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Old 02-15-2011, 07:34 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by 1Brotherbill View Post
Can Nottingham Yeast work with making a good mead. Or should I go out and get a wine yeast?
It can make a very nice mead and will usually keep the ABV around 12% (though I have seen it go to 13-14%). With a more modest ABV, it usually makes it drinkable fairly quickly, especially if you manage the fermentation well and keep the temp cool.

71B makes excellent, ready-to-drink-quickly meads, and is particularly good for berry batches. It tends to be very "estery", and if you want to just let the honey shine, sometimes other yeast may serve better. It just depends on what you want.

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Old 05-16-2011, 01:24 AM   #12
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Well... I gave it a try for a gallon to top up my JAOM 5-gallon batch that was made with D47....

Can you say stuck city! Even with a staged nutrient addition... No more Nottingham for things that are going to run higher than 8%..... 3 months later - very cloudy, stuck at about 1.08, and very soft, fluffy lees that would just never lay down.... Look at that bottle funny and the lees float up and out....

It makes great cider and beer.. but it's maybe not the best for other things....

Thanks

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Old 05-17-2011, 09:21 AM   #13
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Yeah beer yeast isn't good for anything over 8% ABV, the best mead yeasts are D47 & 71B

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Old 05-17-2011, 12:39 PM   #14
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[/LEFT]Master;2929641]Yeah beer yeast isn't good for anything over 8% ABV, the best mead yeasts are D47 & 71B
Well I can't say about beer yeast, I don't make beers.

That said, in descending order, D21, K1V-1116, 71B..... I'm not a big fan of sweet, but medium at about a final gravity of 1.010 is good to me......
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:25 PM   #15
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So, thought I would find someplace appropriate to post this. I did a mead experiment with dry Nottingham Ale yeast and I wanted to share the results with you.

I had some honey that I purchased at the LHBS and forgot about in my wetbar area of the house. When I found it it had crystallized and become like a single solid mass. Trying to figure out what to do with it I decided to make a basic "show" mead with some dry Nottingham Ale yeast. Figuring out how much water to add by some dubious calculations, I made a starter for the yeast with DME and grew them up on the stir plate.

Bottom line is that with a proper pitching rate and controlling/driving the fermentation through temperature and mineral supplements, I got some of the best mead I have ever made from this Nottingham Ale yeast. If my guess is accurate, the trick is to pitch enough healthy yeast and to drive the fermentation by starting low (62F) and ratcheting that temperature up as fermentation slows down. I'm now waiting for it to clear before bottling.

Just as an aside, I made a gallon of mead with WLP002 that I had rinsed from a previous batch of beer and that mead made it to the second round at Dixie Cup. Just FYI.

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Old 06-09-2011, 11:50 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Brew_Master
Yeah beer yeast isn't good for anything over 8% ABV, the best mead yeasts are D47 & 71B
Kind of depends on the yeast...there are plenty of "beer yeasts" that will ferment well into double digits.
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:26 AM   #17
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Indeed, I used s-04 on my cyser and had to cold crash it at 15%, I wasn't really expecting it to go that far either but it just kept going!

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Old 06-13-2011, 04:56 AM   #18
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3 Dog might be right about pitching. I tried this and my end product is sweet. Also, fermentation takes about forever and a day to finish out. So in the future if I do this again. I would back off on the fermentables and try and pitch as much live yeast as possible. Probably would have been easier to just go to the store and get some wine yeast. Well you live and you learn.

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Old 06-13-2011, 06:48 PM   #19
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I guess one of the other points I would like to highlight is that prior to the understanding of micro-biology folks made Mead by leaving it out or using a fermenting stir-stick. So, using whatever yeast was around would have been common. I like the flavor and body produced by Nottingham yeast better than wine yeast. You just need to pay more attention to the fermentation.

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Old 06-26-2011, 07:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malkore View Post
1 - use Narbonne 71-B yeast strain
2 - use staggered nutrient additions
3 - degas with a drill mounted whip 3 times a day for the first week of primary

Do this, and you can have a stellar mead that's drinkable 2 months after the pitch date, not 2 years. Items 2 and 3 above prevent yeast stress, which prevents the off-flavors that need to mellow for 12+ months.

I kid you not, the three above items are game changers, from someone who made his first mead at 17 with bread yeast, and is finally not an idiot after 16 years of mead making
Malkore, I had a frew questions on this. Does it have to be 71-B for the yeast for this to work? Do you think other yeasts might work as well, like Cote des blanc, or D-45? Also, what do you think of doing this with a melomel?
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