How do you attach your collar to freezer chest?

Brewer's Friend 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
trainfever

trainfever

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
212
Reaction score
0
Location
Philly
Well the title is pretty much self explanatory. Those of you with freezer chests converted into keezers, do you mechanically fasten the collar in anyway or is it just held in place with caulk? I figure I can utilize the holes in the back where the hinges were attached but not sure about the front or sides, I dont want to put a hole in any of the lines. So, how do you fasten your collar to your freezer chest?
 
I used liquid nails. You'll never be able to restore it to a regular freezer, but if you were forced to get rid of it, it might go faster listed as a "kegerator" than a freezer anyway.
 
you can use coupling if you want but i just used silicone sealent. Take a look at my signature- theres my kegerator thread. It dries clear and waterproof and the collar is deffinitly stuck on.
 
STAD said:
I used liquid nails. You'll never be able to restore it to a regular freezer, but if you were forced to get rid of it, it might go faster listed as a "kegerator" than a freezer anyway.
Click to expand...

liquid nails is a bit more permenent. I wanted to be able to remove the collar (with force obviously) if the time ever came where i needed to move it or restore it to its normal layout as a freezer
 
I used white tub and tile caulk!

Just don't forget to get a good tight grip on your caulk...cause if you drop that caulk...it can make a big mess! and be careful if SWMBO is around...some women find that they don't like the caulk...and some are even allergic to the caulk!
 
BigKahuna said:
I used white tub and tile caulk!

Just don't forget to get a good tight grip on your caulk...cause if you drop that caulk...it can make a big mess! and be careful if SWMBO is around...some women find that they don't like the caulk...and some are even allergic to the caulk!
Click to expand...

This is so going into my sig somehow..................
 
StunnedMonkey said:
Depends I imagine. I once dated a girl who swore by white caulk. Once for a special project she used black caulk (kind of on a whim) and it's my understanding that she never used white caulk again.
Click to expand...

Alright you yahoos, we're supposed to remove all Off topic discussion from these forums, but I can't bring myself to do it. :D

Let's tie this in to the topic, shall we. I assume we're talking about a black kegerator? I've heard once you go black..............

But a black kegerator would really be awesome. Isn't Jester's black? I show some great photos of a black kegerator with a tower that really was awesome. I imagine that I'd want chrome tap handles for that.

I have another question- you used liquid nails or caulk to attach the bottom of the collar. Do you use the hinge for the top, using the original hinges? Does it stay without slipping then? (I'm trying to make a case for a keezer here).
 
YooperBrew said:
I have another question- you used liquid nails or caulk to attach the bottom of the collar. Do you use the hinge for the top, using the original hinges? Does it stay without slipping then? (I'm trying to make a case for a keezer here).
Click to expand...

OK, in the spirit of cooperation and keeping the thread on track (oh brother) I snapped a quick photo (as best I could without pulling the thing all the way out).

My collar is attached to the bottom with silicone caulk...the white caulk. (The black caulk came in tubes far larger than I needed for the job.) The hinges are attached to the lid in their original configuration, and then screwed into both the collar, and the freezer itself. I was lucky that the bracket lined up with the original holes on the freezer. It's very solid:

back.jpg
 
G.E. 100% silicone caulk.(available at HD or lowes) It is the only thing that secures the collar to the lid. I used the same caulk to secure the seal to the bottom of the collar.
Yoop, I have had no problems with my caulk letting go at the wrong time, and the collar can be removed from the caulk without too much difficulty. ;)
 
YooperBrew said:
I have another question- you used liquid nails or caulk to attach the bottom of the collar. Do you use the hinge for the top, using the original hinges? Does it stay without slipping then? (I'm trying to make a case for a keezer here).
Click to expand...

Yes Ma-am!
My collar is 2x8, so my hinges don't touch the original box of the freezer at all. The lid is 100% affixed to the collar. It holds great. Steady as could be.
 
StunnedMonkey said:
My collar is attached to the bottom with silicone caulk...the white caulk. (The black caulk came in tubes far larger than I needed for the job.)
Click to expand...

OMG you guys are killing me here.

Ok, so the hinges may/may not fit from the base to the collar to the lid. But it's steady even if not. I think I might try to convince HWMO into a keezer.

What about lifting those kegs out of the keezer? I'm a weakling. Does it cause you guys any issues if the collar is wider?

Trainfever- please feel free to tell me to GTFO of your thread.
 
YooperBrew said:
Ok, so the hinges may/may not fit from the base to the collar to the lid. But it's steady even if not. I think I might try to convince HWMO into a keezer.

What about lifting those kegs out of the keezer? I'm a weakling. Does it cause you guys any issues if the collar is wider?
Click to expand...

What's up with the world when the chick has to convince the dude that a kegerator is a good idea?

As far as heavy kegs, I get around this by never lifting a full keg in or out. It goes in empty and I fill it in place, and it obviously comes out empty. :)

But in any event I don't think a wider collar would impact that very much at all. It's unlikey to be wider that the freezer wall itself.
 
StunnedMonkey said:
It's unlikely to be wider that the freezer wall itself.
Click to expand...

She might mean taller.

Yooper...I'm not trying to make light of this...but ya, I take a deep breath and make that funny man noise when I lift a keg into place. You might try doing it once before you go full bore. My Keezer is about belly button high for me...I'm 6'3"....but My legs are short.
 
If your collar is attached to the lid, then you dont have to lift any higher than the freezer itself. Bobby_M has a great video on the how to.( it also keeps the beer lines out of the way while loading). I will have pics in the gallery in a few minutes.
 
beerthirty said:
If your collar is attached to the lid, then you dont have to lift any higher than the freezer itself. Bobby_M has a great video on the how to.( it also keeps the beer lines out of the way while loading). I will have pics in the gallery in a few minutes.
Click to expand...

I have to advocate attaching the collar to the lid as well. Makes everything 100 times easier.
 
+1 to attaching collar to the lid - makes moving kegs in and out very nice.

The only thing that I've found more difficult about that setup is that cleaning the lines can be a bit more awkward, depending on your methods. If you run cleaner through the lines using a pump or small bottle with a Carb Cap, you have to prop the lid open slightly to run lines in and still drain through the faucet. If you're mixing cleaner in a regular keg, then no issue - just hook up as normal.
 
Sorry for the confusion! I mean 1x6 vs 1x8, for example. Lifting a full keg, and then lowering a full keg into a keezer over a collar might be an issue for me. I'm about 5'5''.

But, filling in place is brillian! Of course, I thought about using the hump area for lagering, though, and a carboy in there sounds dangerous for me.
 
I'm getting ready to build a collar here soon. I am not going to attach it, instead, I am going to build a collar-in-collar design (see diagram). There will be a 2x4 with it's outside edge flush with the side of the freezer all the way around, and a 1x6 that will be outside of that (so it will stick out 1" from the side all the way around except where the hinges go on the back). It'll just sit on the freezer, which should be enough. It'll get attached in a round about way, but that's another story for a DIY thread when the project is done.

Code: 
  | FREEZER LID
  L______
| |  |
| |  |
| |  | <-- 2x4
| |  |
| |III <-- Insulation (weather stripping)
| |FFF  <-- Freezer edge

/\
1x6
 
planenut said:
I know mine is different but I added a set of garage door hinges and I can open from the base to collar or collar to lid. I guess I couldn't make up my mind... :)
Click to expand...

I'd love to see a picture of that. Or a more detailed description.
 
planenut said:
I know mine is different but I added a set of garage door hinges and I can open from the base to collar or collar to lid. I guess I couldn't make up my mind... :)
Click to expand...

billtzk said:
I'd love to see a picture of that. Or a more detailed description.
Click to expand...

use the oem hinges to attach the collar to lid and use the set of garage hinges to attach collar to base
 
eriktlupus said:
use the oem hinges to attach the collar to lid and use the set of garage hinges to attach collar to base
Click to expand...

It makes sense. But I'm wondering why you'd ever open the freezer door, leaving the collar down. I can see opening the collar and door together, and can think of no advantage that having the dual opening serves.
 
silicon adhesive for me (white and goopy. I had some massive cracks to fill. I'm a horrible carpenter)

I attached the collar to the base, but I think attaching to the lid would be better for all reasons stated. But, again, I'm a horrible carpenter and that takes more skills than I wanted to attempt.

I don't have a problem lifting kegs in/out now at my age, but I could see it being an issue later. My biggest problem is cleaning up spills inside. At 5'9", I can't reach the bottom over the collar. I have to hold towels in those kitchen tweezer thingies and go at it that way.
 
I used a 1X3 collar(red oak) attached w/ clear silicon. it's very secure. For my hinges this works out perfectly. I screwed the top hinge holes into the wood and the lower hinge holes fit the original holes on the keezer. Those using 1X4 or 2X4 make sure of the distance between the screws on the hinge. If I used a 1X4 then the hinge holes would not match up w/ the back of the keezer. I find 6" and 8" while getting more space really makes lifting a full keg difficult. The 1X3 is the smallest collar that can accept perlicks,IMHO
I also siliconed all of my interior joints. this prevents premature rusting of freezers. You will get moisture inside especially if opening for picnic taps.
 
I didn't caulk the collar to the freezer, it fit pretty tight and I can't feel any cool air escaping the joints. I did glue up the joints, to prevent any small cracks from opening.

Might have to think about using caulk, it might improve my energy usage
 
I thought about the different ways to attach my collar to the freeze and I am using industrial velcro (2"). It holds the collar on strong but with some wrestling I can get it off and it looks clean. Hopefully that might work for you
 
colglfr said:
I thought about the different ways to attach my collar to the freeze and I am using industrial velcro (2"). It holds the collar on strong but with some wrestling I can get it off and it looks clean. Hopefully that might work for you
Click to expand...

Might leak cold air. I doubt that velcro is insulating. You can always add a piece of weather stripping
 
bsay said:
I'm getting ready to build a collar here soon. I am not going to attach it, instead, I am going to build a collar-in-collar design (see diagram). There will be a 2x4 with it's outside edge flush with the side of the freezer all the way around, and a 1x6 that will be outside of that (so it will stick out 1" from the side all the way around except where the hinges go on the back). It'll just sit on the freezer, which should be enough. It'll get attached in a round about way, but that's another story for a DIY thread when the project is done.

Code: 
  | FREEZER LID
  L______
| |  |
| |  |
| |  | <-- 2x4
| |  |
| |III <-- Insulation (weather stripping)
| |FFF  <-- Freezer edge

/\
1x6
Click to expand...


I did this exact thing on my keezer that I just finished. Vinyl foam weatherstripping and clear caulk(not white or black, to avoid innuendo!) on the edges where the inner collar boards meet.


I was worried about removing the collar if I used caulk, though looking back it could probably be removed using a razor blade.
 

Similar threads

A1sportsdad
Attaching Collar to Keezer
Replies
14
Views
2K
monkeydan
monkeydan
W
Drill hole in lid/top of chest freezer?
Replies
4
Views
488
ITV
I
Zippy123
Keezer Brag
Replies
1
Views
497
Clint Yeastwood
Clint Yeastwood
B
4 tap Keezer build with a 7 Cu ft Arctic King chest freezer
Replies
9
Views
4K
Clint Yeastwood
Clint Yeastwood
Clint Yeastwood
Keezing at Last
Replies
15
Views
2K
Closet Fermenter
Closet Fermenter
SSBrew 300

Latest posts

Back
Top