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Old 07-09-2012, 05:45 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by MW66
I live in western NY, just east of Buffalo, and this is my spray regimen. I used to go with an all organic schedule, but it was never to my satisfaction and I got lots of pests and borers. Since I switched over, it has been like night and day. The dates are approximate and may fluctuate from year to year, especially determined by your own location. I have a 4 gallon sprayer, so that is why you'll see my quantities listed. I'm now at maximum capacity for my backpack sprayer (14 trees) and I'll soon have to upgrade. Last year I also tried the big red sticky balls that you attach to the tree, but it appears that I do not have an apple fly maggot issue, so this year I have discontinued their use. Always use Personal Protection Equipment and follow your state and local laws regarding chemicals. That's my disclaimer.

1. First Spray: April 12 – April 20. ½” green tip.
Oil and Eagle 20

2. Second Spray: May 8 – May 18. After last flowering
apples have dropped their petals.
Imidan, Captan, Eagle 20

3. Third Spray (about 2 weeks after 2nd spray): May 18 – June 2.
Imidan, Captan, Eagle 20

4. Fourth Spray: July 4th - 9th (Japanese Beetles)
Spectracide Triazicide

Imidan - Insecticide. 4 TBSP per 4 gallons.

Eagle 20 - Fungicide. 1/2 OZ per 4 gallons.

Captan - Fungicide. 12 TBSP per 4 gallons.

Spectracide - Insecticide 12 TBSP per 4 gallons
This is great to know thanks for posting your schedule. Do you buy these chemicals online? I think my sprayer is only 1 gallon so I'll have to quarter your instructions.
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:34 PM   #22
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I bought mine off ebay from a seller titled: sunshinehope. The oil and Spectracide Triazicide you can get from Lowe's or HD.

Keep them dry, sealed, and cool and it will last many years.

As far as your sprayer is concerened, it may be okay for a while, but two of the chemicals are wettable powders. I have a backpack sprayer with a diaphragm pump which is made for wettable powders. Give your gallon sprayer a try and see how it does, but it may clog. Also, I gown up completely with overalls, goggles, and a respirator just to be extra safe. Plus, I now have a little one running around and I don't want to take any chances. Try it next spring and shoot me a message with your results. Make sure you let the petals from the blooms drop so you don't hurt the bees while pollinating. Fruit trees are a lot of work, but I'll bet that you will see a big difference if you follow the schedule. Good luck.

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Old 07-10-2012, 12:43 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by inexplorata View Post
Just noticed this; we have (what I'm pretty sure is) a big red delicious tree that seems to produce exceptionally well about every other year, and sits with one or two apples on the off years. It's certainly the tree, not the frost or bees; neighbors have one just like it that does the same, but two other varieties that are producing this year.
This is called biennial bearing, a big crop followed by a small crop when the tree takes a year to rest. Orchards thin the crop to stop this happening, once the pattern gets established it will keep happening. A frost can be good in a heavy year to thin the crop and get a better pattern established. You need to make enough cider in the good year to carry you through.
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