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Old 05-21-2009, 02:11 PM   #11
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Nice looking! Now that you've had it for awhile, would you say the wood glued to the sides of the freezer is a problem or ok? I would like to do something like this, but am scared of heat transfer problems.

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Old 05-24-2009, 03:55 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ajwillys View Post
Nice looking! Now that you've had it for awhile, would you say the wood glued to the sides of the freezer is a problem or ok? I would like to do something like this, but am scared of heat transfer problems.
Thanks! It has been a lot of fun to build. The wood on the sides does not seem to be a problem at all. Stays at a consistent 38 - compressor doesn't seem to run to often or too long.

If you do it, I would recommend just permanently mounting the tower or tap box to the top. I spent a lot of time and energy building it so that the tap tower could be hinged forward so that they won't hit the wall when changing kegs. The whole unit is very light, even with three full kegs it slides easily on the carpet. I just slide it away from the wall, change kegs and slide it back. Much easier than dropping the box.

Let me know if you need any advice on your build, I'd be happy to help!
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Old 05-24-2009, 04:35 PM   #13
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I had a kegerator go out on me where I used 1/4" ply around the sides - not even glued to the sides but actually applied to a frame that went around it giving about 2 inches of buffering between the ply and the freezer. It was an old freezer though, so it could just be that it was on its way out anyway.

Good job with your build, looks great! Honestly, the hinging of the taps is a great idea, I had a 7 cu ft freezer that got pretty heavy when it was full so even though it had casters under it the thing didn't want to move. I wish I could have hinged the top to make it easier. Oh well, I went for the standard collar this time around. Probably won't be the last kegerator I build, so we'll see if I like this setup better.

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Old 05-24-2009, 04:57 PM   #14
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Looks nice!

And a shop full of Jet tools, too. My jointer, band saw, drum sander, and drill press are all from them... good stuff.

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Old 05-24-2009, 05:05 PM   #15
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Looks great!

I need to do something like this one of these days. My old POS I bought from Best Buy is finally starting to crap out and 3 taps just isn't enough anymore!

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Old 05-25-2009, 03:31 AM   #16
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Looks nice!

And a shop full of Jet tools, too. My jointer, band saw, drum sander, and drill press are all from them... good stuff.
Yeah - A messy shop.

I do like me Jet tools too - they are a great tool at a great price.
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:12 AM   #17
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So, it has been over 2 years..... Any issues with the "skin"? I want a small 3 tap kegerator and this looks perfect!

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Old 01-25-2012, 12:56 AM   #18
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I, too am wondering if there has been any problems with the skin

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Old 09-30-2012, 02:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruin_ale View Post
I had a kegerator go out on me where I used 1/4" ply around the sides - not even glued to the sides but actually applied to a frame that went around it giving about 2 inches of buffering between the ply and the freezer. It was an old freezer though, so it could just be that it was on its way out anyway.

Good job with your build, looks great! Honestly, the hinging of the taps is a great idea, I had a 7 cu ft freezer that got pretty heavy when it was full so even though it had casters under it the thing didn't want to move. I wish I could have hinged the top to make it easier. Oh well, I went for the standard collar this time around. Probably won't be the last kegerator I build, so we'll see if I like this setup better.
The 2" space is what caused the problem, if the failure was due to heat. You increased the R value 10 fold from 0.09 to 1.0 or so. If glued directly, no issue!
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Old 09-30-2012, 02:04 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Iowabeerguy View Post
Thanks! It has been a lot of fun to build. The wood on the sides does not seem to be a problem at all. Stays at a consistent 38 - compressor doesn't seem to run to often or too long.

If you do it, I would recommend just permanently mounting the tower or tap box to the top. I spent a lot of time and energy building it so that the tap tower could be hinged forward so that they won't hit the wall when changing kegs. The whole unit is very light, even with three full kegs it slides easily on the carpet. I just slide it away from the wall, change kegs and slide it back. Much easier than dropping the box.

Let me know if you need any advice on your build, I'd be happy to help!
How did you address the tower box temperature? Is it a hot spot resulting in warmer initial pours and heavy head?
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