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Old 09-25-2012, 05:33 PM   #131
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With burnt mead, do you basically stick to the same ratio of honey to water that you would with a normal mead, or do you need to measure based on the cooked weight of the honey?



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Old 09-25-2012, 10:59 PM   #132
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With burnt mead, do you basically stick to the same ratio of honey to water that you would with a normal mead, or do you need to measure based on the cooked weight of the honey?
Yes you do. The cooked honey does not really reduce much at all. The only thing that changes is that some of the caramelized sugars will not ferment with some yeast. So you may end up with mead that may not go completely dry.


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Old 09-26-2012, 01:57 AM   #133
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Before you re-pitch the yeast. I might suggest to drop a campden tablet in there then wait for 24-48 hours to kill off anything else in the must. Then drop in the yeast. just a thought.

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Old 09-26-2012, 03:49 AM   #134
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Meads you should not have to add Camden before yeast pitch. Unless it is a melomel/bragott/cyser/pyment or the like with a larger quantity of other ingredients with a lower honey content, you don't need to do the Camden befor fermentation. But adding at racking for it's anti-oxidant properties is fine.

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Old 09-26-2012, 12:13 PM   #135
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Am I the only one who's stirring hand was stained yellow after making a Bochet ?

I've washed my hands at least 30 times in the last couple days but my right hand still looks like I've got Jaundice or I'm a serious chain smoker.
The only hand problem I've ever had from making bochet was a very large burn! (Wish I took pictures...)

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With burnt mead, do you basically stick to the same ratio of honey to water that you would with a normal mead, or do you need to measure based on the cooked weight of the honey?
Yeah, whatever ratio you would want to end up where you want to go is fine, and the pre-boiled weight is fine to use. Just take into account the fact that the carmelization process will create unfermentables, and you will end up with a slightly higher FG than you would expect otherwise; for example, I use 3 lbs per gallon (18 lbs clover for a 6 gal batch), and my yeast would normally dry that level of honey up to a bone, but after the boiling process, my FG's have ended more in the range of 1.007-1.011.

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Before you re-pitch the yeast. I might suggest to drop a campden tablet in there then wait for 24-48 hours to kill off anything else in the must. Then drop in the yeast. just a thought.
Totally unnecessary. If there's something wild in there working, the damage is already done, and your best bet is to just pitch a good quantity of healthy brewing yeast and expect that it will out-compete most stuff (and eventually kill off any potential nasties with a developing ABV level and pH drop. It won't help all forms of contamination, but I think it's the best bet...
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:26 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by putout View Post
With burnt mead, do you basically stick to the same ratio of honey to water that you would with a normal mead, or do you need to measure based on the cooked weight of the honey?
If you wanted to be picky with reproducing your desired abv, I would increase the honey by about a tenth, as some of the caramelised sugars won't ferment into alcohol.
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Autumn Wheat Beer
3787 Saaz/Styrian Porter
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:50 PM   #137
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Just honey, apple juice, water, nutrient, and energizer. It's simple enough, so I can only guess the yeast was bad....?
So it turns out my yeast was in fact bad. I pitched new yeast and it started to ferment within a few hours. I seem to have run into another problem though. My airlock was bubbling like crazy for about 5 days and then it just died off real quick. After a week and a half there was almost no activity in the airlock so I racked it assuming that because I used EC-1118 it just fermented really quick. I took a gravity reading and it only dropped from 1.090 to 1.030.

Am I just being impatient will it continue to drop even though there is little to no activity in the airlock? Or could my yeast have pooped out? Last night I added a little yeast nutrient and this morning it looks like there is a little more activity again.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:53 PM   #138
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Mead is natorious fir lack luster and boring ferments. Many wines and beers have much mire activity and are mire noticably finished when the airlock stops a knockin. Just give it a few more days. My first mead was like 27 days before it finally stopped for good. Yours will not be that long but you get the point.

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Old 09-29-2012, 01:51 AM   #139
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Just did this tonight....I was wearing welding gloves the whole time LOL

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Old 11-05-2012, 12:33 AM   #140
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Bottled the bochet today, after two months fermentation in a plastic drum without taking the lid off at all. I just calculated the OG (4kg honey in 12L water), which comes out at 0.266kg (adjusted for honey moisture) per litre, which is 1.100 OG, pot. abv %13.4.

The FG was 1.000 exactly (JUST the right amount of alcohol to balance out the residual sugars to reach water gravity!), and you'll remember that I didn't cook the honey all the way to a black state, so I guess that's why. That all calculates to about 13.1%, which is quite good for a 3787 Trappist High Gravity ferment. I can see why, since most of the ferment was done outside, in the daytime heat and the night-time cold.

And there are definitely a lot of fruity/spicy Belgian characters. I'll let this age for 6-8 months or so (winter in the Southern Hemisphere). I imagine it will taste just like a Belgian Dark Strong Ale in many ways, except without any bitterness or malt flavour, and a boost of caramel flavour.



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Primary:
7L of NSPA + 1kg honey + 3L white grape juice
Bulk Aging:
3787 Saaz/Styrian Porter (on palm sugar)
Autumn Wheat Beer (on "Profruit Krimsonberries")
3787 Bochet
Jack Keller's Seville Orange Wine
Bottled:
Nelson Sauvin Pale Ale
Autumn Wheat Beer
3787 Saaz/Styrian Porter
3787 Bochet
3787 Dubbel
Jack Keller's Seville Orange Wine
Wild Cyser
Future:
Stella-hopped Saison
Blackberry Wine or Bochet
Stout Bochet
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