commonlaw

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sorry for the late reply. Propane regulator seems to be working great (don't use a natural gas regulator as it does not work). Beer has been staying fresh and it doesn't get pushed out of the rocket pump, so not much to complain about. I'm still playing with some things, like what happens if I introduce a little oxygen in the beginning. But the propane regulator definitely seems like the poor man's cask breather. I love having a pseudo cask beer on tap all the time.

Let me know if you have any other specific questions. Build was really easy--just need to figure out what thread fittings you need to get it all connected (and get a regulator that doesn't have the propane part screwed on already--I bought one and for the life of me I could not get it off--had to spend another $20 for a new regulator with no fittings). I have a co2 tank feeding my single tap handle, another keg with a picnic tap, and the handpump through a 3-way manifold. I can pump up the co2 to force carb and the propane regulator still does its thing.

FrickD

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commonlaw, Are you keeping all 3 kegs at the same temp inside the fridge? Or is your hand pumped beer outside the fridge. I'm thinking of doing a similar setup to yours but I'm not sure on the best way to keep my "cask" corny or polypin at optimum temperature. Thanks.

commonlaw

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All three are in the fridge. It's not quite ideal but when I'm serving other ales I don't mind keeping their temperature somewhat high (~48-52F) too. It's a bit harder when I have a lager on tap, but even then I probably keep the temp in the mid 40s. Generally I think 50-52 is the perfect temp for your basic English cask ale (bitter, mild etc). I would not want my cask outside where it could really warm up, but if your environment stays in the low or mid 50s it could be good. Mine is in a garage where it could easily get into the 60s, 70s or even hotter in the summer, which is just way too warm. I would just shoot for a compromise in temps. As long as it's not ice cold the cask will be good, and it will warm up as you drink it.

14thstreet

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commonlaw, could you describe the steps you're taking to allow oxygen into your system? I'm not too familiar with kegging but have all the parts and want to figure in real-ale if I can. I'm on the fence about getting the pump you have, is that required?

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Fermenters: Empty
Bottled: Crack'd Wheat (Cascade/Amarillo Hefeweizen), Bourbon Vanilla Porter
Kegs: Empty
On Deck: Old Peculier, Riggwelter

commonlaw

Recipes 

Sure thing. It's actually pretty simple. I'm using regular soda/homebrew corny kegs. They have an in and out connector that hooks up to quick disconnects. You can read all about this stuff in the kegging FAQ. You carbonate the keg naturally with sugar. After 2-3 weeks, I chill it then vent it (let the excess co2 out). The beer out connector goes to the RV pump/ghetto beer engine as described in this thread.

The gas in also has a quick disconnect on it. At first I just hooked that up to one of the manifolds of my co2 and stuck a propane regulator in the line. This allows you to keep a blanket of co2 over the top without adding excess co2 or allowing the beer to oxidize. I.E. my co2 tank can be at 14 psi for other beers, but lets in just a tiny amount to the "cask" keg because of the propane regulator.

Now I am experimenting with letting o2 in for the first few pints, maybe for a day or so, then blanketing with co2. The idea being I get a bit of the change you get with cask ale from letting air in, without letting the oxidation totally take effect and ruining the beer before I can drink it. To do this I have just been unscrewing the barb on the quick disconnect that connects with the propane regulator and co2. This lets air from the atmosphere in when I draw beer out. Then I'll just screw the barb back on and open up the co2 flow through the propane regulator to blanket again.

You don't *need* the beer engine but if you don't have something that pumps you need to get the beer out via gravity. You could do this by laying a corny on its side tilted down slightly, and attach a quick disconnect and a picnic faucet or some other sort of faucet. But then it would be harder to chill etc. You can see some people have used those plastic containers with faucets and stuck them in the fridge. I like the pump because I can keep the keg refrigerated a bit and it is a bit more like a real beer engine. Someday I'll get a real English one, but then I'll need a bar to mount it to, etc., and they are pricey. As described in the thread, this thing costs like $30 so its not too much of a layout.

FrickD

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I just ordered the pump. For me, it's well worth $30 to give it a try and should integrate with my existing kegerator setup well. I actually think the pump looks nice in commonlaw's setup (and others) and it's much cheaper than a real beer engine. Granted, it would be even cheaper to use gravity.

commonlaw

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When you mount the pump to a box I recommend mounting it somewhat forward of center. Mine is basically in the center and it doesn't really reach my drip tray. I need to redo the box anyway for other reasons, but this might save some people trouble especially if they are integrating it into a kegerator or other existing setup.

jldesign

Recipes 

ok co2 is heavier than o2...when the keg is filled you purge all the air out with co2 and seal the keg as usual. you let it sit to naturally carb. once it is ready you release the pressure and hook up the engine and open the release valve and pump out the goodness you have created.....

ok would there not always be a layer of c02 in the keg until the last pint laying on the beer to not allow o2 to effect it? or am i assuming it is some sort of super layer and really will blend with o2 over time? mad scientists please reply?

either way I'm making one for festivals and camping!!!!!

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busy busy busy

FrickD

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Hmmm, well, I'm not a mad scientist but I think you might be onto something with your gas blend theory. Also, some of both gases will likely blend into the beer. Mad scientists...need more info.

FrickD

Recipes 

For those who used the Valterra, did you use 1/4" ID beverage line and did that fit on the barb on the pump or do I need to get 5/16"?