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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Fermenters > EBay fish tank controller build using Wal-mart parts
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:38 PM   #101
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That's strange. Mine were tight and required some torque but I got them loose with a small-medium flat screwdriver.

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The screws feel like they are turning. Maybe I need to look a little closer and make sure I have my driver in the notch. (Diesel mechanic prepares to swallow pride after returning home)
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:57 PM   #102
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The screws feel like they are turning. Maybe I need to look a little closer and make sure I have my driver in the notch. (Diesel mechanic prepares to swallow pride after returning home)
The screws don't come out. The little gate will lift up though, and reveal a small hole in which you put the wire in.

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Old 02-01-2012, 10:43 PM   #103
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The screws don't come out. The little gate will lift up though, and reveal a small hole in which you put the wire in.

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Yeah. Power and sensor are fine. Heat and cool appear to be stuck.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:35 PM   #104
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I'm stupid. I don't know what I was doing wrong. I got it now.

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Old 02-02-2012, 01:05 AM   #105
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Just got it all figured out! Thanks for the guidance of my first electrical build. Should be able to complete the next one in about 15 minutes start to finish.
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:37 AM   #106
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I got mine together too. Didn't build a box though. I wired to cooling circuit directly into the fridge in place of the thermostat. The only thing left is to find a heater and a permanent home on the outside of the fridge for the controller. Waiting for her to come up to 13C.

image-3788905828.jpg   image-3966321310.jpg  
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Old 02-02-2012, 02:44 AM   #107
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Thanks for the help guys!! I ll try the lamp tomorrow!

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Old 02-02-2012, 04:25 AM   #108
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BraxtonBrewery, as mentioned a few posts ago...also check that you've broken the metal tab between the two outlets from Photo 3 in Post 3. (Use pliers to bend the metal back and forth to sever the connection.)

Otherwise, your fridge will be turned on when EITHER cooling OR heating is required. The fridge will turn on when the temp reaches 1c above your target temp. But when the temp reaches 1c below your target (i.e. when it's already cold enough), the heat function will activate but with tab unbroken, the heat relay is also connected to your fridge.

Eventually, your fridge will overheat and won't bother turning on when it needs to - giving you random results. (The ice cube lamp test will leave your lamp ON even when it's BELOW your target temp.)

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Old 02-07-2012, 02:36 AM   #109
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Just put this together using the instructions in the first post. Used a cigar box for the case. Everything worked on the first try. Thanks for all the help in this thread!

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Old 02-07-2012, 03:36 AM   #110
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Just put this together using the instructions in the first post. Used a cigar box for the case. Everything worked on the first try. Thanks for all the help in this thread!
Awesome!

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