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Old 02-05-2009, 07:06 PM   #81
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Someone bumped a thread from 2005, and this was one of the posts, some great info on priming sugars.

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Originally Posted by Arizona Dave View Post
Many people have been told that priming bottled conditioned beer should not be done with sucrose. Many books state that malt extract is best for priming. Be aware that malt extract will generate break material when boiled, and that the fermentation of malt extract for priming purposes will often generate a krausen/protein ring around the waterline in the bottle, just like it does in your fermenter. Simple sugars don't have this cosmetic problem and the small amount used for priming will not affect the flavor of the beer (Based upon my 15+ years of brewing).

Here are some simple basic rules for Priming :
Using Corn Sugar (Sucrose) - 2/3 cup for bottling and 1/3 cup for Kegging.
Using Cane Sugar (Sucrose)- 2/3 cup for bottling and 1/3 cup for Kegging.
Using Brown Sugar (Sucrose)- 2/3 cup for bott! ling and 1/3 cup for Kegging.
Using Maple Syrup - 1¼ cup for bottling and 5/8 cup for Kegging.
Using Molasses - 1 cup for bottling and ½ cup for Kegging.
Using Honey - 1 cup for bottling and ½ cup for Kegging.

You can prime your beer with any fermentable that you want. Any sugar: Corn Sugar, Cane Sugar, Brown Sugar, Honey, Molasses (if you can get them out of the ground), even Maple Syrup can be used for priming.

The darker sugars can contribute a subtle aftertaste (sometimes desired) and are more appropriate for heavier, darker beers.
Simple sugars, like Corn or Cane Sugar, are used most often though many brewers use dry malt extract too. Ounce for ounce, Cane Sugar generates a bit more carbon dioxide than Corn Sugar, and both pure sugars carbonate more than malt extract, so you will need to take that into account.

Honey is difficult to prime with because there is no standard for concentration.! The gravity of honey is different jar to jar. To use hone y, you will need to dilute it and measure its gravity with a hydrometer. For all sugars in general, you want to add 2-3 gravity points per gallon of beer to prime.

Remember, the above are measurements for a 5 Gallon batch. It is always best to heat up anything that you are using for priming with water. If you are doing less than 5 Gallons at a time, then here are some things to take into account.

5 Gallons will give you...
54 x 12 oz Bottles
40 x 16 oz Bottles
32 x 22 oz Bottles

So divide the number of bottles into whatever you wish to use for priming and that will give you the amount your looking for.

Bottom line: use the sugar that you feel most comfortable with. Each of us has their own favorites.
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Old 02-06-2009, 01:07 PM   #82
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I love the Mole Asses joke....

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Old 02-06-2009, 09:58 PM   #83
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Default Improved Dip Tube

Well I never have used a dip tube on my bottling bucket and haven't even thought about it until I saw this thread today. Only I didn't like the idea of a bubble of air being trapped inside the spigot, and see no way to avoid this with such a small diameter tube going into a large chamber on its way to another small tube. So, I came up with this piece of PVC elbow that is the same diameter, if not larger, than the back of the spigot, and it is threaded so it screws on easily. It sits maybe an eighth of an inch off of the bottom so I will never have to tip the bucket again! This modification costs a whole 58 cents.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/33697914@N08/3258371355/

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Old 02-06-2009, 10:56 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorTom View Post
Well I never have used a dip tube on my bottling bucket and haven't even thought about it until I saw this thread today. Only I didn't like the idea of a bubble of air being trapped inside the spigot, and see no way to avoid this with such a small diameter tube going into a large chamber on its way to another small tube. So, I came up with this piece of PVC elbow that is the same diameter, if not larger, than the back of the spigot, and it is threaded so it screws on easily. It sits maybe an eighth of an inch off of the bottom so I will never have to tip the bucket again! This modification costs a whole 58 cents.

[
That's a friggin' great idea. Last time bottling I had the bucket propped up something slipped and my favorite beer drinking glass got knocked to the floor and shattered.
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Old 02-07-2009, 12:03 AM   #85
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Awesome!!! Nice Mod...

Though honestly I still don't get a bubble or airpocket with mine...I did two batches and stared at it the whole time, and everything was fine.

But cool!!!!


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Old 02-07-2009, 12:43 PM   #86
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Love the diptube Idea, feel like a dumbass for not doing it before.

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Old 02-09-2009, 02:17 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorTom View Post
Well I never have used a dip tube on my bottling bucket and haven't even thought about it until I saw this thread today. Only I didn't like the idea of a bubble of air being trapped inside the spigot, and see no way to avoid this with such a small diameter tube going into a large chamber on its way to another small tube. So, I came up with this piece of PVC elbow that is the same diameter, if not larger, than the back of the spigot, and it is threaded so it screws on easily. It sits maybe an eighth of an inch off of the bottom so I will never have to tip the bucket again! This modification costs a whole 58 cents.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/33697914@N08/3258371355/

Elbow Attached on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

I use the same thing but I used the idea from BrianP (posted the same ting on the bottom of Page 3 of this thread). Dip tube or threaded elbow this is 10X better than using a siphon.
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:54 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USM_Eagle View Post
I use the same thing but I used the idea from BrianP (posted the same ting on the bottom of Page 3 of this thread). Dip tube or threaded elbow this is 10X better than using a siphon.
I used the threaded PVC elbow idea in my bottling last night and it worked great. The elbow was a bit too long so I did have to hacksaw off about a 1/4 inch but other than that no problems.

I have a question for anyone who cares to give their opinion on method. To sanitize my bottles I used a 5 gallon Homer bucket filled with StarSan solution and submerged as many bottles as I could at a time. I pulled them out, poured out the sanitizer and bottled on top of any bubbles that might be in there.

Over time I noticed the sanitizer getting cloudy and I understand that means the effectiveness is begin reduced. Could this end up posing a problem with the later bottles not being sanitary enough? Probably just me being nervous about my first batch but it never hurts to ask.
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Old 02-09-2009, 06:02 PM   #89
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Quote:
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Over time I noticed the sanitizer getting cloudy and I understand that means the effectiveness is begin reduced. Could this end up posing a problem with the later bottles not being sanitary enough? Probably just me being nervous about my first batch but it never hurts to ask.
You're being nervous..it's not going to loose it's ph efficacy that quicky unless your bottles where stored in a sewer and covered in crap...

But the most effective, chepest (in that you use less sanitizer) and quickest way that I have found is to use the vinator to sanitize with.
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Old 02-11-2009, 04:39 AM   #90
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Default Great!

SWMBO's brother and I just bottled two batches this past week using your tips. We did the bottling at our respective houses with our own equipment that we upgraded. In both cases we did not use the clamps you recommended and had no issues what so ever with any leakage with either bottling bucket. The future health of my back thanks you immeasurably.

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