Hail Mary

duskb · 09-04-2008, 06:34 AM

So this is a real longshot but given the circumstances I've got nothing to lose.

I picked up a used BM23 a few weeks ago. I just wasn't sophisticated enough to know what to look for then. Now I know. I should've seen red flags when I first opened it up and noticed it stunk to high hades. I even missed the rust marks on the bottom of the floor and on the regulator screw.

Here's the deal I've got HEAVY condensation in this unit, rain forest style. It turns out (after sticking a light inside the unit to verify the air gaps) the door is not sealing well. I took the logical route and ordered a new gasket from Beverage Air but after installing it I've still got major gaps (up to 1/4" in spots). I believe the problem is that one or more of the door corners has swelled up to the point where it's not letting the door close right. I called B.A. to get a quote on a new door and it's unbelieveably expensive, almost what I paid for the darn kegerator. The unit appears to be out of warranty too.

Steps taken:
I took a hammer to the corner but it appears the injection molded foam is pretty rigid, more so than the steel itself. Weather stripping does not work well either.

Sooo, anyone have a non warped used BM23 door they want to sell?

or more likely

any ideas on how I can make this one work?

MoRoToRiUm · 09-04-2008, 09:26 AM

Forgive my ignorance;

1. Who is the manufacturer of this model?
2. How warped is the actual steel of the door?
a. If it's not warped, I'd take off innards, gasket and all, cut out some of the foam (careful, it'll be messy), rasp it fairly smooth, and get some high rated foam installation board and HVAC tape. Build it back to the proper level, HVAC tape around the edge, put back on the inside door/gasket and viola!
b. If it's warped and no one else has/can find one, know any local metal workers? With heating and cooling of the steel, and pounding, they can fix it (or just make a new one). If you find one to fix it, or do it yourself, for the love of god, remove all the insulation, and make sure it's done in a well ventilated area (mmmm, burning foam insulation *cough cough*)

I'll see what I can dig up once I know the manufacturer, but could be a real interesting custom door :-)

zoebisch01 · 09-04-2008, 01:37 PM

Have you tried just torquing the door back to see if you can get it into place? I have done this before in other instances. You basically set you foot on the corner that is out and pull out on the opposite corner. If the steel is thin enough this can work.

jspence1 · 09-04-2008, 02:14 PM

I have a different type but I just fixed mine like that. I had a 2" gap at the bottom of my door I just gave it a little pull and it seals great now. I was also able to take the door seal off and give it a good cleaning. it had been pulled away from the door and was just hanging in a couple of places. It was very easy to get back in place and everything seals great now. if you are worried about the foam being the issue I'd try leaving it in the sun for a few hours that should soften it up for you.

Brew-Happy · 09-04-2008, 02:41 PM

Have you considered using a draw latch to pull the top and bottom of the door tight to the frame?

Here are some pics:

Hopefully, you can find some locally that aren't too expensive. Try a local hardware store or window/door builder.

duskb · 09-04-2008, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MoRoToRiUm

Forgive my ignorance;

1. Who is the manufacturer of this model?
2. How warped is the actual steel of the door?
a. If it's not warped, I'd take off innards, gasket and all, cut out some of the foam (careful, it'll be messy), rasp it fairly smooth, and get some high rated foam installation board and HVAC tape. Build it back to the proper level, HVAC tape around the edge, put back on the inside door/gasket and viola!
b. If it's warped and no one else has/can find one, know any local metal workers? With heating and cooling of the steel, and pounding, they can fix it (or just make a new one). If you find one to fix it, or do it yourself, for the love of god, remove all the insulation, and make sure it's done in a well ventilated area (mmmm, burning foam insulation *cough cough*)

I'll see what I can dig up once I know the manufacturer, but could be a real interesting custom door :-)

It's a Beverage Air BM23, I mentioned it above, and the door itself does not appear warped. IN fact as far as I can tell it's in good shape, which is what really irks me because I looked the thing over as best I could before I got it. Somehow one of the corners (where the vinyl gasket track is embedded into the door) has popped up almost 1/4". It's clearly a foam issue not the steel.

I think there's been some decent ideas below about dismantling the track along the edge of the door interior and shaving out the insulation...I just dont know if I'll be able to pop out the track without ruining it.

I'll report back if I'm able to fix it. I'm going to research the latch idea too...never thought about that.

**pjj2ba** · 09-04-2008, 06:19 PM

I don't know about your unit, but most fridge and freezer doors have adjustable hinges. If you loosen the bolts that hold it on, you may be able to shift the door so it fits properly and then retighten the bolts. This is a good two person job as it can be hard to hold the door in place while tightening the bolts

MoRoToRiUm · 09-05-2008, 12:42 AM

You beat me to it pjj2ba- Let us now how it turns out

**mysteryberto** · 09-05-2008, 12:53 AM

My used BM23 was warped as well. I replaced the door seal and then simply used the lock on the door to keep a tight seal. The seal has gotten better with time.

**Chriso** · 09-05-2008, 02:25 AM

Pictures might help inspire us. I know roughly what you're saying but having a hard time visualizing exactly which bit is warped.

Hope the hinge idea works out for you! Cheers!