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-   -   first time kegging, co2 out overnight (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/first-time-kegging-co2-out-overnight-375555/)

finlayj 12-21-2012 02:59 AM

first time kegging, co2 out overnight
 
I tried kegging for the first time last night. I thought everything went well until I checked it 5 minutes ago.

The tank is completely out already.

Since this was my first time and I'm only going on what I've read and basic intuition, I'm sure there were lots of areas I could have goofed.

I did a lot of cleaning and using the co2 to flush the keg and lines, but that can't be it.

One thing I thought was weird, was the tank pressure on the regulator was already in the red when I first attached it. I have to assume the welding shop correctly did it though, right?

One thing I saw while reading was something about a washer between the regulator and the tank? For my set up I just had the regulator spinny nut thing screw onto the tank. That's how it was given to me, so I didn't question it.

I guess I can check for leaks once I get more co2, but should I tell the people at the welding shop I think they may have shorted me, or will I just look like a jerk?

finlayj 12-21-2012 03:00 AM

Also, since I don't currently have co2 flowing to my keg, will that 'hurt' or disrupt any of the conditioning?

Golddiggie 12-21-2012 03:06 AM

Just disconnect the gas QD from the keg and let it sit in the fridge.

What did the high pressure gauge read when you connected it all up (fresh)? Is this at room temp, or cooler? You should have at least a plastic spacer/washer between the tank and the regulator. Check at the LHBS for one (they're cheap). You can also check for leaks by charging the system and then turning off the tank valve. If the regulator gauges drop, you have a leak. Give it an hour before checking and see if the levels change. To locate the leak, start turning items off from the keg back to the regulator/tank.

I had a leak recently, that was actually the o-ring insert I had put into the tank outlet. I replaced it with a new one and everything has been fine since. So even the ones that are supposed to be perm, might not be.

BTW, what size is the tank you have? A standard fill on a 5# tank will read about 800 psi at room temp. To really know if you've been shorted, weigh the tank before you connect it up to anything. It should have a 'tare' weight listed on it around the top section. Subtract that from the total weight. If it's not the gas weight that should be in it, you've been shorted.

finlayj 12-21-2012 03:07 AM

EDIT

I went to go check on the keg for some more investigating.

When I pulled the release, unfortunately no pressure.

So what I gather from that is there is definitely a leak revolving around the keg.

Get a new o-ring set and see what happens?

They were reconditioned kegs, so I assumed they swapped out the o-ring for new ones

BigRob 12-21-2012 03:07 AM

You likely have a leak, it's a sad reality of being a newbie to kegging, you will likely lose a tank or two to a leak. You can easily lose a 10# tank overnight from just a tiny leak somewhere in the system, and no, there would NOT still be pressure in the keg if it leaked out. The only way your keg would still be pressurized is if you had disconnected it before everything leaked out.

There should be a nylon washer in where you connect the regulator to the tank, if you don't have one, check there first for a leak when you get the new tank. The high pressure gauge could be reading in the red because the tank was in the fridge (or still very cold from being filled), or if it was leaking at the tank, you might never have hit higher than a couple hundred PSI at the gauge.

Golddiggie 12-21-2012 03:12 AM

You can usually locate those mysterious leaks by charging your system to about 30psi (on the low pressure side) and then listening for leaks.

What type of clamps do you have on the hoses? If worm clamps, check to make sure they're tight. If Oetiker clamps, which were installed by the LHBS, you should be fine. Personally, I would advise against worm clamps. They can be very prone to leak, a pain to get to clamp fully, and will cut you quicker than you'd think. Oetiker clamps grab all the way around the fitting (full 360 degree coverage) so pretty much leak free once crimped. Plus they won't cut you when installed. I had leaks with worm clamps early on. Went over to Oetiker clamps and haven't had a leaky hose connection since.

Golddiggie 12-21-2012 03:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finlayj (Post 4703999)
EDIT

I went to go check on the keg for some more investigating.

When I pulled the release, unfortunately no pressure.

So what I gather from that is there is definitely a leak revolving around the keg.

Get a new o-ring set and see what happens?

They were reconditioned kegs, so I assumed they swapped out the o-ring for new ones

Might not be at the keg. If you lost pressure/integrity in the CO2 system the pressure in the keg would have escaped at the same point. Get your tank filled, get the spacer for the regulator, and then test the system before you leave it connected. That's the ONLY way you'll really find the leak and correct it.

finlayj 12-21-2012 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Golddiggie (Post 4704026)
Might not be at the keg. If you lost pressure/integrity in the CO2 system the pressure in the keg would have escaped at the same point. Get your tank filled, get the spacer for the regulator, and then test the system before you leave it connected. That's the ONLY way you'll really find the leak and correct it.

Will do.

I definitely heard gas leaking through the regulator/tank connection initially once the system was turned on, but then it seemed like it sealed/pressurized itself. Could be the culprit.

Golddiggie 12-21-2012 03:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finlayj (Post 4704048)
Will do.

I definitely heard gas leaking through the regulator/tank connection initially once the system was turned on, but then it seemed like it sealed/pressurized itself. Could be the culprit.

You should hear gas moving into the keg when you first charge the system. It should stop within moments though. If not, then you have a leak someplace (and probably a big one too).

I would also look for a fire extinguisher/appliance service/sales shop in your area. Those are places where you can typically get accurate CO2 fills for short money. Normal cost is about $10 for a 5# tank there. Welding gas shops have been known to charge over $20 to exchange (or fill) the same size tank. As you go up in tank size, the cost per pound of CO2 goes down. Such as $12 for a 10#, or $17 for a 20# tank. :D

CGVT 12-21-2012 03:30 AM

Refill your tank and hook it back up. Turn the pressure to about 30 psi and spray soapy water on all of the fittings and connections. (Tank, hoses at both ends, quick connects and keg posts)

I put a brand new 4 way manifold into my keezer when I built it and lost about half of a 20lb tank over night. I did the soapy water trick and found that I had a bad relief valve. I replaced the relief valve with a plug and then found out that all of the brass connections on my manifold were leaking. I had to take it apart, re-tape it and tighten it all back up.


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