chest freezer kegerator assembly questions

BrewDoc_Md · 05-03-2008, 01:20 PM

I'm getting a 7.2 cuft chest freezer later today and plan on building a collar for it to hold 4 cornys and a CO2 tank (picking up a 20 # tank tomorrow dirt cheap). I've read a bunch of articles on here and elsewhere about how to construct it and have a few last minute questions:

1) Proper spacing between faucets? I've read where most people install them 4" apart from center to center. Anything magical about that number? Is there "optimal" spacing for some reason? I made a 14" wide drip trough, so 4" spacing would be ok. Just curious.

2) A couple guys remarked that if they could do it all over again, they'd put the CO2 tank on the hump and drill the faucets+shanks and secondary CO2 manifold near the hump, too. Is the thinking that doing this would allow for easier, less obstructed corny access in the deeper part of the freezer?

3) I know the beer lines have to be a certian length to prevent foaming. Do the CO2 lines need to be a certain length as well for any reason? Or can they be as short as possible (say, from regulator to manifold)? And do I need to sanitize (like with StarSan) the CO2 lines/manifold before usage?

4) When installing the shanks, do I NEED anything else in the drilled hole besides the shank? A couple guys put PVC piping in theirs...but I wasn't sure if this is "clever", or just to compensate for drilling their hole too large initially. Does there need to be extra foam/styrophoam insullation around the shank?

Thanks for the advice!

janzik · 05-03-2008, 04:47 PM

Will a 20# tank fit in a 7.8cu ft chest freezer with 4 cornies? I've been wanting to pick up this one (as per Bobby_M's recommendation).

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=155204-53913-EHL090FXRQ&lpage=none

That will fit 5 cornies and might fit a small tank on the hump.

I was thinking about just doing 4 so I could put a bigger tank in the 5th "spot". The room I want to put the freezer in doesn't lend itself to having the tank show.

Also, I have some questions too...

I see Midwest has this setup.. (They have a 4 way too, but the 2 way has a picture..)
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/products/ProdByID.aspx?ProdID=7739

Would I be good to go with a setup like this, but adding on a set of faucets and shanks to replace the picnic taps? Do I need to get different tubing? Is a 5lb tank enough for a 4 keg system? Is there a preferred faucet/shank set to look for? Is there anything I need to be aware of for keeping the tank on the inside rather than the outside?

I seen on Bobby's YouTube video he disassembles the thermostat setup. I'm not comfortable messing with that. Would I be ok with something like this?

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=thermostat

BrewDoc_Md · 05-03-2008, 07:13 PM

I'm using 2"x8" boards for my collar, so an extra corny can fit on the hump (2 more if I put the CO2 outside). The extra height will let me put the 20# CO2 inside. 5# is enough to serve multiple cornies, but not to force carb (you'll still be refilling it pretty often just serving).

I bought a Ranco temp controller off ebay pretty cheaply and wired itmyself using the diagrams and step-by-step instruction found on threads on this site. All you need to buy the Ranco and an appliance extension cord to splice (and one extra little piece of wire). You can buy a pre-wired one, but it's simple to do yourself:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/ranco-wiring-what-did-i-do-wrong-26496/

I bought that Midwest kegging system kit to start with. But also added a couple extra cornies and a 4-way manifold. I like having the second regulator to force carb at 30 psi while still being able to serve the other kegs at 10-12 psi.

Everyone recommended you get Perlick faucets if you can afford them (> $30 each). Rapids wholesale has the best price on new ones:
http://rapidswholesale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RWEC&Product_C ode=8P490&Product_Count=&Category_Code=

**gwood** · 05-06-2008, 05:45 PM

Just wanted to give this thread a bump for BrewDoc. I'm building up parts list and doing research for a keezer project as well and I'm interested to hear feedback on his questions.

srm775 · 05-06-2008, 06:09 PM

I happen to space my faucets 4" on center also, not because what I read, but it just looks the best.

I used 1"x6" and added a 1"x1" lip around the top of my collar for more surface area for the lid. Also, I added a 1" thick piece of foam around the inside of the collar for extra insulation. If I did it over again, I would use 2"x6" and forget about the lip and use different insulation. Also, don't mitre the corners. Use straight cuts and screw the pieces together. Once it's sanded, and painted (mine is white so it's pretty seamless) you can't tell anyway.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrewDoc_Md

I'm using 2"x8" boards for my collar, so an extra corny can fit on the hump (2 more if I put the CO2 outside). The extra height will let me put the 20# CO2 inside. 5# is enough to serve multiple cornies, but not to force carb (you'll still be refilling it pretty often just serving).

I can carb and serve about ten cornies worth on a 5lbs. tank. I would figure, roughly that you should be able to do about the same per 5lbs. of CO2.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrewDoc_Md

I bought a Ranco temp controller off ebay pretty cheaply and wired itmyself using the diagrams and step-by-step instruction found on threads on this site. All you need to buy the Ranco and an appliance extension cord to splice (and one extra little piece of wire). You can buy a pre-wired one, but it's simple to do yourself:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=26496

Me too ... easy-breezy and much cheaper. You can get a nice single stage digital controller and extension cord for about $65 as opposed to the $100 they're asking for at online HBS. Follow the links and diagrams provided and it's pretty simple. It took me about 1/2 hour to do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrewDoc_Md

Everyone recommended you get Perlick faucets if you can afford them (> $30 each). Rapids wholesale has the best price on new ones:
http://rapidswholesale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RWEC&Product_C ode=8P490&Product_Count=&Category_Code=

I bought my shanks, guages (I have two secondary regulators), "Y" splitters and check valves there and was pretty happy. From all the comparison shopping I did, they have the best price and most complete selection for what you'll need.

**Moonshae** · 05-06-2008, 06:54 PM

I think I spaced my faucets at 3" and don't have any problems. Gas line length doesn't matter, either. I think placement of the faucets relative to the CO2 tank is more aesthetic than anything; you're probably going to have to move beer lines out of the way, and since the gas lines are generally shorter, they don't really get in the way (or so I've found). I use my hump for bottled beer or lagering carboys. If space is an issue, you can move the tank outside of the kegerator anyway.

My shanks fit tightly into the holes in my collar, so I didn't put anything in there. You might want to seal it up if there's a gap. Even though cold air sinks, the whole inside will get cold and you'll lose cold through the gap. Don't run any liquid through your gas lines, nothing will live in the pure CO2 environment anyway.

**Jester369** · 05-06-2008, 06:58 PM

Mine worked out to be 4.5"but it was purely aesthetic. Unless you are trying to pour from two adjacent taps simultaneously, you just need to be able to get to the handle.

**gwood** · 05-06-2008, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by srm775

I happen to space my faucets 4" on center also, not because what I read, but it just looks the best.

I used 1"x6" and added a 1"x1" lip around the top of my collar for more surface area for the lid. Also, I added a 1" thick piece of foam around the inside of the collar for extra insulation. If I did it over again, I would use 2"x6" and forget about the lip and use different insulation. Also, don't mitre the corners. Use straight cuts and screw the pieces together. Once it's sanded, and painted (mine is white so it's pretty seamless) you can't tell anyway.

I can carb and serve about ten cornies worth on a 5lbs. tank. I would figure, roughly that you should be able to do about the same per 5lbs. of CO2.

Me too ... easy-breezy and much cheaper. You can get a nice single stage digital controller and extension cord for about $65 as opposed to the $100 they're asking for at online HBS. Follow the links and diagrams provided and it's pretty simple. It took me about 1/2 hour to do.

I bought my shanks, guages (I have two secondary regulators), "Y" splitters and check valves there and was pretty happy. From all the comparison shopping I did, they have the best price and most complete selection for what you'll need.

Great info!

BrewDoc_Md · 05-06-2008, 11:12 PM

Good info indeed, Thanks!

Although using 2" x 8"s for the collar makes it really tall (harder to transfer full kegs into), I'm glad I did. I can get 5 cornies inside (two on the hump) if the CO2 tank is outside. I think I can use the extra corny for long-term, cold-temp lagering.

I went with the 4" faucet spacing. I figured the extra space would be handy if I get some odd-shaped tap handles. Only have one so far, a little statue of the "Birth of Aphrodite" I picked up at a yard sale for $1 and stuck a 3/8" coarse T-nut in its base. Classy (yet topless!) little statue...nice! This is the time of year for yard sales, and I'm keeping a eye out for anything I can use ont he kegerator.

I'll post a photo when I get all four tap handles. Someone suggested using fancy table legs...I'll look into that, too.

**gwood** · 05-06-2008, 11:44 PM

Good point about tap handles. I was thinking that I wanted to keep all four on one side so that I could go with one drip tray and also not have to worry about bumping the taps with kegs going in and out.

Did you mount your collar to the body of the freezer or to the lid (I think this is the way Bobby did his - great vids Bobby)