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Old 01-27-2015, 07:27 PM   #1591
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Originally Posted by stoneBriar View Post
Do you have any links on how to do this. I've been on-and-off looking for a dummies version of how to replace the thermostat on my refrigerator with an STC1000+ and avoid having a box duct taped to the side of my ferm fridge.
Here is how I did my fridge conversion. You should be able to do something similar with other fridges. To find out what wires you need to connect you could unplug the fridge, take apart the temp adjuster and then use a multimeter to check continuity between the temp adjuster and the wall plug. You should just have to find hot and neutral. Then find the one that connects to the compressor. Mine happened to be red to the compressor, blue was neutral and brown was hot. I then tested my theory by connecting the hot (brown) wire to the compressor (red) wire and plugged the fridge on. The compressor kicked in and i was off to the races.

YMMV but Good luck.
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:46 PM   #1592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoneBriar View Post
Do you have any links on how to do this. I've been on-and-off looking for a dummies version of how to replace the thermostat on my refrigerator with an STC1000+ and avoid having a box duct taped to the side of my ferm fridge.
No, but I'm sure there is something on line.

It's not difficult. You just want to disconnect the internal thermostat and run the power to the controller. Each unit will be slightly different due to the location of the thermostat and how the wires are routed through the unit. Mine is an expensive one where everything is replaceable vs being installed through walls and insulated over...etc.

Make sure the stc can handle the amps for the chamber you're using. I believe the stc is rated for 15 amps at 120v, so shouldn't be an issue for most fridges.

*edit* there you go. I see someone got you some info above. It's not hard, so don't be intimidated. Good luck!
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Old 01-28-2015, 05:32 PM   #1593
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Simple question, the user manual for my stc before flashing gave range as -50 to 99degrees C . I suspect that was the case for all A400_P's.I noticed the user manual for the 1000+ states -40 C to 140 degrees C .does this remarkable firmware change, extend the range of the controller? Kind of irrelevant but seems a bonus.

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Old 01-28-2015, 05:46 PM   #1594
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Well, the range needs to be taken with a grain of salt. The NTC temperature-reaistance curve is very non-linear, so while you can squeeze some more range out of the ADC, accuracy gets worse the further you get from +25C.
I think the main reason they state 99 degrees in the stc manual, is that it only has 3 digits and one is used for decimal. I solve it by dropping the decimal when I need all three digits, but I guess they didn't want to mess with that.

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Old Yesterday, 01:58 PM   #1595
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Alpha:
I know that you have focused on the STC-1000+ controller, but have you seen the ITC controllers from Inkbird? Didn't know if these controllers were programmable. They are similar to the STC, but in Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. If they were programmable, would this allow for more features since I know the code is limited?

Just a thought.

Links: ITC-1000
ITC-2000

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Old Yesterday, 02:13 PM   #1596
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@Perzellbrewing:
Yes, I've seen them. What makes the STC-1000 (A400_P version that is) so suitable, is that it has a PIC microcontroller, so it has tools (compilers et.c.) and datasheets availiable.
I don't know anything about these controllers, it would probably be possible (as they are programmed at some point during manufacturing), but is it practically doable?
What do these offer that the STC don't? Seems like very much the same thing, except they are preprogrammed for F. I really don't have much incentive to look into those, as it will probably be a lot of work (if even doable) for little or no benefits.
If you get one, please do let me know what MCU is used. If it is something relatively open (i.e. has the needed documentation) and has better specs than the PIC16F1828, then it might be interesting.
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Old Today, 04:21 PM   #1597
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I'm trying to build a arduino pro mini set up like alphaomega and flomaster did (post 1532?). I ordered off ebay from china and of course got a few components that look a bit different than what I was expecting. I think it will still work but I'm struggling with aligning the usb to arduino as the pins aren't in the same position or have same labels. Tried a few google searches but since it is a "no name unit" I can't find anything.

Any advice would be appreciated. I've attached an image of the two components. I think it came out clear enough.

If these are totally wrong/incompatible I'll probably just scrap it. Was looking for an easier way to be able to flash update my controller. But I can open my box I suppose if and when I need to.

Thanks!
Brian

20150130_145128.jpg  
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Old Today, 04:39 PM   #1598
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That's right, tx and rx and reversed

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Old Today, 05:03 PM   #1599
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Originally Posted by rosenhop View Post
I'm trying to build a arduino pro mini set up like alphaomega and flomaster did (post 1532?). I ordered off ebay from china and of course got a few components that look a bit different than what I was expecting. I think it will still work but I'm struggling with aligning the usb to arduino as the pins aren't in the same position or have same labels. Tried a few google searches but since it is a "no name unit" I can't find anything.

Any advice would be appreciated. I've attached an image of the two components. I think it came out clear enough.

If these are totally wrong/incompatible I'll probably just scrap it. Was looking for an easier way to be able to flash update my controller. But I can open my box I suppose if and when I need to.

Thanks!
Brian
I think you will need to remove the pin labeled 'cts', other than that, it looks like the pins you need line up fine (dtr-dtr, txd-rxd, rxd-txd, vcc-5v and gnd-gnd). But before you do anything permanent see if you can test if it will work. You can for example bend just the cts pin straight, plug in the usb and fire up arduino ide. Make sure you find the com port, if you do, you can try to upload a sketch by simply attaching the arduino to the pins and press slightly to make the connection. If you can upload like this, you are good to go. Remove the pin and solder it up.

Edit: By press slightly, I mean that your arduino will be pointing up (vertically), put some pressure on the top of it (horisontally) so that it wants to bend against the pins. This way you will have a good connection (I've done this myself a couple of times to upload a sketch without having to solder in the connector on the arduino).
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