First Mead. Fermentation Question

**scottyg354** · 01-30-2012, 02:37 AM

Brewed a Graff and a Mead on Saturday. Graff is bubbling nicely with some Krausen. Question is my mead isn't bubbling and there is no Krausen. I'm not to sure how Fermentation works with mead. My recipe is pretty basic and is as follows:

3 Gallon Batch
9 lbs Clover Honey
Whirfloc Tablet when disolving honey
White Labs Sweet Mead Yeast

I heated 1 gallon of the water to about 120-130 degrees, warm enough to dissolve the honey. I mixed well, aerated and brought it down to about 75-80 degrees and pitched the yeast. You guys see anything wrong here? Did I miss someting, or should I let it go? Any suggestions on what I could try to get it moving.

Bugeaud · 01-30-2012, 03:13 AM

Ingredients look good, and you shouldn't be in the least worried lest it goes past the three day mark, mead often takes 24 hours or longer to kick in, but things to consider is that lack of aeration, lack of nutrition, and low PH can all lead to slow and sluggish fermentation.

**scottyg354** · 01-30-2012, 03:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugeaud

Ingredients look good, and you shouldn't be in the least worried lest it goes past the three day mark, mead often takes 24 hours or longer to kick in, but things to consider is that lack of aeration, lack of nutrition, and low PH can all lead to slow and sluggish fermentation.

I was thinking about getting some nutrient to toss in tommorow. I aerated the **** out of it. Any type of acid that won't impart any type of flavor to it?

Bugeaud · 01-30-2012, 04:16 AM

Acid will always impart some flavour (however it may be unrecognizable in the flavour) but here's an interesting and informative article on it here, http://www.makemead.net/adjusting-ph-and-acidity-in-mead.aspx .

**Golddiggie** · 01-30-2012, 04:32 AM

Whirlflock/Irish Moss is useless in mead, best to not even add it (or waste it). I also wouldn't heat the honey/must above 100-110F, period... 120-130F isn't as bad as some do, so you should be ok.

What was the OG of the batch? Was it close to 1.108??

IF you're at all concerned about the PH, test it before you add ANYTHING... As long as it's above about 3.2, you should be fine.

I've added more honey than you did, concentration wise, and it eventually took off. It was my first few batches, where I was aiming for ~18%, so I added all the honey up front. I did follow the step-nutrient program found on the Got Mead site/forums. You really do need to give the batch/yeast some nutrient, since honey is pretty barren of a few items the yeast need to get going, and keep going. Get some DAP and/or Fermax and you'll see some good things.

BTW, mead is a completely different animal compared with beers. Where a beer can start, and finish fermenting within weeks, mead often takes months (depending on the OG and yeast). I have two batches that were done in about a month (14%) but I have one that's still going (target is 21%). That third batch was started on 12/5/11 and is STILL active. I expect the 14% batches to be in bottles in 9-12 months. The 21% batch will go well over a year before it's in bottles. I have a batch planned (soon to be started) that will be going to 25%, or as close as I can get. Once you start going above about 14-16% you want to use different methods too. Not really for the novice/newbee.

Also, the quality of honey, IMO, is critical for mead. Quality in, quality out seriously holds true for mead. I make it a point to use local honey and as high as quality as I can find. I've had excellent results using this model, and will continue to do so.

**scottyg354** · 01-30-2012, 12:43 PM

Well I am seeing little bubbles around the perimeter of the top of the mead but nothinh major. And know airlock action. My main issue is I don't want to have a wasted batch as this wasn't cheap to make. Is my bases at roughly 64-66 Degrees too cool to be fermenting?

**Golddiggie** · 01-30-2012, 01:09 PM

Sounds like its post lag phase now. You should get airlock motion within 24-48 hours (or so).

Did you at least take an OG reading on the batch? Its rather important if you're going to do a nutrient step feed program. Also read up (on the got mead site) about aerating and degassing the must. All that will help get things going better.

Personally I've not used liquid yeast in my meads (only in my beers). I've not been convinced that they're as good as the Lalvin dry yeast. In fact, I've seen more posts about people having issues usong the liquid 'mead yeast' compared with using Lalvin dry yeast.

**scottyg354** · 01-30-2012, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Golddiggie

Sounds like its post lag phase now. You should get airlock motion within 24-48 hours (or so).

Did you at least take an OG reading on the batch? Its rather important if you're going to do a nutrient step feed program. Also read up (on the got mead site) about aerating and degassing the must. All that will help get things going better.

Personally I've not used liquid yeast in my meads (only in my beers). I've not been convinced that they're as good as the Lalvin dry yeast. In fact, I've seen more posts about people having issues usong the liquid 'mead yeast' compared with using Lalvin dry yeast.

Will see what happens. I'm gonna head to the LHBS today. Maybe I'll pick up a pack of lavlin if I don't see much improvement and pitch maybe half of the package of the lavlin. What strain should I get? Any suggestions on making a starter for mead?

**Golddiggie** · 01-30-2012, 05:41 PM

I would wait on getting the other yeast at least for now. If the OG is as I suspect then it depends on where you want it to go and the temperatures it will be at. Look at their strain guide (google it, I can't get the link at the moment) to help figure out which one looks good for you. Also, if you're going to pitch new yeast pitch the entire packet.

I've enjoyed the results from EC-1118 which goes up to 18%. Its also good to fix stuck fermentations. I've used D47 with decent results, and am using 71B in two batches that are not ready for tasting yet (too young).

BTW, the liquid yeast I have in one batch of mead isn't a mead yeast. I seriously doubt I'll use a liquid yeast that's supposed to be for mead in a batch of mead.

If you want more detailed assistance in your options go over to the Got Mead? Forums and post there.

**scottyg354** · 01-30-2012, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Golddiggie

I would wait on getting the other yeast at least for now. If the OG is as I suspect then it depends on where you want it to go and the temperatures it will be at. Look at their strain guide (google it, I can't get the link at the moment) to help figure out which one looks good for you. Also, if you're going to pitch new yeast pitch the entire packet.

I've enjoyed the results from EC-1118 which goes up to 18%. Its also good to fix stuck fermentations. I've used D47 with decent results, and am using 71B in two batches that are not ready for tasting yet (too young).

BTW, the liquid yeast I have in one batch of mead isn't a mead yeast. I seriously doubt I'll use a liquid yeast that's supposed to be for mead in a batch of mead.

If you want more detailed assistance in your options go over to the Got Mead? Forums and post there.

I didn't take an OG like a goof. I totally forgot. Do you think I can sneak a sample for a reading today?