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Old 01-16-2014, 03:01 PM   #51
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Standby - both my valves are in use - should be able to disconnect one a bit later today

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Old 01-19-2014, 03:15 PM   #52
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If I just ask everyday for a parts list, Will it eventually inspire you?

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Old 01-22-2014, 02:01 AM   #53
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Better late than never - right!



Ok so let me kind of explain how this works and then I can provide some part numbers. Keep in mind - this is not a perfect solution - but it works relatively well. The biggest issue is if you keep cranked down on the ball will get lodged in the NPT adapter unless there is enough pressure to dislodge it. Once that happens everything is fine. Sometimes though as you're releasing tension on the spring this can happen suddenly and water will go everywhere.

Back to how this works: the top PVC cap is threaded. The thumb screw goes through the tap and hits a thumb nut which sits inside the top of the spring (there is also a washer in between to make sure the thumb nut doesn't bind with the spring). When tightened, the thumb nut compresses the spring against the ball below which will seal up the opening in the NPT adapter. There is a length of 1/2" stainless round tube that floats inside the spring and this prevents the spring from kinking too severely. In my case I've adapted it from triclamp but that is obviously optional. The PVC cap has a few vent holes drilled (around 3/16") to let the pressure escape. It's also a good place to allow you to fill the valve. There is a locknut threaded onto the thumb screw before the cap to allow you to lock the screw from tightening (also a good way to remember where it was last time you used it).

So here are parts:

NPT adapter (reducing coupling 1" x 1/2"): McMaster 4464K534
4" clear PVC, 1" NPT: McMaster 4677T33
3/4" Viton rubber ball: McMaster 3645K7
1" PVC cap: McMaster 4596K44 or 1" Stainless cap: McMaster 4464K512
Thumb screw: McMaster 93015A217
Thumb nut: McMaster 90368A250
Spring: McMaster 1986K132
Stainless round tube: McMaster 8457K26 - I have to verify the cut but I believe it is 2.75-3".
Washer: McMaster 92217A520
Locknut: McMaster 91847A029

All these parts have really specific sizings so take note if you're trying to substitute something. The OD's are tight.

I'd recommend making sure you don't have this plumbed in such a way it could leak back into your fermenter. Mine has never leaked but it is always possible and you fill it with plain water (I use distilled).

Any questions - let me know!

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Old 01-22-2014, 04:18 AM   #54
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Thanks! I think I'll cobble one of these together!

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Old 01-22-2014, 08:21 AM   #55
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I may take inspiration on this and use a teflon ball and install an o ring at the base since teflon is a very slippery surface and won't stick to the gasket. or use a teflon o ring along with your ball. Email me if you want to hear more.

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Old 01-22-2014, 01:04 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nightrider069 View Post
I may take inspiration on this and use a teflon ball and install an o ring at the base since teflon is a very slippery surface and won't stick to the gasket. or use a teflon o ring along with your ball. Email me if you want to hear more.
I was actually thinking something similar. A SS ball and maybe just lube it up lightly so that it seals/does not stick. Of course building one of these is a fair bit off for me but I love to read up on these builds.
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Old 03-01-2014, 06:20 PM   #57
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I am not sure how I missed the replies to this but: you took the words out of my mouth. I'm going to swap the Viton ball for a stainless steel ball instead. I have a couple different sizes on order. I really think this is going to solve the problem once and for all with the Viton ball sticking and they are actually cheaper than those Viton balls! So stay tuned. I should have a chance to test this so stay tuned. This is really the only real problem that I've had with this valve - otherwise it has worked flawlessly.

I may see about the possibility of having a custom part made for it - replacing the floating stainless tube with a stainless tube/cup so that the spring puts better pressure on the ball. That would be the last thing I think that would really clean this up.

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Old 03-02-2014, 03:39 PM   #58
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Great engineering, just a few thoughts, perhaps you have tried or not....

Rather than using a soft material for the ball how about using a harder substance like nylon plastic or even stainless steal or copper

For the uneven spring pressure issue how about a slightly larger diameter spring that applies pressure to a flat surface, perhaps a weaker spring in a longer tube will help? The larger diameter spring will allow for a more even for print, spread out the tension better.

Just a few things for the OP or someone else wanting to improve on what seems to be a very well thought out idea....sometimes I think I enjoy the engineering of brewing more then brewing it self...




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Old 03-02-2014, 04:54 PM   #59
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The stainless ball I have on order so I'll be testing that out and will post back. The spring is a tricky matter - finding the right combination of OD/ID and the part to push down on top of the spring is not particularly straight-forward. But let me dig a bit and see what I can find. The rotation around the sphere really is a minor inconvenience more than a real issue I'd say.

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Old 03-02-2014, 05:30 PM   #60
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Ok I'm going to get a slightly wider spring, but in 3" instead of 4" (which means a 3" PVC housing will be required - luckily I have this on hand to test) and in order to stick with the same thumb nut and thumb screw combo (which works well), I'll get a washer to fit around the shaft of the thumb nut and make sure the OD of the new spring is covered. Should have this all by Tuesday so stay tuned!

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