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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Bottling/Kegging > Beverage Air BM23 Cleaning and Preparing a Used Kegerator
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:08 PM   #1
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Default Beverage Air BM23 Cleaning and Preparing a Used Kegerator

Hello all,

Just picked up my first kegerator off of CL. Great deal, just needs a little TLC and parts. I wanted to come to you for some help and suggestions on cleaning up rust, the galvanized walls and anything else to watch for. Below are my specific questions, but all tips are welcome!


The tap tower had this insulating sleeve. I removed it since it was nasty. Should I replace it or just leave it out? If replacing, where do I get another one?


The hole that the tap tower mounts over is pretty dirty too. Is it safe to scrape and bleach all of this?


This is the drain port. Pretty ugly but I am sure some bleach and pipe cleaner would do the trick. I'd remove it but I imagine it is sealed in place.


Look at the seams! I'm all for taking stuff apart, but what is the best way to clean up the rust here on the galvanized metal wall seams?


The hose that blows air up through the tower is gross and has what appears to be mold or mildew. Would taking apart the metal box be all that's needed to remove and clean it?


Someone drilled another hole through this and it has started to rust, as you can see. I'd like to bore out a slight larger hole to remove the silicone and rust and replace it with a stop plug. Any other suggestions?

That'll do for now. Thank you in advance for your help!

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Old 06-29-2013, 10:23 PM   #2
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I have the same one that started out with wood grain on it. I took it completely apart after having a new (used) compressor put in, ground out all of the rust in the seams, sealed the seams with calking. Once that was done I sprayed the top half a gloss white and used undercoating on the bottom half. I fixed the cancer on the outside with bondo and spray painted it with a black hammered paint. I replaced the door seals, a lot of the parts that you listed and added a stainless steel tower with a triple Perlick 525s. It works perfect now. Take your time and you will be very happy with it when your done.

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Old 06-30-2013, 12:49 AM   #3
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Thank you for the words on your experience!

Here's an update:

-Removed as much rust as I could on the bottom inside seams.
Question: What is a good sealant for inside of a metal fridge? I am assuming a low temp food grade silicone exists.

-PBW, bleached and rinsed everything inside and out, including those moldy parts you saw (cold air hose to tower).

-Wiped off fan blades and cleaned fins.

-Bought a regulator, tank, lines, connects and the Perlick 525ss arrived in the mail today.
Question: Since these are brand new parts, I am assuming that I can just connect everything up (using Teflon tape where needed) without cleaning it, correct? I plan on running about gallon of Star San through everything.

-Cleaned the tower shanks but there is some dark discolorations.
Question: Can that be cleaned or should these be replaced? Hoping that is not a concern.



Pics will come once finished!

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Old 07-27-2013, 05:21 PM   #4
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Okay we have some updates.

First and foremost, the keg is tapped and the beer is flowing perfectly.

I ordered a replacement handle, condensation drip pan fins and a key for the lock so it is completely without missing parts.

The last thing to figure out is why I am getting so much condensation around the door seal. The seal looks great, however the door looks crooked. How can I fix that? Here's a picture starting with the door, and then everything else leading up to that point.

Crooked door letting air in and causing some sweat along the edge of the seal. No idea how to fix this. Help!


Soaked the shanks and all parts in PBW


PBW, scrub, bleach, scrub. Just like new.










Walls and tubing cleaned and sanitized. Fitting was perfect.


Checking length of newly cleaned cold air tube.






Drip pan spout.


Decided to use some low temperature insulated tape to cover and line the seams. All in hopes to avoid air leaking at that point between the tower and fridge below.


Dang thing stunk. Vinegar and baking soda paste took care of that.


You'll notice I replaced the brass screws for the tower with stainless steel.




Previous owner drilled two holes. The rust and exposure is concerning.


So I slapped on some of that insulated tape and filled the holes with expanding foam.


Inexpensive but effective home made tap line cleaner.


All mounted. Looking down.


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Old 07-27-2013, 06:21 PM   #5
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You can check your seal by drying the area and closing the door on a dollar bill the seal should be tight enough to hold the bill in place snugly. I found the quickest way is turn off all the in the room with a bright light inside of the unit. If it's a small leak in the seal you can use a hair dryer to heat up the seal so the magnetic steep touches the housing then leave it cool down without disturbing for several hours. You could also just need to see if the plastic spacer is broken/missing on the bottom hinge it will keep the door from sitting high enough to seal the top.

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Old 09-10-2013, 06:02 PM   #6
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A few questions for you.

How did you clean your air tube from the fan unit, Did it come off easily without taking the face plate off?

Where does your drip line run to? Mine is set up for a floor drain. I am trying to come up with a better solution than having it run to a bucket in my bev air, because I dont have access to a drain.

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Old 12-15-2013, 02:45 PM   #7
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I bought the exact same model, and I got about the same reconditionning and upgrading plan as yours! I will add a tower with dual faucet (maybe not perlick now, but will upgrade later) and I will scrub the thing to death, replacing some tubing and screws.

Did you end up removing rust on the floor corner.. PBW is not making it for me so far for this! Any stuff or alimentary coat to suggest?

And what about the air hose lie Will319 asked? Did you removed it for cleaning or did you use a brush inside out?

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Old 01-27-2014, 08:52 PM   #8
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To answer the question about the air line that cools the draft towers; There is a sheet metal screw right above the tube on the condenser. This retains a metal wire that holds the tube to the condenser. Remove the screw and the cooling tube should come right off for you to soak/scrub or do whatever to.

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Old 02-22-2014, 02:08 AM   #9
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How many corny kegs can you fit in it?

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Old 09-23-2014, 12:48 PM   #10
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Default Drip pan for nozzle

What do you guys use for a drip pan inside the cooler? Mine looks just like yours, but I seem to be missing a pan to catch the overflow or head beer. I really don't want a bunch of beer draining into my kegerator!!

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