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Old 01-27-2011, 08:11 PM   #11
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Does anyone suggest doing a diactyl rest after primary is done if I went with the Narziss method of pitching my yeast around 46 degrees and raising to 50 over a few days? Can I just rack to a secondary and drop from 50 to 32-34 degrees for the lagering stage then bottle once lagering is complete?



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Old 01-27-2011, 09:01 PM   #12
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Does anyone suggest doing a diactyl rest after primary is done if I went with the Narziss method of pitching my yeast around 46 degrees and raising to 50 over a few days? Can I just rack to a secondary and drop from 50 to 32-34 degrees for the lagering stage then bottle once lagering is complete?
It probably doesn't need a D-rest, but each yeast strain is different in its propensity to produce diacetyl and it also depends on the quantity of yeast pitched, yeast health/viability, etc. In any case, if you do a D-rest, don't wait until primary is done. Do the D-rest when primary fermentation is nearing completion.


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Old 01-27-2011, 10:37 PM   #13
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Great, thanks for the advice, will probably skip the D-rest since I pitched 3.5 vials of yeast.

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Old 01-27-2011, 11:42 PM   #14
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Great, thanks for the advice, will probably skip the D-rest since I pitched 3.5 vials of yeast.
Before skipping it, I suggest tasting for it.

Now, tasting for it isn't as easy as tasting for the "butter" flavor. In large amounts, diacetyl tastes like butter or buttered popcorn. But in very small amounts, it's more of a "oily" mouthfeel or a slickness on your tongue when sampling.

If you have ANY oily feeling, or any slickness in the mouthfeel, do a diacetyl rest as it will NOT get better, and will in fact get worse while lagering.
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:04 AM   #15
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Ok, will definitely give it a taste, thanks again

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Old 03-04-2011, 09:48 PM   #16
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I have some dry lager yeast (I'm not home so I
Can't check if it's nottingham). Would that work
Or should I go for the nottingham specifically?

Cheers,
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Old 03-05-2011, 02:15 AM   #17
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I have some dry lager yeast (I'm not home so I
Can't check if it's nottingham). Would that work
Or should I go for the nottingham specifically?

Cheers,
JWiC
Nottingham is not lager yeast. It's ale yeast. But if you really need to add yeast to the bottling bucket for a lager, you could use Nottingham. Just use very little (~1/4 packet per 5 gallons).
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:19 AM   #18
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I've returned home and I definitely have Nottingham which I could use.

It seems to me (as I've said in previous threads) that there is very little yeast still floatin' around in the secondary (I have very, very little sediment at the bottom of my secondary and it has now been in at 40dF for 6 weeks sitting perfectly still...).

Although it has most certainly reached FG, I thought that I may have originally underpitched given that I only used one vial of yeast and no starter.

So, please forgive my paranoia when I ask for the opinion of those more experienced than I... Do you guys honestly think there will be enough yeast in the secondary to carb it? Will adding a 1/4 (others have suggested 1/3) of additional yeast increase the threat of bottle bombs?

And, for the sake of argument, let's say there's NOT enough yeast in there as there should be. Will it still carb without the extra yeast or - heaven forbid - will it not carb properly AT ALL?

Hope this is all clear and thanks in advance for all the replies. It was fermenting for 4 weeks, lagering for 6; I most certainly do not want to mess things up now!!

Cheers,
JWiC

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Old 03-05-2011, 03:01 PM   #19
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There is still yeast in suspension in your beer. As far as yeast goes, it should carb with what's already in there. It may take a little longer to carb, but it will still carb. The amount of yeast you originally added does not directly correlate (if at all) with how much yeast is in suspension post-fermentation.

If you still want to add yeast, you only need a little bit. It doesn't have to be exact. Think of it this way... you only need maybe 2 tiny particles of dried yeast per bottle. So, a 1/4 pack per 5 gallons should be plenty. The more you add, the more sediment there will be in the bottles. That's why if you don't add any, it should still carb (maybe take a little longer) and have little sediment in the bottles.



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