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Originally Posted by vincanis
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1. Boiled water.
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OK
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2. Sanitized all Equipment with C-Brite.
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Don't know that one i.e. whether it's one that needs to be rinsed off or whether it's a "no rinse" sanitiers.....
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3. Rinsed equipment with boiling water.
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As above....
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4. Put on a new batch of water to be boiled and used in a mead.
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fine.
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5. Heated honey to about 185 degrees Fahrenheit with a double boiler and then quickly chilled to kill anything that may have been in it.
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Using current suggested technique, that's a waste of time and may have damaged the honey inasfaras, it's natures most anti-bacterial, anti-fungal substance. Heating honey is considered to remove a lot of the aromatics and possibly some of the finer flavouring elements. Even raw honey is considered fine, as any hive/bee debris will drop out during the fermentation and racking processes.
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6. Poured my honey: 3.5 lbs in the Sweet Mead and 3 in the Apple Pie mead.
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The actual amounts of honey used will depend on gravity readings and how strong (%ABV-wise) you want the end product to be - the higher the %ABV, often, the longer the finished mead will need to be aged for as a common result can be an "alcohol hot" flavour, which usually ages out over time.
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7. Poured the boiling water into the sweet mead, shook it, put a solid stopper on top and let it cool down in some cold water.
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Ok
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8. Topped off the Apple Pie mead with the Apple Cider and then added spices, then shook it up.
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One of the main reasons to start a batch, initially, in a bucket that has a larger volume than the intended batch, is to give expansion space during any aeration that might be used at primary stage/during SNA (staggered nutrient addition). As when it's stirred/shaken or however you aerate the batch, CO2 is released, causing batches to foam like hell, and the larger bucket will allow for this, whereas a carboy that holds the batch with little head space can result in an eruption of foam/mead fountain (fermenter place in a sink can reduce possible mess from this).
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9. Added yeast Energizer and Nutrient to both batches.
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Lots of people do this at this stage, yet if you read the
Gotmead NewBee guide, you'll follow that during the earliest stages, any DAP in nutrient is thought to be detrimental to yeast cell development. Hence why it's thought best to rehydrate yeast using GoFerm (little to none DAP, but plenty of other stuff nutritionally beneficial to yeast). Then once the pitched yeast is showing signs of fermentation, normal nutrient/energiser mix or combined nutrient type products are added.
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10. Waited until the normal mead was cool enough not to kill the yeast then prepared and pitched it.
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As above and/or at the NewBee guide.
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11. Shook both batches to aerate the yeast.
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Fine. There are a number of ways to aerate, some reading/research would show that mixing/stirring/shaking are often used, but also blitzing must in a sanitised liquidiser, bubbling air or O2 through an air stone, or even just setting the fermenter on a stir place with a sanitised stirring bar in the batch (sometimes for a set period, sometimes for the entire ferment).
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12. Put an Airlock on both and let them go.
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Ok.
The difference in the speed of fermentation is something that there's lots of talk about. It seems that there's not one particular thing that will guarantee the quickest method for fermentation. There's a number of things that are thought, or have been shown, to slow things down though. For instance, temperature, yeast type, sugars/fermentables level, excess acidity and/or low pH. Even honey types seem to vary the fermentation speeds.
I'd have thought that the Apple pie mead might be having issues with pH as honey is acidic enough, but the apple juice (sorry, I'm in the UK and "cider" here, is fermented apple juice, not cloudy apple juice as is often the case in the US) is also acidic. It may be that it just needs a bit more aeration, which is worth a try, but it may be that if you can test pH, you'd find that you'd need to add something to bring it up a bit. The "sweet spot" for pH and yeast, seems to be IRO 3.2 to 3.6 pH. There's a number of things that can be used to bring pH up a bit if needed, calcium carbonate comes to mind, but there's others (and they often have pro's and con's, hence a little research is often needed for you to work out which one you think best or prefer....)
Dunno if any of that lot is of any use or not. It might just give you some "food for thought" and pointers to look into other info. The NewBee guide is certainly worth a read as there are a number of differences between mead, beer and wine fermentations (meads are usually fermented more like wines).
p.s. Oh and D47 is considered a good yeast for meads, but if you looked it up on the
Lalvin yeast chart, you'd notice quite a narrow temperature range. I understand it needs to be kept below 70F/21C, otherwise it can produce fusels and a "paint thinners" sort of taste that isn't easily aged out/removed.