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Old 02-12-2013, 05:45 PM   #11
VincentK
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Well I carb my beer quickly around 40 degrees at about 30psi for give or take a day then lower to 3-6psi and serve and I get perfectly carbonated beer with minimal foaming if any... Like they say, ask 10 brewers 1 question and you'll get 12 different answers. Just play around with serving temp and pressure and you should find what works for you and your particular beer.

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Old 02-12-2013, 05:50 PM   #12
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It's not really a matter of opinion. If you drop your pressure lower than your desired carbonation level equilibrium pressure in order to pour without foam, it will begin to lose co2 and continue until it hits the new pressure. You can keep bouncing the pressure back and forth, but I'd rather go back to bottling than play that game.

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Old 02-12-2013, 05:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VincentK View Post
Just play around with serving temp and pressure and you should find what works for you and your particular beer.
And let your beer quality suffer? Pick a serving temp, and let the style (and/or your preference) pick the volumes of CO2. Then calculate the pressure, and leave it there till the keg's kicked. If you can't serve it properly, adjust your system accordingly. I don't understand people that go to all the trouble to make their own beer and then can't put a little effort into balancing lines or keeping temperature consistent.

If you're keeping your beer at 3-6 PSI at 40 deg F, after you've pulled a few pints it's going to equilibrate at 1.6-1.8 volumes of CO2 unless you're pumping the pressure back up each time. And that's basically flat for most (American) beer styles. Not to mention you'll get significant foaming until it all balances out.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:18 PM   #14
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I know that I have a pulse of foam on the first beer and is fine just after the pulse and I can get a perfect pour. I use 10 feet of 3/16 beer line and keep the kegs at 12 psi or what ever pressure that I need to keep it at the proper level. I have even had it up to 20 psi when I was force carbing and didnt get a lot of foam and a good beer just the right amount of head. I am also using a keezer with a collar so all the lines and shanks are kept cold.

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Old 02-13-2013, 02:03 AM   #15
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sorry just got back from work and I'll try to catch up with all the comments here

1. not going to adjust the pressure specifically for serving. set-it-and-forget-it for me. Once I get this thing balanced, I'm not going to touch it. I'll just pick a happy-medium carb level and not try to rebalance for each style

2. so even though my fridge is set to 38 F, I measured a fresh pint with my calibrated AccuRite thermometer and got closer to 43 F, so is this the true temperature to use for calculation? I don't like drinking beer any colder than that, but if it's preventing me from balancing the system, I can go down to 36 or 38 and just let the pint warm up before I drink it.

3. glad to here a complete teardown is not necessary for the faucet between kegs. For those who only push a gallon of cleaning solution, how do you connect it to the kegging system? Are you just pouring it into an unpressurized system with a funnel or something? Can I substitute PBW for BLC? I'd like to avoid having to keep a third chemical in my cleaning inventory.

4. The lines are connected on both ends via barb fitting. I had to heat the ends in hot water and jam them on to get them over the barb. After cooling down and contracting, there is 0% chance of air infiltrating at the barb fitting. In fact I have to cut off the end of the line when I adjust the length because I can't pull it off.

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Old 02-13-2013, 07:30 AM   #16
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I clean my lines with an empty keg when I have the cleaner in there I just hook it up and run it through the lines then I put star san in there and run a a quart in the keg and satitize the keg then I hook it to the tap and run all of it out until I jest get co2 out of the tan and close it and leave the pressure in the line until I am ready to use it. as far as the temp I do use the temp af a fresh poured glass to set my pressure level.

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Old 02-13-2013, 10:17 AM   #17
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It sounds like what one other forum member said... air getting in your lines/loose connections. I had this happen when my out post on my keg wasn't totally tightened down after cleaning. It wouldn't leak beer or CO2 (!?), but on the pour I got tons of foam and I noticed my lines would slowly get a larger and larger air bubble in them between pours.

The mis-manufactured shank is a good thought, too.

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Old 02-13-2013, 01:00 PM   #18
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I use one of these when I clean my lines. Bascially, I unhook the faucet, hook this up in it's place, fill the bottle up with cleaner solution, then hook up the QD to an empty keg and hand pump the cleaner through the lines. Then repeat with rinse water. I suppose you could do this with PBW or OxiClean, but BLC is damn cheap - $13.99 for 16oz of it, and if I'm not mistaken you use 1/2oz per cleaning, so it lasts damn near forever.

If you want to go the opposite direction, and save a few bucks, do some searching around the forum and you'll find someone has figured out how to put a specific ball lock post onto a cheap chemical sprayer bottle you can pick up at home depot, so you can fill that bottle up instead, and pump from the QD end and out through your faucet.

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Old 02-15-2013, 02:06 AM   #19
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the temperature of the faucet is not the problem - garage is cold so it's not warming up between pours. Pouring two beers back-to-back gives the same amount of head

all other things being equal, should a lower temperature give less foam @ psi?

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Old 02-15-2013, 02:19 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twd000 View Post
[...]all other things being equal, should a lower temperature give less foam @ psi?
Yes, just as surely as warmer temperature causes more foam.

Beer is carbonated to a certain level dependent on temperature and pressure. Once the carbonation level has stabilized, if you take that beer and raise its temperature, it can't hold as much CO2, so gas will escape invariably causing foam to form. Otoh, if you took the same beer and lowered its temperature, it could actually hold even more CO2, so you've removed one factor for gas breakout...

Cheers!
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