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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Fermenters > STC 1000 "Ebay" Temperature Controller Build
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:50 PM   #21
carlisle_bob
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Hi

It's worth noting that the rating on the STC 1000 contacts is 10A at 220V AC. The rating at 110V is likely higher. Oddly enough, the rating at low voltage DC may / may not be higher. A lot depends on how the relay was designed.

At least on the ones that I have, the relays are marked:

HF3FF
12VDC-1HS
10A 277 VAC
15A 125 VAC
TV-5
CHINA

I'd say that's a pretty good clue that you can run them at 15A on a 110V circuit.

Bob

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Old 06-02-2012, 05:14 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by carlisle_bob View Post
Hi

It's worth noting that the rating on the STC 1000 contacts is 10A at 220V AC. The rating at 110V is likely higher. Oddly enough, the rating at low voltage DC may / may not be higher. A lot depends on how the relay was designed.

At least on the ones that I have, the relays are marked:

HF3FF
12VDC-1HS
10A 277 VAC
15A 125 VAC
TV-5
CHINA

I'd say that's a pretty good clue that you can run them at 15A on a 110V circuit.

Bob
Thanks for the input... I think I will put an inline 15A fuse and leave it at that. I do like the idea of being fuse protected.
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:25 PM   #23
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Hi

Nothing wrong with using a fuse. Just be sure that it's a 110V device and not a 12V auto fuse. The low voltage ones can get a bit messy when you blow them on line current.

Bob

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Old 06-02-2012, 09:16 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by carlisle_bob View Post
Hi

It's worth noting that the rating on the STC 1000 contacts is 10A at 220V AC. The rating at 110V is likely higher. Oddly enough, the rating at low voltage DC may / may not be higher. A lot depends on how the relay was designed.

At least on the ones that I have, the relays are marked:

HF3FF
12VDC-1HS
10A 277 VAC
15A 125 VAC
TV-5
CHINA

I'd say that's a pretty good clue that you can run them at 15A on a 110V circuit.

Bob

True, but is that in SI amps or China Amps?

anyway, you can go wrong with a fuse, Happy brewing.
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:56 PM   #25
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Hi

There's no way of knowing weather anything in the STC-1000 lives up to it's ratings. It does *appear* to be well designed and put together. As with any eBay acquisition, use at your own risk ....

Bob

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Old 06-04-2012, 02:02 AM   #26
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Hi

There's no way of knowing weather anything in the STC-1000 lives up to it's ratings. It does *appear* to be well designed and put together. As with any eBay acquisition, use at your own risk ....

Bob
Agreed. I am lovin mine so far!
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:59 PM   #27
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Agreed. I am lovin mine so far!
Hi

You only have one? Geeezz, get with the program. I think I've got three or four hooked up

Just noticed that they are now down to $19.99 with free shipping - crazy what you get for your money.

Bob
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:21 PM   #28
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Yea only one for now. I may build another once I convert my Ferm chamber into a dual use Ferm chamber/kegerator

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Old 06-05-2012, 12:56 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by lincoln View Post
ether side would work, I put it inline with income power. I would use a 10 amp slow blow type, or a 12/14 amp regular blow. Motors have a significant in rush current that can burn a fast blow fuse.



Sorry gatorbite87, I'm going to take you to the wood shed over this. The point of a fuse is to prevent a fire when things don't "run perfectly" The outlet in your wall has at worst a 20 amp circuit breaker. The controller is rated for 10 amps. You need a fuse. Have you see this guy:


this is what I did:



basically there are two SSR one for each side (Heat / Cool) the ones I found were 40 amp but can be triggered by 12~24 vdc/ac The two diodes are 1 amp rectifiers. Ether heat or cool come on the fan will run and the diodes give (albeit lumpy) dc to a computer fan inside to keep air moving. If your SSR's can handle ac input adding a diode or 4 with a cap to the output of the transformer will make them happier.



what your looking for is called a process timer. I have one that i scrounged many years ago, just a quick look through ebay it don't look like it. there are other ones from omega and the like but the sellers want unreasonable amounts of money for them!!!! What range of timing are you looking for? What kind of outputs?
Is the fan always running in this scenario? If not, you're going to have a bad time with those relays.

Edit: Looked at the schematic and kinda made answered my own question. Just make sure the fan is always connected.

Edit2: Your schematic is all wrong. You have the coil running from the secondary, via a switch, to the your controllable outlet. If you do this you're going to do this, you'll be posting from a hospital bed. If you don't know what you're doing when it comes to high voltage applications, please don't post a schematic to the internet. I'm not trying to be an ass, but you could seriously injure or kill someone the way this is setup.
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Old 06-05-2012, 02:27 PM   #30
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Are you talking about wsender or me? My sketch is about as simple design as they come and has been working perfectly since I started using it

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