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Old 12-11-2012, 02:15 PM   #11
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I just got off the phone with this guy and he took some measurements for me. Side to side 19", front to back 17". By the sounds of this I should be able to fit 3 snugly right? 2 against the back wall and one in the center if I trim the inner door panel?

I'm hoping this is still available in a week when I get home to look closer!

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Old 12-11-2012, 05:22 PM   #12
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I just got off the phone with this guy and he took some measurements for me. Side to side 19", front to back 17". By the sounds of this I should be able to fit 3 snugly right? 2 against the back wall and one in the center if I trim the inner door panel?

I'm hoping this is still available in a week when I get home to look closer!
Yes...but account for the door extending into the fridge as it does...just sayin be sure you really have 17". I use tall 1/4 sanke kegs and don't use my antique fridge cause it is so small FWIW. Only fits one
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:29 PM   #13
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Also there is the question of cost to run for electricity, as well as the insulation seal for the door.

Speaking of which. With the beautifully clean one above, did you replace the door seals? If so what did you use? I have an old 1970's brown ugly one that is built in under my basement steps that I think could use a slightly better seal on.

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Old 12-11-2012, 05:35 PM   #14
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From everything I've seen or read from people that have converted these fridges (both on HBT or elsewhere), between the heavy steel bodies, new insulation and seals, and the fact that the old refrigerants were more thermally efficient than new, these do an excellent job of cooling, and won't run that often.

I haven't started any work yet on my 1950 Westinghouse, so it's kind of an overflow fridge at this point. I have it set on the lowest possible setting (just this side of off), and even now it only runs for a minute or two per hour and keeps it a chilly 38 degrees inside.

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Old 12-11-2012, 06:30 PM   #15
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I must admit though that my old one is quiet as heck (I didn't think it even worked when I first plugged it back in because I couldnt hear it) and gets cold. The seal just appears to be slipping. Also there is the question of whether or not the insulation settles, and rust damage. Just make sure you look it over well and make sure it cools. Also, must be really fun to move.

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Old 12-11-2012, 11:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilserbrewer

Yes...but account for the door extending into the fridge as it does...just sayin be sure you really have 17". I use tall 1/4 sanke kegs and don't use my antique fridge cause it is so small FWIW. Only fits one
Thanks! I'm willing to hack the inside of the door
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:46 PM   #17
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Anyone wanna put 3 ball locks together in a triangle shape and measure?

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Old 12-12-2012, 08:37 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by jlb307 View Post
From everything I've seen or read from people that have converted these fridges (both on HBT or elsewhere), between the heavy steel bodies, new insulation and seals, and the fact that the old refrigerants were more thermally efficient than new, these do an excellent job of cooling, and won't run that often.

I haven't started any work yet on my 1950 Westinghouse, so it's kind of an overflow fridge at this point. I have it set on the lowest possible setting (just this side of off), and even now it only runs for a minute or two per hour and keeps it a chilly 38 degrees inside.
Yes mine is the same. I have it a HAIR about "defrost" and mines its pretty at 36 degrees. If I budge it a hair more, it tracks at 33 degrees and if I put it at "1" out of 10 it freezes everything in the fridge.

Mine runs about 2-5 mins per hour...less if I put a bunch of thermal mass in it like three kegs...

I haven't noticed much electricity drain at all and I didn't change any seals or anything....
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:29 PM   #19
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Anyone wanna put 3 ball locks together in a triangle shape and measure?
Just because I am feeling nice and too lazy to tell you to get the dimensions and do the math or use cardboard cutouts, 3 ball lock 2 handle rubber top and bottom kegs take up a 16X17.5 inch footprint using my kegs in a configuration like bowling pins (back two side by side touching and front one in between). The handles appear a tad oval though so this may be a little off. You can make it shallower if you spread the side by side ones out and move the front one back. What are the dimensions you are trying to fill. I can see what you can fit
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrunkleJon

Just because I am feeling nice and too lazy to tell you to get the dimensions and do the math or use cardboard cutouts, 3 ball lock 2 handle rubber top and bottom kegs take up a 16X17.5 inch footprint using my kegs in a configuration like bowling pins (back two side by side touching and front one in between). The handles appear a tad oval though so this may be a little off. You can make it shallower if you spread the side by side ones out and move the front one back. What are the dimensions you are trying to fill. I can see what you can fit
19" wide x 17" deep.
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