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**fosaisu** · 01-15-2013, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Golddiggie

... I'd have to check, but I think I used either a 9/16" or 7/16" drill bit to make the hole for the fitting to go through. I just put the dial caliper on one of them to see what it's max diameter was (sans the nuts and washers). Made the hole that size and it's golden.

Golddiggie, would it be easy for you to figure out what size hole you drilled for the CO2 bulkhead (sadly I don't have calipers)? I'm pulling together materials for a kegerator build and was hoping I could use the same 7/8" hole cutter for my gas bulkhead that I'll be using for the faucet shanks, but sounds like it's somewhat smaller and will require a different drill bit ...

**Golddiggie** · 01-15-2013, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fosaisu

Golddiggie, would it be easy for you to figure out what size hole you drilled for the CO2 bulkhead (sadly I don't have calipers)? I'm pulling together materials for a kegerator build and was hoping I could use the same 7/8" hole cutter for my gas bulkhead that I'll be using for the faucet shanks, but sounds like it's somewhat smaller and will require a different drill bit ...

The bulkhead is 1/4" MFL. I believe I Used a 7/16" bit for that. You could simply take the gas bulkhead and compare it with the drill bit you have. Or take it to a hardware store and get them to sell you a bit that will work.

Put my caliper onto the exposed end of one of mine. 7/16" is the outside dimension of the threads. So the hole will be tight/snug around it, which is what you want. You can always move the bit around a little to make the hole a little larger.

**kevin509** · 01-20-2013, 11:42 PM

I did same thing and then used secondary regulator inside mounted on shelf bracket.

fergusmj · 01-21-2013, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fosaisu

Golddiggie, would it be easy for you to figure out what size hole you drilled for the CO2 bulkhead (sadly I don't have calipers)? I'm pulling together materials for a kegerator build and was hoping I could use the same 7/8" hole cutter for my gas bulkhead that I'll be using for the faucet shanks, but sounds like it's somewhat smaller and will require a different drill bit ...

Golddiggie, I just used a 7/8 bit (same as for my shanks) and then bought grommets from Lowes. Put a grommet on each opening (inside wall and outside wall) and the hose fits about perfectly through it. Not as nifty as the bulkhead, but definitely cheaper. You can see the difference between the grometed hold and non grometted hole

**Golddiggie** · 01-21-2013, 09:08 PM

fergusmj, so you went bass ackwards on it... Typically, we put the manifolds INSIDE the fridge/kegorator/keezer and run a single line to feed it. You went with the manifold outside and fed the lines through. IF I was to do that method, I'd have 5 holes in my brew fridge instead of just two. Also, the gas bulkheads, while costing not all that much (got mine for $8-12 each) also means smaller holes, so less chance/risk of hitting anything inside the walls. It also means less insulation removed and less chance of something going sideways.

While you spent less on the hardware, it probably took you longer to configure. If you need to change the line feeding the keg, or hunt down a leak, you're looking at more work for yourself.

BTW, I didn't use the caliper to get the drill bit size the first time. I simply used a ruler to see what it was for an OD and went with that. Really not that difficult to do, for many of us.

fergusmj · 01-22-2013, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Golddiggie

fergusmj, so you went bass ackwards on it... Typically, we put the manifolds INSIDE the fridge/kegorator/keezer and run a single line to feed it. You went with the manifold outside and fed the lines through. IF I was to do that method, I'd have 5 holes in my brew fridge instead of just two. Also, the gas bulkheads, while costing not all that much (got mine for $8-12 each) also means smaller holes, so less chance/risk of hitting anything inside the walls. It also means less insulation removed and less chance of something going sideways.

While you spent less on the hardware, it probably took you longer to configure. If you need to change the line feeding the keg, or hunt down a leak, you're looking at more work for yourself.

BTW, I didn't use the caliper to get the drill bit size the first time. I simply used a ruler to see what it was for an OD and went with that. Really not that difficult to do, for many of us.

So I just realized that I quoted your response instead of the OP's comment, so apologies on that. I wasn't trying to say your way wasn't right, I was just trying to provide the OP with another alternative. I don't disagree with the manifold on the inside to provide a cleaner look and less holes in the fridge. Luckily mine is one of the old ones with the coils all on the back, so there was no worry there. My goal was to have to open / close the fridge as little as possible, so I wanted the manifold with the on/off valve on the outside in case I want / need to ever shut them off. If I had seen your method before I did mine, I quite possibly would have gone your route too as it is a very clean looking setup.