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Old 12-06-2011, 01:10 PM   #481
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Originally Posted by tennesseean_87
Here's a question--the info in this thread states that

1. a dunkelweizen should be carbed to 3.5-4.8 volumes CO2.
2. a standard bottle can only take 3 volumes.

Is an undercarbed DW still tasty? Has anyone carbed at higher levels? I've got one in primary now and am trying to decide what to do with it (kegging not an option). Thanks!
I would go 2.5 for it and put in regular 12 oz bottles. Any higher and you will have a chance of exploding bottles. If you want to do higher use some 22 oz that some Belgians come in.

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Old 12-29-2011, 04:56 AM   #482
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Is it possible to completely remove yeast sedimentation from your bottles by transferring from the fermenter to another?

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Old 12-29-2011, 03:46 PM   #483
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Is it possible to completely remove yeast sedimentation from your bottles by transferring from the fermenter to another?
Completely? No. It's better than nothing, but without filtering, there'll be something. Of course, I'd love to have someone demonstrate otherwise!
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Old 12-29-2011, 03:50 PM   #484
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Is it possible to completely remove yeast sedimentation from your bottles by transferring from the fermenter to another?
If you're bottle conditioning beer, whether it is commercial or homebrew YOU WILL ALWAYS HAVE SOME SEDIMENT. You can't avoid it. You can reduce it greatly, but it's always going to be there.

Read this, about how I get very little sediment in my bottles.

And read this about how real beer geeks don't fear the yeast in their bottles. Only BMC drinkers do.
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Old 01-03-2012, 07:36 PM   #485
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hello people!

hope i'm at the right place for the question. i'm relatively new to both this forum and homebrewing. i'm not a complete idiot though. here's what's bothering me: my gf and i have made 3 batches so far. the first and the only successful one was some sort of improvised all grain ale. beginners luck. turned out gr8 imo. the other two went sour. one key thing that needs to be mentioned is that the first batch was cooled right after we boiled it, although due to lack of proper equipment the cooling took like 3-4 hours. the second two stayed overnight in the fridge till the temperature dropped to between 20 and 25 degrees celsius. both times we were somehow really drunk and unable to cool the wort instantly. but both times the wort was in the bioreactor and sealed. anyway. after one week in the bioreactor (we used safale yeasts, and this is safales declarative period for primary fermentation) we tasted the beer and it was GOOD. no off tastes, it wasn't sour, nothing. then I the idiot suggested before bottling that we should put more priming sugar (since the first batch was slightly undercarbonated imo) and so the whole batch was ruined. every single bottle was overcarbonated and beer gushed out of it like champagne and tasted sour. some stuff sedimented on the bottom of the bottles as well. we did some researching and thought it was an infection (my gf is a biotechnologist btw and she said that it's either that or overcarbonation, although she doesn't have much practical experience with brewing, only theoretical) so we repeated the same thing again, but this time we were even more rigid with sanitation. like ocd-rigid. and again i put cca. half a teaspon priming sugar per 1/2 liter bottle. and it happened again. sour beer gushing out of the bottles ALTHOUGH it tasted great before we bottled it and the sugar was added. any ideas? infection? overcarbonation? wort stayed overnight? i appreciate any help. many thanks in advance.

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Old 01-04-2012, 11:48 PM   #486
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nice illustrations and pics guys.. here's VIDEO of BOTTLING & KEGGING .. when done with friends.. its really fun!

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Old 01-08-2012, 10:51 AM   #487
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half a teaspon priming sugar per 1/2 liter bottle. and it happened again. sour beer gushing out of the bottles ALTHOUGH it tasted great before we bottled it and the sugar was added. any ideas? infection? overcarbonation? wort stayed overnight? i appreciate any help. many thanks in advance.
You will find the beer will be better if you can mix all the priming sugar (calculated with a priming calculator) into the beer before bottling, rather than measuring into each bottle. You can get some great variation bottle to bottle. Carb drops are okay, but raw sugar is hard to get right.
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Old 01-08-2012, 03:05 PM   #488
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Hi Sheebcha, priming sugar is normally added byboiling it for 15 mins in water to make a sanitised bulk priming solution. You must be introducing infection with your unboiled sugar
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:39 PM   #489
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I actually like using a long piece of hosing so I don't have to hold a bottle up right under the spigot. But, that's solely dependent on how your rig is setup.
I think I'm going to do it this way, too. When I bottled apfelwein, I used card drops and went straight from the better bottle into to bottles via auto-siphon, and liked moving the hose as opposed to bottles. I think it would be especially easy if you're using milk crates, etc. to just move the wand from one bottle to the next, rather than lifting the bottles out and putting them back.
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:03 PM   #490
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Well it's been said a thousand times now, but this thread was so incredibly helpful as I prepared for bottling day. I installed a $.65 3/4" PVC elbow for a dip tube, and only left 1 ounce of beer behind in the bottling bucket. I poured what was left into a shot glass to measure it. Unbelievable. And installing the wand directly to the spigot was another lifesaver. Thanks again to Revvy and everyone else who contributed. This forum is an incredible resource to those of us that are always looking for ways to improve our process.

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