 10-05-2012, 05:35 PM   #6
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+1 for the Sanke Fermenter - I have one and I LOVE IT!

Buy a few extra fittings from the hardware store and you're good to go.

On mine I use the following:

Flare cap to fit the racking port - I use a Corny post o-ring inside the cap to seal it up. (During fermentation I don't have the racking cane installed, so this covers the hole)

3/8" Compression (I think) to 1/2" NPT male elbow
1/2" NPT ball valve
1/2" NPT to 1/4" flare fitting (Co2 flare fitting goes here)

The 3/8" compression fitting connects to the blow-off tube on the fermenter after fermentation is complete. Remove the brass compression sleeve, and replace it with 2 thin o-rings (You don't want to compress the ring permanently onto your fermenter)
From there I installed a valve and adapter to the Co2 line flare fitting. This way I can turn the racking gas on or off without having to touch the regulator or gas tank.

At 3-4 PSI it racks great!

I should take pictures...

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Old 10-05-2012, 09:51 PM   #7
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Simple enough:

Buy the Brewer's Hardware kit. Hook a barbed MFL fitting to the end of your blowoff tube. When it comes time to rack, just hook that up to CO2, and you're good to go...

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Old 10-06-2012, 06:12 AM   #8
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The brewers hardware kit is a waste of money IMO. There are several other options that work just as well for a fraction of the price. I counterpressure transfer out of my sanke fermenters using the sanke spear.

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Old 10-06-2012, 06:19 AM   #9
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The brewers hardware kit is a waste of money IMO. There are several other options that work just as well for a fraction of the price. I counterpressure transfer out of my sanke fermenters using the sanke spear.
You're comparing apples and oranges. If the spear works for you, that's fine, but then you're also dealing with using a sanke tap and your spear is not adjustable like the racking arm on the Brewers Hardware kit. You obviously need to cut off part of the spear or you're going to suck in your yeast. Since it's not adjustable, how do you deal with varying amounts of yeast or hops? Also, sanitizing a spear and sanke tap sound like a PIA to me compared to the BH kit. To each their own - I think the BH kit is a nice piece for the money.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonW View Post
You're comparing apples and oranges. If the spear works for you, that's fine, but then you're also dealing with using a sanke tap and your spear is not adjustable like the racking arm on the Brewers Hardware kit. You obviously need to cut off part of the spear or you're going to suck in your yeast. Since it's not adjustable, how do you deal with varying amounts of yeast or hops? Also, sanitizing a spear and sanke tap sound like a PIA to me compared to the BH kit. To each their own - I think the BH kit is a nice piece for the money.
I said several other options, but only mentioned the one I use most often these days. For adjustable height (if you really find you need it), the orange carboy cap and racking cane set-up that JRems suggested above works great.

I use the spear because it's the fastest and easiest method I've found so far. Only the first few ounces are full of trub and yeast, even with varying yeast cake sizes. I drain those first few ounces into a growler and dump it down the drain, and then transfer perfectly clear beer to my serving kegs. I do have a couple spears that I trimmed a little off of thinking I'd need to for the reasons you mentioned, but usually use a full length spear to minimize beer loss. Sanitizing the spear is just as easy as the BH kit, or an autosiphon for that matter.

As you said, to each their own. I wasn't trying to disparage the BH kits, just pointing out that there are also cheaper alternatives. I probably could have worded that better in my original post, but I've been drinking scotch and homebrew.


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