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Old 07-27-2007, 03:29 PM   #11
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EC1118. My D47 is taking FOREVER to clear. It has become a real PITA.

The EC1118 fermented 13.5# down to 1.011 in a little over 2 months. Delicious.
It looked like it was taking forever, but I suspect it was just outgassing Co2. Once racked the 2nd time it stopped, and didn't drop any more sediment.

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Old 07-27-2007, 04:37 PM   #12
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Thanks all for the info. I got to absorb the recommendations and go from there. If it helps anyone in providing additional guidance on yeast I'm going to take one of your recommendations and go to the 15# of honey that is in that kit.

Not ever making wine/mead this is interesting stuff. Adding more honey later, tweeking during the ferment process, killing the yeast when you want it to stop. Makes much better sense to me how you can fine tune the mead.

I'm sure I'll have more questions down the road. I appreciate it!

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Old 07-27-2007, 05:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david_42
Never thought about burning the needles off (UA MBA 1981). The few times I messed with them (jelly), I crushed everything and pressed out the juice. Then filtered it to get the rest of the needles out.
It's an old campfire trick.
I've eaten them on the trail quite a bit.

Prickly Pear are a good barometer for bear activity. Recent partially eaten fruits are a sign to be on the look out.

Believe it or not The Four Peaks wilderness has one of the highest concentration of black bears in the country... an easy trip from PHX.

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Old 08-01-2007, 02:48 PM   #14
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I'm going to give this a go this afternoon with 15# Mesquite honey per that kit. I decided to use the Lalvin ICV D-47 per NurseNan and after reading about the yeast and that my LHBS has it in stock. If it needs a kick, it'll get one if necessary. A couple questions/comments:

I am going to do the 2h boil of the fruit per Papazian recipe. However, I'm curious if I should do a 15 min boil of the honey per his recipe or do the 180 pasturize? Sounds like this is an on-going debate...

I don't have my recipe book handy but I know I'll be topping it off with some cold water as well (I think about 2g?) & pitching at 75 or so after I cool it in my chest freezer. I'll assume the instructions in the kit will tell me how & when to use the nutrients, yeast prep etc.

Oxygenating - I have a pure O2 system. Use it just like my wort?

fermenter - should I just go with a 5g carboy or use one of my 6g ones? I don't know what sort of foam/krausen may occur...

Anything else to add for the mead noob with the process appreciated .

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Old 08-01-2007, 03:19 PM   #15
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Default A little late But

Its a little late as it seems you have already got things set to go but I thought since you were questioning using 20# of honey in this recipe I would give you a little information that I learned during a group brew.

We made a traditional mead with 20# of honey, I used 71-B yeast, followed the SNA (staggered nutrient addition). It ended up at FG 1.012 so its a medium sweet mead. The old hands who were running the group brew recommended using two packs of yeast for the 5.6 Gallon recipe because of the initial high starting gravity of 1.133. It went like gang busters and we never had a problem with it. Its sitting quietly in the tertiary bulk aging now. We also had Nurse Nans vanilla mead going at the same time using EC-1118 yeast with 15# of honey and it also worked out great for us.

The thing is though dont be afraid to go big with your honey it worked out great for us. I dont think I would use the D-47 using 20# honey though as a few guys who did had very slow ferments and a few other problems along the way. BTW the vanilla using EC-1118 finished a bit dry but taste great, its a great yeast that will eat through alot of honey. I know you have already decided on using 15# of honey for this mead but dont rule out more for mead yet to come. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your mead as much as we have ours.

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Old 08-01-2007, 03:39 PM   #16
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Thanks for the feedback and continued mead education redhawke.

Found this site in my endeavor for knowledge on SNA. Person seems to know his mead. Thought I'd share:

http://home.comcast.net/~mzapx1/

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Old 08-01-2007, 04:28 PM   #17
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Just to let you know, I checked my blueberry mead last night. The airlock had came to a halt for the last 2 days. The gravity was 996. I added 1.5 lbs honey and within 15 minutes it was bubbling about every 4 to 5 seconds. Started with 13lbs and will end with around 18lbs for some sweetness.

Thought this might help when your in the secondary a couple weeks and it slows down!

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Old 08-01-2007, 04:33 PM   #18
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I did the 2 hrs pear boil and 15 for the honey.

I only used 10 lbs, not 20 per the recipe. You really want to skim all the while to remove the "wax and wings", etc.

I also use Pasteur Red yeast. Why? I don't recall why.

For the Barkshack Ginger mead I used the Lalvin D-47.

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Old 08-01-2007, 07:50 PM   #19
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DesertBrew,
LOL, HightTest is the leader of our traditional group brew and if you go back to his page you can see the tab, "Traditional 4-21-07". Click on that link and you can see for yourself a spreadsheet of how all the different yeast did using 20# of honey. The results were a bit varied but still worth reading to give you a really good look at how the fermentations progressed with I think 5 different yeast and different conditions relating to abient air temp. You cant really draw any scientific conclusions because of so many variables but it does give you a good general overview of the entire process.
BTW Yes, I would have to agree HT knows his mead........Have fun and let us know how it comes out.
Oh yeah, I really like your avatar, Fingers was a treat to see on the mound when I was a kid.

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Old 08-02-2007, 03:07 AM   #20
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On the way home from work the HBS says they don't have any mesquite honey currently . So he tells me of the wholeseller called SW Bee Supply where he gets his from. About 5 miles away and it was $2.25 a lb. Nice! If I make mead in the future which is probable 1-2 times a year, I now know where to go for bulk honey.

Missed making it today (forgot to thaw the fruit) but all set for tomorrow.

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