Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra - length of line?

Summersby said:

I really dont know why more people dont do this. The John Guest fittings are easy and brilliant. Worth their weight in gold.

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Agree. I've done it both ways. Believe me, spend a few bucks and pick up the john guest fittings. It's much easier that way.

If you're buying tubing and fittings, you can pick them up at Birdman Brewing.

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/shank-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/1-4-mfl-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/

Tubing is here http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/tubing/

Bills brew said:

20 cents...thats true, not sure why i was thinking not to put them on. i guess since the line is so hard i thought it wouldnt make much differance. I dont have a heat gun either just bring about 2 inches of water to a near boil and put the end in for about thirty seconds then stretch the line with a phillips screw driver and quickly put it on the barb. Not easy and takes some practice just keep dunking and wiggling, the line that is. Wear gloves too.

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I actually called the supplier and told me they shipped the wrong size swivel nut barbs. They finally talked me into trying it...

The first try, it took me about 30 minutes to put on one fitting. The second one, 5 or 6 minutes.

As Billsbrew states, heat some water to not quite a boil. The key is to only heat 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the line at a time. Heat, wiggle it on a little bit, heat, wiggle on a little bit, repeat until the line covers all the barbs. Just be careful how you push on the line. It will bend and kink.

Good grief. I just happened to look at how long this thread was... still some good info for new keggers

alexavery said:

Agree. I've done it both ways. Believe me, spend a few bucks and pick up the john guest fittings. It's much easier that way.

If you're buying tubing and fittings, you can pick them up at Birdman Brewing.

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/shank-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/1-4-mfl-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/

Tubing is here http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/tubing/

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I purchased mine through Birdman brewing as well. Very pleased with the purchase and will definitely buy from them again.

Summersby said:

I purchased mine through Birdman brewing as well. Very pleased with the purchase and will definitely buy from them again.

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I just don't like plastic fittings. But I guess they would be fine for this application??

Is there a difference between the standard Barrier Ultra and the Silver models of line?

I noticed the silver stated PVC free, and couldnt find that statement on the Ultra descriptions

Kjuckett1025 said:

Is there a difference between the standard Barrier Ultra and the Silver models of line?

I noticed the silver stated PVC free, and couldnt find that statement on the Ultra descriptions

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Are you referring to the ultra barrier silver tubing by EJ Beverage? If so, they are both PVC free and the Silver just has an extra antimicrobial lining.


Rev.

I just finished my setup and updating this oldie but goodie. I run 10 psi on 12 ft line, and pour is too slow...I'll probably increase my regulator to 12 psi and call it a day. I also ordered from birdman, and foolishly passed on the John guest fittings. Then I bought the wrong size oetikers in amazon

Somewhere in another thread, someone mentioned some pointy wine stoppers. I had some from a wedding taking up space in a drawer for about 15 years. I just poured boiling water over the barb and wine stopper, shoved the stopper in the tube, then quickly pushed the barb in....dipped a few times and pushed, about 3 cycles total, about 2 minutes per connection. The tail pieces were true 3/16, and are easier, but still tight enough to have confident seal without clamp. Now that I actually know the tubing, I would have got the John guest on the quick disconnect end, but stayed with 3/16 SS on the tailpiece, mainly because birdman pricing on a perlick faucet/shank/tailpiece/handle combo is very good, and it comes with the standard stainless.

Bottom line is either way works, and I'm very happy with this tubing. my experience supports the line not being so different from vinyl, but maybe my gauge is crap. I might shorten to 10 ft, my technique takes about 30 seconds on the tail piece side. A picture of the wine stopper attached...

Digging up an old thread here. I recently switched to John Guest fittings on the bev-seal ultra tubing sold on ritebrew.com, and man, why didn't I do this earlier?! For those of you considering spending $25 on a heat gun, good lord, do yourself a favor and switch to JG fittings. They literally take .5 seconds to complete a connection. No screw drivers, no clamps, no pushing hard and banging your hands up.

I went with about 8' lines, and I have foam. I should have just taken the time to do longer and cut if needed. Now I have to buy more lines and I'm going to try 12'. Just going to do one faucet first and confirm though!

With my JG fittings, I know switching the line will be a breeze.

I just wasted about 3-4 inches of line trying to get this onto barbs. Oh my god they shouldn't even sell you this stuff without those push connect fittings. I'm going to have to try to find a way to make this work because both my ball lock disconnects and my shanks have barbs

It is not perfect but it works best. https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

I'm running 24 inches on 4 taps with Perlick 650 flow control faucets @ 10-12 PSI, as well as my stout faucet @ 30 PSI with beer gas. Was running 10 feet prior to about 4 months back when I decided to try drastically shorter lines. No problems so far.

Have been running 10' lines in my garage fridge with Perlick 525s @ 10 PSI for the past few years.

John Guest fittings on all connections.

Update: I figured out a technique that worked decent. They're not on there all the way but there are no leaks so I'm satisfied for now. Heated up the end with a flame, stretched it a bit with a phillips screwdriver and then pushed it on as far as it would go. Got them all the way on the shanks but not the ball lock disconnects

You need a tool that is smooth and tapered.

SankePankey said:

+1 times 26. That's about how many barbs I've done this way. Only one leaked and I re-did it.

My multiplier ended up being about 1.1. So as per that, here are my lengths for my 7.2 cu ft freezer (not too much rise or distance):
6 PSI - 7'
7 PSI - 8'
8 PSI - 9'
9 PSI - 10'
10 PSI - 11'
11 PSI - 12' - Oatmeal Stout
12 PSI - 13'
13 PSI - 14' - Belgian PA
14 PSI - 16' - RyeIPA
15 PSI - 18' -
16 PSI - 20'
23 PSI - 30' - Berliner Weisse
30 PSI - 40' - Seltzer/Soda

It's all really about the speed. You don't have to test it with beer or wait till the beer is carbed to know. You just try for a particular speed of pour that you think is good. When I put a fresh keg of seltzer water on and charge it with gas, it still comes out at the same speed it would if it had gas in it. That gives me the verification I need. I dunno, 6 seconds per pint?

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I’m definitely keeping this

This goes against everything I’ve read here, but nothing has worked for me. I ordered a bunch more line and plan to try this.