wildwest450
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Lighten up Francis...
Perhaps you would like to add something of value to this thread?
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Lighten up Francis...
sivdrinks said:If you can over carb beer how comes it doesn't over carb when you set it and forget it? If the answer is beer can only absorb so much co2 then how can it be over carbed doing the other methods?
As far as the gauge goes, it must mean something. Mine went from 850 to 450 in less than a week. The fresh fill before that didn't even last me a 3 gallon keg. Do I have a bad bottle? Soapy water found zero leaks.
Perhaps you would like to add something of value to this thread?
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Yooper said:I don't agree with overcarbing and then turning it down. That seems unnecessary to me. If you have a fridge, set it at 10-12 psi and let it sit for a week. After a week it should be just about perfect!
Homercidal said:There must be something. I have lost pressure due to a QD losing pressure when it got cold enough. I just replaced it and so far so good.
When you start with a warm tank, the CO2 is less dense and therefore takes up a greater volume. A greater volume means higher pressure.
When you then chill it down, it is more dense and has less volume and lower pressure. So some of your pressure loss might have come from being chilled in the kegereator (if you keep it in the kegerator)
But that's a lot of pressure loss, so I suspect a leak somewhere in the system.
Do you use teflon tape on all the threaded fittings?
I don't agree with overcarbing and then turning it down. That seems unnecessary to me. If you have a fridge, set it at 10-12 psi and let it sit for a week. After a week it should be just about perfect!
Yooper - when doing this, do I hook up the C02 to the "gas in (gray)" connector and not the "liquid out (black) connector like I have seen others suggest? And I am assuming with this method you mention there is no shaking of the keg after hooking up CO2? Thanks!
Ok, ya I will just hook it normally to the "in" connector. So after its kegged and cold, just hook it up at the desired PSI (10-12) and let it sit, without shaking it at all?
I just hook it up correctly- with the gas into the gray connector. The theory with putting it on the "out" line is that it will bubble through the gas, and so make the carbonation faster. I don't think that works very well, as the bubbles are pretty big and would just bubble up through the beer anyway.
If you wanted to try something like that, I"d recommend a carbonation stone. It's an airstone, like for aquariums or o2 set ups, that diffuses the gas through a solution. I think Brewpastor talked about using one a few years ago, and liked the result. For me, I just hook up the keg in the fridge, leave it 36 hours and purge and reset down to 12 psi.
Hi, all -
I'm just now carbing up my first Corney keg, and I'm doing it at room temperature of 67 degrees. Per my carbbing chart, to get 2.5 volumes of CO2, I need to be at 31 psi. I'm using the "set and forget" method - but I have a few questions:
1. Should I expect the Corney keg's gauge to slowly decrease over the next two weeks? I set it per my chart at 31 psi, should I expect it to hold at 31 psi the full two weeks, or will it gradually drop?
2. Once two (or even three) weeks has gone by, do I just lower it to serving pressures (5-10 psi depending on length of beer line, or do I shut the pressure off, bleed it out, and THEN reset it at serving pressures?
1. The entire job of the regulator is to keep the pressure constant. If it drops, you either have a faulty regulator or a leak and an almost empty CO2 tank.
2. Assuming you'll be putting the keg in a fridge/keezer or somehow chilling it before serving, you'll want to adjust the pressure to correspond to the new temperature. Use the same chart you used to find the original pressure. If you set it at a different pressure, it will slowly gain or lose carbonation accordingly. The serving/carbonating pressure is not at all dependent on line length. It's the line length that's dependent on the pressure.
You can either disconnect the gas, chill the keg, then reconnect at the lower pressure, or turn off the gas, purge the keg, turn the gas back on at the lower pressure, and then start chilling it.
I figured if I carbed it at room temperature (67 degrees ) for the appropriate length of time (2 weeks), then disconnected the gas line, whether I chilled the beer or not, I thought it would keep the same volumes of CO2 in the beer - that is, once the beer has been infused with the proper volume of CO2, the temperature the beer is stored at later shouldn't matter (i.e. I thought volumes of CO2 are constant once dissolved into the beer).
If I understand you correctly, you're saying that if I carb the beer at 67 degrees for a set amount of volumes of CO2, then disconnect the CO2 line and chill the beer, that my volumes of CO2 will change.
Though I'm understanding your comment about line length, I will certainly check out the proper serving pressures vs. line length prior to serving the beer.
I thought it would keep the same volumes of CO2 in the beer - that is, once the beer has been infused with the proper volume of CO2, the temperature the beer is stored at later shouldn't matter (i.e. I thought volumes of CO2 are constant once dissolved into the beer).
Not at all- dissolved co2 is dissolved co2, so the volumes of c02 will be correct. What MIGHT be an issue is any c02 still in the headspace- you don't want 30 psi for example backing up any beer into the regulator when it's chilled and you set for the lower psi. Does that make sense? You purge so you don't have that problem, and then simply set it at the lower psi for the temp in the kegerator.
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