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Old 07-05-2012, 05:20 PM   #21
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If you use sugar, you need it at room temp (ale yeast won't operate at fridge temp). If you force carb it, you need it at fridge temp (otherwise, you need more psi to carbonate to same volumes at higher temp)...you will probably need multiple cartridges too. As I haven't owned one of these, you might want to check other threads...but I believe people have said that it takes multiple carts to full carb a bottle.
When I racked into the bottles I put the tap on one of them and put a cartridge in it, then put it in the fridge. It was in there for about a week and I tried it but the beer tasted flat, although there was a ton of foam and a lot of pressure. The cartridge was empty so I put a new one in while it was still in the fridge. A few days later it was still flat.

I have since pulled that bottle out and left it at room temp hoping the yeast would condition the beer a bit more (it tasted a little green), but I have 2 other bottles that I primed and have been at room temp. I'm just trying to figure out if I should throw the force carbed bottle back in the fridge and hope it will carb up or figure out a way to prime it (leaving it at room temp of course) without making a bomb and tap one of the primed bottles.

Thanks.
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Old 07-06-2012, 11:58 AM   #22
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Hi

I suspect part of the problem here is that there is no pressure gauge on the system. Without knowing the pressure, it's very hard to force carbonate properly. The "until the bottle is firm" in the instructions leaves a lot to the imagination. You don't *have* to have a regulator, but a $9 gauge sounds like a good thing to get.


Bob

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Old 07-06-2012, 01:21 PM   #23
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I suspect part of the problem here is that there is no pressure gauge on the system. Without knowing the pressure, it's very hard to force carbonate properly.
I thought the regulator was set to 15psi? That was part of the reason I'm considering this.
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:16 PM   #24
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I've successfully force carbed 2 TAD bottles using the 16 gram cartridges. After bottling I put the bottle in the fridge for a couple days, then added the tap and a cartridge. I thought the beer was drinkable and some carbonation was noticeable after a few days. It takes about a couple of weeks for the carb level to even out and be really good though.

I get just a couple pints dispensed with the first cartridge, then have to add another. I recently purchased the TAD adapter from the Ebay dude and will be using the paintball tank/regulator setup going forward because I thought the cartridges resulted in just a bit of over-carbonation.

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Old 07-07-2012, 01:02 PM   #25
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I thought the regulator was set to 15psi? That was part of the reason I'm considering this.
Hi

Like any regulator, it only works up to a point. It needs a specific pressure difference to operate. Without a gauge you have no easy way to know if you need to put in a new cartridge. Since this is a "weeks" sort of thing with the right pressure, you don't want to sit there for that period of time doing nothing because the pressure is a bit low...

Of course you could just swap out cartridges like crazy , but that sounds like more money than a gauge.

Bob
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:31 PM   #26
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It has been 3 weeks and the beer is barely carbonated and I'm on my 3rd cartridge. I called SturmanBG and told them about my problem and they explained that it will take between 4 and 6 cartridges to properly carbonate. They advised me to pull the tap and prime the bottle instead so I can tap one of the already primed bottles. HTH anyone else who might encounter this.

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Old 07-14-2012, 05:41 PM   #27
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Hi

I suspect you should be switching out the cartridges more often. Three weeks should be long enough to carb the beer (if you are keeping it cold). If it's not cold then you need >=30 psi rather than 15 to carb.

Bob

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Old 07-15-2012, 11:01 PM   #28
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If you are using 16 gram cartridges then something is wrong.

1. When you screw in the cart, do you hear CO2 entering into the bottle? You should. You shouldn't hear it being released from the tap release valve. I generally have a bit of head space in my bottles and can see/hear the gas bubbling into the bottle.
2. The bottle should become quite hard to the touch.
3. Is the tap dispensing with any amount of pressure? If the bottle is hard to the touch, beer should dispense with a fair amount of force. As the bottle looses pressure and becomes softer to the touch it will dispense much slower.

I just went through an entire tap a draft bottle with no priming sugar (completely force carbed by carts) and only needed 2 total carts. Took one to carb, and another to dispense every last drop.

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Old 07-16-2012, 01:56 PM   #29
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@Hitokiri - yes, the first 2 carts went into the beer. I could see and hear it going in and the bottle was very firm. When I opened the tap the beer came out with considerable force. Cart #3 felt like it was going into the beer but I didn't really pay attention to it. Cart #4 leaked within a few minutes of me putting it in so I turned the tap over and noticed the O ring around the piercing needle wasn't seated. I popped it back into place but there was a little tear in it. Unfortunately popping it back into place didn't help since carts 5 & 6 both just immediately leaked after trying several things to get it to seal.

I bought the "TAD Adapter" so I wouldn't have to use the 16 gram carts, so I'm just going to use that now instead. I figured I would try the 16 gram carts it came with first before using the TAD adapter. Since it doesn't need to make a seal against the O ring I'm not worried about it. Kind of sucks that I wasted those carts and that the O ring broke on my first use, but oh well.

Thanks for the reply.

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Old 07-22-2012, 09:31 PM   #30
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Midwest is sending me a new tap and box of cartridges. Hopefully tap #2 performs betters. I'm hoping I just had a dud. The good thing from all of this is I have been forced to let my beer age longer than it would have otherwise. Hopefully the wait will be worth it!

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