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Old 02-07-2013, 03:35 PM   #41
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Wow!!! What a wealth of knowledge. Thanks

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Old 03-24-2013, 06:07 PM   #42
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If ancients did not separate the honey from the comb then it is likely that they were inadvertently using nutrients as bee pollen is fairly nutrient dense.

Thanks, Hightest this thread is awesome. I will make a couple gallons in your honor.

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Old 05-22-2013, 08:38 AM   #43
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Fantastic resource! Thanks Hightest
I have one mead going and more to come soon
-Joel

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Old 06-15-2013, 05:13 PM   #44
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Hi, great info here.. thx!!

I have two questions:

1) I read Ken Schramm "Master Mead" and it´s the very same concept that the S.N.Addition but with some different values and timings, did you read it? You came out with that quantities and times of addition after reading that article or for pure self-experience, test/error method?

2) I´m having troubles to getting DAP, but I can get some "Triple 15" wich has: N 15% / Y 15% & K 15%, instead of the N 18% / Y 20% (46%) & K 0% of the DAP, can I use this instead of DAP for SN Addition? In the Ken Schramm article he says that he adds Food grade potassium hydroxide or potassium bitartrate or potassium phosphate. My concern is that it is a plant fertilizer and I don´t know if it´s safe to humans to drink it :/

BTW, no one used Bee Pollen as a yeast nutrient?

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Old 07-05-2013, 01:18 AM   #45
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I'm new to brewing in general and I've started a couple of recipes in glass cider jugs to see what I like and when I find somethings I like I'll get five gallon carboys and do larger batches.
Anyway, I did Grandma's Liquid Apple Pie and made two large noob mistakes. First I miscalculated how long the must would take to cool down ( I didn't even think at the time to put it in a sink of cold water, d'oh) and I rehydrated my yeast too early. When I saw I was going to seriously shoot past the 20 minute mark I gave it a tiny pinch of white sugar so it wouldn't starve to death. Two hours later I made the second mistake and pitched the yeast when the jug was still warm to the touch, likely about a 100F. Fermentation took off like crazy and was mostly slowed to nothing in 4 days.
Not wanting to judge the recipe on this shoddy attempt I did another one week later and did everything correct. Oh I used EC1118 yeast for both. It fermented almost exactly the same, fermentation came up fast and had slowed to a crawl in 4 days but this time it cleared right up. I checked the OG on the second one and it was 1.090 and when I racked the two of them a week later they were both at 1.000. I gave them both a taste from the testing vessel and they were both OK nothing seemed off.
Now the first attempt is still cloudy and the airlock has sucked down tight, what does that mean? Will the airlock eventually suck down on all my jugs or is something wrong with that one?

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Old 07-13-2013, 07:45 AM   #46
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I wish i could see the links with my smart phone but the format doesn't work

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Old 12-16-2013, 06:40 PM   #47
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Default Updated SNA Basic Mead Documents

Although I did not update the essence of these documents I did find a few areas a bit confusing here is what I cam up with.

Hightest SNA Basic Mead Recipe

What do you think?

The biggest change was the addition of the Nutrient Addition formulas right in the recipe.

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Old 12-27-2013, 01:16 PM   #48
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I started my honey wine on December 24th, I used 3 1/2 lbs of clover honey 1 tsp DAP 1/4 tsp of citric acid and lavlin k1v1116, the fermentation process has progressed nicely what is the optimal temperature for the mead to stay at during this primary fermentation?

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Old 04-02-2014, 10:50 AM   #49
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Default convert measures

can anybody convert American measures in European measures?

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Old 04-02-2014, 12:46 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delligio View Post
can anybody convert American measures in European measures?

Google is great for this. You can ask google "convert 3.5 pounds to kg" and it will give you the answer. Works for ounces to grams too (for the record, 1 ounce is 28 grams and 1kg is 2.2lb)


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