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oldf150 02-11-2013 10:47 PM

priming and bottling question
 
I have a 2 gallon batch of apple cider, in the primary 10 days. It is simply Tree Top apple juice and Lalvin D47 yeast. It had vigorous bubbling for 5 or 6 days, and now has tapered off to none at all. I am ready to bottle it, and want it dry and fizzy. So here is my question: Can I just add 1.5 oz dextrose, bottle and wait for carbonation? Other suggestions?

LeBreton 02-11-2013 11:17 PM

Pretty much! But take a hydrometer reading to be sure it's completely done fermenting before bottling, if the gravity is constant over the course of a few days, you're good to go. Fermentation rarely just stops in my experience, but slowly peters out, leaving the potential for bottle bombs.

oldf150 02-11-2013 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeBreton (Post 4892475)
Pretty much! But take a hydrometer reading to be sure it's completely done fermenting before bottling, if the gravity is constant over the course of a few days, you're good to go. Fermentation rarely just stops in my experience, but slowly peters out, leaving the potential for bottle bombs.

Thanks! I was thinking about trying the hot water pasteurization on the sticky above, opening a bottle every day or two until I get the right fizz, then heating it in water. Thanks again!!

michael_mus 02-11-2013 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldf150 (Post 4892494)
Thanks! I was thinking about trying the hot water pasteurization on the sticky above, opening a bottle every day or two until I get the right fizz, then heating it in water. Thanks again!!

I've read the sticky but still don't get the requirement of pasteurizing it once it's carbed.

What's the difference vs. bottling beer?

LeBreton 02-12-2013 12:25 AM

It's only a requirement if you want a cider with some residual sugar, for a dry cider, you can just prime and bottle like a beer, who's complex sugars are undigested by yeast and therefor leave beer naturally sweet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pappers_ (Post 2245901)
Why pasteurize? Because at this point, you have a bottle of sparkling cider, with some residual fruit sugar left and yeast that is still working. If you just leave it be, you will likely end up with shrapnel rather than delicious sparkling cider. By gently heating the bottles, you will finish-off our yeast friends - they've done their job, they've performed admirably, but its time to say goodbye.t


oldf150 02-12-2013 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeBreton (Post 4892727)
It's only a requirement if you want a cider with some residual sugar, for a dry cider, you can just prime and bottle like a beer, who's complex sugars are undigested by yeast and therefor leave beer naturally sweet.

Thanks LeB. That was my reasoning too.

michael_mus 02-12-2013 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeBreton
It's only a requirement if you want a cider with some residual sugar, for a dry cider, you can just prime and bottle like a beer, who's complex sugars are undigested by yeast and therefor leave beer naturally sweet.

Thanks, that makes good sense. Pasteurize for a sweet cider, don't for a dry one.

Schott703 02-12-2013 10:36 AM

If you pasteaurize in bottles 170 water bath, turn off the burner, add the bottles. Remove after 10 min. Bottle temp internal will have achieved 145 + or - The thread that said 190 left me with bombs every time on lightly carbonated bottles

MarkKF 02-12-2013 02:48 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Bottling day. Two cases primed Pom-apple cider.

oldf150 02-12-2013 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schott703 (Post 4893994)
If you pasteaurize in bottles 170 water bath, turn off the burner, add the bottles. Remove after 10 min. Bottle temp internal will have achieved 145 + or - The thread that said 190 left me with bombs every time on lightly carbonated bottles

OK. 170* it is.


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