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Old 04-15-2012, 05:35 PM   #31
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:18 PM   #32
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Thinking about how a freezer cools (from the floor and walls), I would think that ducting the cold air supply from the bottom of the keezer (room permitting) would be optimal. A small section of drier exhaust hose.

From an air movement standpoint, which would be more efficient, attaching the fan to the low end (pushing the cold air) or at the base of the coffin (pulling the air)?



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Old 05-08-2012, 07:34 PM   #33
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Thinking about how a freezer cools (from the floor and walls), I would think that ducting the cold air supply from the bottom of the keezer (room permitting) would be optimal. A small section of drier exhaust hose.
The bottom is where the coldest air is, no doubt. My experience was that I just couldn't move/direct enough air to keep all of the shanks at the right temp. The one nearest the cold output would be quite cold, but further along the row, the temps varied. I tried using wyes to aim and direct it and wound up with something analogous to a 'tubing octopus'

I think that 'room permitting' is the most important aspect. A hose when cold is very brittle and hard to position and move. Plus, the box wastes real estate that could be put to better use.

By simply placing a high volume fan where the coffin meets the lid, I was able to do away with hose, box, and octopus and fit another keg. To me, this just seemed easier than dealing with the alternatives.

If you are able to get it working, please record your temps and post back here. I wouldn't want to dissuade anyone from trying things, the original post was about showing the shortest (and hopefully, cheapest) route to solving this problem.
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:44 PM   #34
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My thought was a center hole design with a "Y" into the coffin. The main fan would be an in-line duct fan as one of the posts mentioned earlier. Two return holes to either side (with or without fans) creating sort of a rams horn or turbo-charger effect.

All this packed in and routed as you any number of the other builders have done in closed cell foam. I will post the design as I build and complete it.

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Old 05-08-2012, 08:56 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shroomzofdoom
The bottom is where the coldest air is, no doubt. My experience was that I just couldn't move/direct enough air to keep all of the shanks at the right temp. The one nearest the cold output would be quite cold, but further along the row, the temps varied.
To an extent this isn't an undesireable effect if you ask me. Different beers and other beverages serve better at different temperatures. I don't have the link handy but I believe light ales serve best really cold, while lagers and stouts are best served 10-15 degrees warmer. If you were so inclined you could take advantage of different shank temperatures in your design by serving the beers progressively darker etc.

Keep the thread going, I'm about to embark on my keezer build soon with a coffin in the basement and a chilled line to the kitchen taps I plan on mounting a floor above.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:46 PM   #36
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To an extent this isn't an undesireable effect if you ask me. Different beers and other beverages serve better at different temperatures.
If there are no stratification or dead zones in a keezer, all the kegs will serve at roughly the same temp. Generally, the temp that's on the floor +/- a few degrees.

The issue with coffins is that the warm air rises, making the coffin the warmest spot--sometimes a 20-25 degree difference from the floor. If the shanks are not cold enough or the beer in the lines is warm, the first pour of every beer will be mostly foam as the gas comes out of solution at the warmer temps.

A fan breaks up this stratification, and also allows the shanks and lines to remain consistently close to the temperature of the beer in the kegs--this will result in less foamy pours--whether it's the first or last beer of the day.
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:51 PM   #37
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Default Coffin

I got a lot of helpful info from this thread, thanks shroomzofdoom.

If your going with a coffin and a collar I would think that a fan would be mandatory to get rid of that warm area at the collar. Then insulating the heck out of your coffin, leaving just enough room for the lines should give you respectable temps. There is very little beer in a foot of 3/16" line.

I almost went with a fan in the keezer to eliminate any cold spots but my temps were good enough for me.

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Old 12-22-2012, 08:09 PM   #38
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Something I'd like to add, if you want to edit it into the OP it would be worth pointing out. Be careful of the bearing in the case fan you decide to go with. Sleeve bearings are not meant for a horizontal position. If used horizontally, the will be much louder, and last generally only a month or two. For Horizontal use, make sure your bearing is a ball or fdb bearing.

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Old 01-26-2013, 05:47 AM   #39
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Subbed... Just about ready to modify my keezer and tips like this rock. Thanks!

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Old 02-21-2014, 12:32 PM   #40
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Default Looking to update my keezer to a coffin style keezer

I have started a 3 ring binder from various builds basically from Jester369 design. However I want to scale up to a 25 CF freezer and I have a 2X8 collar, basically because I wanted to use the original hinge attach holes (7" apart). I would like to get my hands on the Google Sketchup plans so I can scale it up to fit my size, plus an area on the side for my gas tanks (outside freezer but inside coffin base). Parts are not too hard to figure out but the base/frame is where I get lost. Any design plans that can help me would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Mike



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Last edited by mmmooretx; 02-21-2014 at 12:34 PM. Reason: typo
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