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**kegtoe** · 08-16-2010, 06:36 AM

I have made plenty of batches of homebrew ~30 brews. Started all grain about 2 months ago, partial matches 4 months ago extracts before then.

Anyway, i want to try a cider. I have 5 apple trees in the back yard so eventualy i might squeeze my own apples. However, i see a lot of videos on youtube for hard apple cider that use apple juice.

What i was thinking is using store bought cider and mayber store bought juice with a white labs yeast using my homebrew equipment.

Anyone have ideas or suggestions for me??

**oldmate** · 08-16-2010, 07:41 AM

Don't use any juices with preservatives in them, don't boil the juice, put some pectinase in before pitching and wait a few months to drink the bulk of it (you won't regret it).

Goodluck!

Edcculus · 08-16-2010, 11:12 AM

I've liked all of the ciders I did with fresh juice (either from a cider mill or apple "cider" from the store") much better than the ones with Motts, Treetop etc. Like Oldmate said, if you use fresh juice, make sure to use pectinase since the pasteurization process usually sets some pectin haze.

For your fist attempt, I'd advise not to add extra sugar or anything else. I see a lot of people who post "I made my first cider with 5 gallons of juice, 4lbs of sugar, cloves, cinnamon, agave nectar, honey, blueberries, cranberry juice, orange zest, turbo yeast and the kitchen sink. What went wrong?" Cider without sugar added is done quicker and needs less aging before it tastes good. Also, avoid champagne yeasts. I've never really tried wine yeasts, but really like the lower attenuating ale yeasts. They tend not to rip straight through the cider. That way, you can choose when you want to stop fermentation (via kegging or Pappers bottle pasteurization method) to leave some residual sugars and a good apple flavor/aroma.

**kegtoe** · 08-16-2010, 02:16 PM

i was thinking of buying the wyeast cider smack pack or white labs vial but it sounds like those two rip through the sugars as well. YOu would just use a regular beer ale yeast to not attenuate so much?

Edcculus · 08-16-2010, 03:51 PM

Yea, from what I've experienced, the lower attenuating ale yeasts ferment a little slower and give you more control. Fermenting any yeast at cooler temperatures will give you the same thing though. If you have a fermentation fridge, ferment on the lower side of the yeast you plan on using.

**MeadWitch** · 08-16-2010, 09:19 PM

Pappers responded with a great post on "Cider House rules". You should read it. It is a start to finish post on making cider, bottling it and pasteurization. As soon as the weather breaks here (102 degrees), I will be starting a batch for Yule gifts. It will be my first batch and I think simplicity is the key until you really learn what you want from a cider, mead or beer. I agree with Edcculus, I read so many posts from newbies throwing everything at once into their first batch and then are disappointed with the results. Keep it small, keep it simple until you get your groove on.