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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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SO I am about to get the mead kit from AHB and there is an opton for double pitching yeast. I am going with the dry champagne yeast. I know when making beer I don't need to double pitch dry yeast but sometimes need to double pitch liquid yeast if i don't make a starter. SHould I double pitch dry yeast when making mead? Or is this option just for liquid yeast? Thanks
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Primary 1-This Bud's for you Primary 2- Cream Ale Secondary 1- Strong Scotch Ale Secondary 2- empty Bottled/Kegged- Centinneal Blonde, Apfelwein Up Next- MyCastle (N.English Brown Ale), Hooch Pale Ale Thinking about: Tripple Bock, Chocolate Stout, open to suggestions "Every beer is a good beer if I can taste the brewer's intent" -Jim Koch Is this guy serious??: |
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#2 (permalink) |
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The OG!
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It IS an option, but not a necessity. If you have proper nutrients, you should be fine, and with staggered Nutrient Additions, you'll be better than fine. If it makes you feel better, the extra $1.58 for an extra pack of yeast is nice insurance, and NOT going to hurt a thing!
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Seriously. I'm here for BEER It's Not The Size Of Your Rig That Counts....It's How Often You Use It. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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__________________
Primary 1-This Bud's for you Primary 2- Cream Ale Secondary 1- Strong Scotch Ale Secondary 2- empty Bottled/Kegged- Centinneal Blonde, Apfelwein Up Next- MyCastle (N.English Brown Ale), Hooch Pale Ale Thinking about: Tripple Bock, Chocolate Stout, open to suggestions "Every beer is a good beer if I can taste the brewer's intent" -Jim Koch Is this guy serious??: |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I think for a 5gal batch you should pitch two packets of yeast. It is not necessary but I think the pitching rate is much better when using 2 packets. Remember that wine yeast comes in 5g packets not the 11g packets that beer yeast comes in. So the cell count is already much lower and you are usually pitching them into a very high gravity must compared to beer worts.
Also be sure to look up the instructions on using GoFerm for rehydration and the staggered nutrient additions. I think both techniques really help to produce better results. Craig
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Primary - Flanders Red, Sweet Mead, Dry Mead Secondary - Cyser, Pumpkin Pie Mead, 09-09-09 Barleywine, Black Raspberry Mead Conditioning - Roggenbier, Oatmeal Stout, Blueberry cyser, Cran Cyser, Gruit experiments, traditional mead Drinking - Mild, Chinook IPA, Fresh Hop IPA, Scottish 80/-, Pinot Noir Pymet, Grape Braggot, 08.08.08 RIS, mezza luna red Up Next - |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Bridgeton, NJ
Posts: 218
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I would tend to agree. When my mead OG is in the 1.100-1.130 range I'll use 10g of dry yeast. From 1.130-1.150 - 15g, and above that 20g... FWIW, I rarely (one time) make a mead whose OG is below 1.100.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Craig
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Primary - Flanders Red, Sweet Mead, Dry Mead Secondary - Cyser, Pumpkin Pie Mead, 09-09-09 Barleywine, Black Raspberry Mead Conditioning - Roggenbier, Oatmeal Stout, Blueberry cyser, Cran Cyser, Gruit experiments, traditional mead Drinking - Mild, Chinook IPA, Fresh Hop IPA, Scottish 80/-, Pinot Noir Pymet, Grape Braggot, 08.08.08 RIS, mezza luna red Up Next - |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 69
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Thanks CB!
Id like to make a high alcohol dessert Mead. Ive heard you may need to add more honey at a certain stage....would this be at the first racking or later perhaps im missing a step all together? |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 115
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I agree as well with CB. I do use only 1 packet of 5g yeast for my 1 gallon batches..but the ones that are 5 gallons I use at least 2....and for the Blueberry Melomel that I started a number of weeks back..I actually pitched 3 packets just to be sure of a good, solid start.
Dan
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5 gal primary - EdWort's Apfelwein 5 gal primary - Blueberry Melomel Primary = Raspberry Mead Primary = JAOM all gone = 3 week quick mead |
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