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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Fermenters > my 15 gal conical
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Old 12-31-2010, 08:30 PM   #11
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it took me a while but i finally got the racking port added. a couple posts above there is a link posted from hess brewing when they converted their conicals (thanks hedonist91).

i went ahead and ordered the 1/2 inch bulk head they used from tank depot. after drilling a 38 mm hole like they recommended, i put it in. to my horror it was too big of a hole (in the build thread above, they said it was a tight fit and they had to force it through... i had atleast a 1/4 inch of clearance around the outlet. however, the gasket on the inside of the conical is more than enough to cover the hole, and since there is no turning back at this point i went with it. the bulkhead is only supposed to be hand tight as well.

i picked up a close 1/2 cpvc nipple, and ordered a 3 pc 1/2 SS ball valve and 1/2 inch x 1/2 inch hose barb, and after wrapping the sh*t out of the threads, put it all together after a test fit.

an hr in and no leaks let, so i'm happy so far... we will see over night.



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Old 01-03-2011, 03:25 AM   #12
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I've got one of these tanks (minus the stand, gonna try and make my own) on order, so looking forward to seeing how this turns out. Planning on using triclover fittings on the bottom, in case I decide to upgrade to a stainless tank down the road...

Is there any reason folks are using the PVC bulkheads, as opposed to just using a standard keggle weldless setup?

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Old 01-04-2011, 11:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ubermick View Post
I've got one of these tanks (minus the stand, gonna try and make my own) on order, so looking forward to seeing how this turns out. Planning on using triclover fittings on the bottom, in case I decide to upgrade to a stainless tank down the road...

Is there any reason folks are using the PVC bulkheads, as opposed to just using a standard keggle weldless setup?
honestly, i dont know. my original plan was to go with a weldless bulkhead, but then when i saw the nano guys using the pvc bulkhead i just went that route, plus the 3.99 price didnt hurt (although $9 shipping did ). one of the things i do like is that it only protrudes about a half inch into the fermenter which is nice.

if i build another one of these down the road, i will also opt out of the stand, and i would also go with a butterfly dump (tri clover if possible?) for the bottom outlet... that 1.5 inch ball valve for 23 shipped was a steal though and it works.

i will need to raise the fermenter to use the racking port funtionally, so i will most likely just put together a wooden stand to sit on rather than welding extensions on

im also flirting with the idea of trying to pressurize this thing for racking...maybe go with like 5 psi or something, with a corny post in the lid??
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Old 01-04-2011, 03:29 PM   #14
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If you need one of the black bulkheads for the racking port and don't want to pay shipping, look for a quality pet store that has some saltwater aquarium items. those bulkheads are used widely in the aquarium hobby.
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:06 PM   #15
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Default Connical Build

I just bought two of these from The Tank Depot: Ace 15 Gallon Full Drain Biodiesel Tank / Wine Tank Part Number: A-INFD15-19

My idea was to have two ballvalves at the bottom of the tank and have the top valve open during fermentation the bottom one closed during fermentation, after fermentation close the the top valve and open the bottom valve to empty the trub and yeast out, also instead of drilling a hole into the conical to drain beer I would either attach a hose or just drain right from the bottom to the keg.
The vessels are arriving today so Any comments, suggestions, repsonses are welcomed.
I will be building a stand to accomodate the two vessels after i decide the height the vessels need to be to drain into a keg

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Old 01-04-2011, 07:34 PM   #16
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I built one very similar a few years ago. I used polypropylene ball valves. 1/2" for the racking port & reduced the 2" dump port down to 1" . Everything was bought from a farm store. Total cost ~$100. Here are some pics. Cheers!!!

Note: The brass barb was replaced with a polyethylene one.










In the Fermentation Box

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Old 01-04-2011, 08:44 PM   #17
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My work has a couple these laying around, I might see if I can buy them at the end of the project. I do have one question if one wanted to dry hop,
1. Do you poor the yeast off and dry hop in the same container?
2. Rack to a secondary and dry hop in that.
3. Or it really doesn't matter both way are ok.

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Old 01-04-2011, 09:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
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My work has a couple these laying around, I might see if I can buy them at the end of the project. I do have one question if one wanted to dry hop,
1. Do you poor the yeast off and dry hop in the same container?
2. Rack to a secondary and dry hop in that.
3. Or it really doesn't matter both way are ok.
I've dry hopped batches in the conical if I was planning to bottle it. Once the primary fermentation is done just dump some yeast, and use a white women's knee high stocking & tie a string to it & to the conical so it doesn't sink to the bottom. Otherwise I just throw the nylon full of hops in the keg & forget about it until it's empty. Cheers!!!
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:32 PM   #19
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Hmm. So are folks using PVC, CPVC, or Poly bulkheads on these? I'm assuming that PVC is fine, since nothing's going to be hot in here, but just wanted to verify...

Also, how are people getting to their kegs from these? I've seen builds where the stands are tall enough that folks just slide the corny under the dump valve, and pour in from there, and other folks (like hamilton there) have a racking arm? I was kinda thinking that since the conical will be directing all the trub to where the racking arm sits in the conical, you had to be able to rotate it up and out of the way until after you dump trub/yeast? (Be nice to be able to push with CO2, but I imagine trying to pressurize these will result in a loud bang and a serious mess!)

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Old 01-04-2011, 10:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ubermick View Post
Hmm. So are folks using PVC, CPVC, or Poly bulkheads on these? I'm assuming that PVC is fine, since nothing's going to be hot in here, but just wanted to verify...

Also, how are people getting to their kegs from these? I've seen builds where the stands are tall enough that folks just slide the corny under the dump valve, and pour in from there, and other folks (like hamilton there) have a racking arm? I was kinda thinking that since the conical will be directing all the trub to where the racking arm sits in the conical, you had to be able to rotate it up and out of the way until after you dump trub/yeast? (Be nice to be able to push with CO2, but I imagine trying to pressurize these will result in a loud bang and a serious mess!)
After the trub & yeast are dumped what's left is shaped like a cone just like the conical, with the end of the racking cane right in the middle. I'll open the racking port & run off about 6 oz. and that clears the yeast out of there. It's permanent, as in it doesn't rotate nor does it need to. I attach a tube to the barbed port and the other end goes into the bottom of the CO2 flushed keg. When one keg is full I just move the tube over to the next one. When I see yeast flowing I shut it off. What's left in the conical is maybe a quart or two of slurry. That's when I capture the yeast for the next brew. Cheers!!!
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