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09-20-2012, 07:23 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Nazareth, IL
Posts: 4
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is there a proven method of not to get Rhino farts in cider
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I always get rhino farts in cider, it usually starts 1.5 month after the start of fermentation, and usually disappears in 3-4 moths after it first appeared.
Last year, the smell didn't disappear.
I tried to switch between white wine yeasts but it didn't help.
I usually do first racking after 3-5 weeks
I used mainly granny smith apples and mix with other kinds accoding to sugar and ph levels.
I add yeast neutriants
My question is there a proven way that will prevent this phase of rhino farts?
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09-20-2012, 09:26 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: portland, oregon
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Maybe you could provide a little more info on your cider process - sugars, exact yeast strains, OG, FG, etc. Also, gaseous smells are natural byproduct of yeasties making love to sugars, so it's gonna happen either way I think. Two things you can do to maybe help 'lesson' the potency of these so-called rhino farts are:
1. Using correct yeast.
2. Fermenting at correct temps for the strain of yeast pitched. Not to warm or cold, etc.
3. Make a yeast starter so the yeast is not stressed during the beginning.
Like you mentioned, aging will usually remove off smells over time, but I think you could also degas a finished cider... though I have never done it. Anyone think that would help remove off smells after fermentation?
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09-20-2012, 11:23 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alchemedes
Maybe you could provide a little more info on your cider process - sugars, exact yeast strains, OG, FG, etc. Also, gaseous smells are natural byproduct of yeasties making love to sugars, so it's gonna happen either way I think. Two things you can do to maybe help 'lesson' the potency of these so-called rhino farts are:
1. Using correct yeast.
2. Fermenting at correct temps for the strain of yeast pitched. Not to warm or cold, etc.
3. Make a yeast starter so the yeast is not stressed during the beginning.
Like you mentioned, aging will usually remove off smells over time, but I think you could also degas a finished cider... though I have never done it. Anyone think that would help remove off smells after fermentation?
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Good advice. The only things I can add would be to use an ale yeast instead of a wine yeast, and use yeast nutrient/energizer/DAP. I've had very little odor, even when using Montrachet yeast, which is known for producing odors in apple juice/cider. Also superior primary areation (post campden & pre-yeast pitch) will help quite a bit.
Regards, GF.
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09-20-2012, 12:10 PM
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#4
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Montgomery, Alabama
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I agree with Gratus, you should try it with an ale yeast. I started using safbrew yeast and am very pleased with the results. I still get a good 10.5% to 11% alcohol and am bottled or kegged in about 5 weeks. When doing any apple wines there will be period of yeasty smells but usually the rotten egg smell is a sign of stressed yeast.
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09-20-2012, 12:48 PM
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#5
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Frau Administrator
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I've heard about the famous rhino farts, but never once experienced it. I've been making wine/mead/cider for years.
I always use yeast nutrient, aerate the must, provide proper temperatures, and stir the cider for the first few days.
I make apple wine and crabapple wine often- yearly- in a large batch. Never an odor.
I ferment in primary for 5-7 days, then rack to secondary and airlock.
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10-29-2012, 01:53 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Oct 2012
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I freaked out today when day 3 of my first graff fermentation started to go all rhino on me. Quick internet research led me to believe the yeasties didn't have enough nitrogen. At that point I realized I only put in 1/4 teaspoons vs the recommended 1/2 teaspoon of Wyeast Yeast Nutrient. I added the extra 1/4 teaspoon of yeast nutrient (boiled and cooled in some water first), swirled the carboy, and within 2 hours the sulfur smell went away and the yeasts went thru another vigorous round of fermentation--bubbling out the top again.
It's my first time at cider, but for me I think this solved the problem.
Below is the link that helped me figure this out:
http://www.grapestompers.com/hydrogen_sulfide.aspx
The article also mentions the wisdom of adding the nutrient dosage in 3 different phases, so I may do that intentionally next time before the rhinos charge. Hope this posts helps!
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10-29-2012, 02:01 AM
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#7
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Location: Georgia
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