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Old 01-10-2010, 07:04 PM   #1
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Default gotta rebottle; how much dry yeast to add?

Anybody know the formula for how much yeast to add at bottling? I have a beer that's been in the bottle for 2 months at 73 F and just tasted it again and it doesn't have enough yeast to carb up. No, I'm not going to keep waiting. When I poured it, there's literally NO yeast sediment in the bottle. After 24 days in primary and 25 in secondary, ALL of the yeast dropped out from the looks of it. The beer still has heavy priming sugar in it and no carbonation at all. No, I don't want advice on waiting and all that.

Anyway, I'm going to rebottle. Wish I didn't have to but I do. So, need to know how much yeast I need to add at bottling. Anybody know that formula for how much to add? How much does SN use at bottling? I remember hearing they filter, then add new yeast at bottling....

Lame that I don't have a keg system. But as it is, I'm just going to gently pour the bottles into the bottling bucket, add yeast and redo the whole bottling process.

Thanks for any info.

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Old 01-10-2010, 07:31 PM   #2
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Pour them all in the bottling bucket, add a full packet, and bottle again.


OR! Just get a pack of yeast, add a few granules to each bottle and recap.

These assume you are using dry yeast.

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Old 01-10-2010, 07:33 PM   #3
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If dry yeast, I'd only add half a packet. The bottling bucket would be a good and bad idea (I like it, but you'd aerate the beer like crazy pouring all of that in and you'd have to do the work again). Tough call.

Edit: also, I will say that I've done this before with adding a good 3-5 small grains/specs of dry yeast to each individual bottle and it took an extra 1-2 weeks to carbonate. So be prepared to wait even longer

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Old 01-10-2010, 07:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIP View Post
Pour them all in the bottling bucket, add a full packet, and bottle again.


OR! Just get a pack of yeast, add a few granules to each bottle and recap.

These assume you are using dry yeast.
I sure as heck wouldn't dump them back into a bottling bucket, it's going to be nearly impossible not to oxydize the whole batch.

I would go with open bottles, add 5-6 yeast granuals per bottle then cap with fresh caps.
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidSteel View Post
(I like it, but you'd aerate the beer like crazy pouring all of that in and you'd have to do the work again). Tough call.

Edit: also, I will say that I've done this before with adding a good 3-5 small grains/specs of dry yeast to each individual bottle and it took an extra 1-2 weeks to carbonate. So be prepared to wait even longer
Two great reasons to not rebottle. 1) You're likely to oxidize your beer and create some off-flavors, and 2) You're still going to have to wait. I'll respect the wishes of your post and not continue with that but I'd advise against it

EDIT: Revvy beat me to the oxidize warning ^_^
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:03 PM   #6
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Already know it'll possibly oxidize the beer. But if I avoid splashing, shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Waiting won't do any good. There's no yeast there to carb these. Carbonation requires yeast and there's simply no yeast left there to do the job.

Anybody have the formula that Sierra Nevada uses for re-yeasting?

Dosing the bottle directly sounds like a good idea, though....

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Old 01-10-2010, 08:48 PM   #7
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When I had to do it, due to a red ale that never carbed but I knew I added the priming sugar (don't ask, one time I don't really remember if I added the priming sugar or not, so I was hesitant to do anything), I dosed the bottles individually.

Now, I'm no biochemist, but I decided to add just a speck of yeast to each bottle. It was just a couple of grains. It worked GREAT, and the beers carbed up perfectly. I uncapped, added a couple of grains, and gently recapped.

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Old 01-10-2010, 08:56 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by YooperBrew View Post
When I had to do it, due to a red ale that never carbed but I knew I added the priming sugar (don't ask, one time I don't really remember if I added the priming sugar or not, so I was hesitant to do anything), I dosed the bottles individually.

Now, I'm no biochemist, but I decided to add just a speck of yeast to each bottle. It was just a couple of grains. It worked GREAT, and the beers carbed up perfectly. I uncapped, added a couple of grains, and gently recapped.
Great. That's what I wanna hear, direct experience. Thanks! I'll likely give this a go in the next week. It IS one of those beers that I just know isn't going to carb up. Dropping in a few granules of dry yeast sure sounds a helluva lot easier than rebottling. Wasn't so concerned about oxidation as my beer doesn't last so long, but this would be a lot easier.

Thanks Yooper!
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Old 01-15-2010, 11:31 AM   #9
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This is weird, but I have the same issue going on here. I was planning on rehydrating a pack of US-05 and sanitizing a medicine dropper to put like two or three drops in each bottle, then recap.

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Old 01-15-2010, 11:56 AM   #10
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Chill the botles as much as possible to get any CO2 that has been produced into solution.

I did this once with a Delerium Tremens clone that just seemed not to want to carb. I put the bottles in the fridge for a week, popped, added a tiny bit of Nottingham dry, and recapped. They never fully carbed (I think after 3 mos some of the priming sugar had been consumed). A couple of the bottles had a small hiss when I opened them, and I am almost sure these were the least carbed after the ordeal.

Long story short, I wish I would have been more patient.

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