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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Fermenters > STC-1000 Too Accurate?
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:20 PM   #21
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The first time I used the STC-1000 controller, was the first batch in my freezer. Initially the heater and the freezer were cycling on/off, about every ten minutes. The wort was still higher temped than I wanted, so I cut off the heater, set the temperature I wanted, and by the next morning the bucket was where I wanted it to be. At that point, I turned the heater back on, and all was well.

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Old 12-18-2013, 07:24 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by ianw58 View Post
Actually, if you look at the graph, you'll see a lot of fluctuation in the air temp. In fact there's so much that it ends up pulling the fermenter temps wild toward the end.

The graph is a perfect piece of evidence that the probe needs to be insulated and measuring the wort, not the air.
Im willing to conceed on the air argument at this point

FWIW, the wild fluctuations you see at the end I found out is actually due to the fact i'm an idiot and didn't fully close my stand up freezer door all the way while i was gone on vacation for the weekend...so it was just blowing hot air right out of the freezer all weekend.

Good to see it will still able to keep it within .5F of my set point though...Not bad considering it was like 40F in the garage all weekend.
Normally my heater only turns on for 5-10 minutes every 3-4 hours or so to maintain mid 60's when the ambient outside is in the 30-40's...

I still dont quite understand why people setup hot and cold to fight each other, just seems like a waste of energy.

I <3 BrewPi, helps me document my stupidity in graph form.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:01 PM   #23
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...I still dont quite understand why people setup hot and cold to fight each other, just seems like a waste of energy....
I certainly agree with you on that. IMO, undershoot and overshoot should be accounted for and F2 set outside of those values, and modify the system to reduce them, if F2 becomes unacceptably large. Besides being a waste of energy, having the heater and compressor cycle back and forth in a constant battle, will prematurely wear the components.
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Old 12-20-2013, 05:00 PM   #24
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Thanks everybody for the information. I wasn't expecting to start a debate, but it certainly provides me a lot of food for thought!

I was originally of the mindset that having the temperature probe insulated against the liquid will cause larger temp swings as the sensor won't feel the new temperature as quick. Ultimately though I thing I understand that it makes sense to control the until based on the temperature of the liquid since that's the ultimate goal.

Here's my question though, and I hope I didn't miss this in the above discussion: Because the entire unit is insulated from the environment, wouldn't it make more sense to have the temp sensor uninsulated against the liquid chamber? This would theoretically allow the liquid to reach the desired temperature more quickly.

Thanks again!
Andy

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Old 12-20-2013, 05:32 PM   #25
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Thanks everybody for the information. I wasn't expecting to start a debate, but it certainly provides me a lot of food for thought!

I was originally of the mindset that having the temperature probe insulated against the liquid will cause larger temp swings as the sensor won't feel the new temperature as quick. Ultimately though I thing I understand that it makes sense to control the until based on the temperature of the liquid since that's the ultimate goal.

Here's my question though, and I hope I didn't miss this in the above discussion: Because the entire unit is insulated from the environment, wouldn't it make more sense to have the temp sensor uninsulated against the liquid chamber? This would theoretically allow the liquid to reach the desired temperature more quickly.

Thanks again!
Andy

No, if I am reading you right.
Insulate the sensor, against the liquid containing vessel.
A piece of foam insulation, and an "Ace" bandage are all that's needed.
With this configuration, you'll have maybe a 2-3 inch width of the vessel covered with the bandage, and maybe a 2 inch sq. area insulated.

As I said, don't know if I read you right, but don't insulate the whole vessel.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:23 PM   #26
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As I said, don't know if I read you right, but don't insulate the whole vessel.
You're right, I hadn't read it correctly and it makes much more sense now. THanks!
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Old 03-29-2014, 11:31 PM   #27
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Haven't had a chance until now to really dig in to the issue with my fridge. After using the video above (thanks Smetz001) as a starting point, I discovered the compressor is OK. So is the relay though. Turns out the ADC (Automatic Defrost Control) board is bad, so it's not sending 115/120 VAC to the compressor. Depending on what I can find, I may replace the board, but I think I am going to try to bypass it. After all, my end goal is to maintain the freezer side at just above freezing for cold storage, so no defrost control would be needed.

I may consider wiring direct to the compressor assembly from the controller if this doesn't work. I would essentially pull the relay and inject the voltage at that point directly from the STC-1000.

Once I get the fridge working THEN I'll wade through the rest of the info in this thread!

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