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Old 10-18-2013, 04:31 PM   #3801
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Originally Posted by IslandLizard View Post
I got 2 of these 2 months ago. They were $18.00 at the time, and free shipping with a $25.00+ order total.

STC-1000

A search for "STC-1000" on Amazon should bring you numerous options. Beware, some may add shipping or be sent from overseas.
Perfect, thanks everyone. Time to order and get started! Starting off with a wee-heavy!
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:36 PM   #3802
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Confirmed working, thanks for the help guys!

I added the lamps back in on the drawing, have not connected them yet since the STC is in use right now, but the revised diagram is below. My question is the combined lead (black line), should it go to port 2 as shown or port 1?

So far I am finding that the temperature is too low. The STC turns on the fridge when it hits the upper threshold I set and the fridge cools so fast that even after it shuts off the temp keeps lowering. I am saving some electricity bill but need to tweak the settings/thresholds/window a bit. I wanted a temp between 60-65 but when it kicks in at 65 it keeps getting down to around 55-56 before starting back up. Any good threads about the settings?
Your probe needs some thermal mass to work with. My mini-fridge conversion didn't work properly until I taped the probe directly to the side of a full carboy, and taped a patch of double foil-sided, bubble wrap insulation over it.

With the probe in the air, I was cycling between the heater and compressor; same when I tried dropping it into a 1-quart tea kettle of water. But with the probe taped to the carboy and insulated from the air, the temperature usually overshoots the set temp by .1*C.


Example: I'm fermenting a saison right now. My heater kicked in a few minutes ago, when the STC-1000 display had dropped to 25.5*C. It shut off at 26.0*C, and the temperature stopped rising at 26.1*C. Now it's flashing back and forth between 26.1 and 26.0...
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:26 PM   #3803
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[...]I added the lamps back in on the drawing, have not connected them yet since the STC is in use right now, but the revised diagram is below. My question is the combined lead (black line), should it go to port 2 as shown or port 1?[...]
The lamp wiring as shown is correct, the common node wants to be connected to the neutral line...

Cheers!
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Old 10-19-2013, 01:33 PM   #3804
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So I got my temp controller today and it was missing one of the orange tabs used to secure it. I am assuming that is a specialty piece that I cant pick up at radio shack. Any thoughts other than sending it back for another one?

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Old 10-19-2013, 02:02 PM   #3805
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So I got my temp controller today and it was missing one of the orange tabs used to secure it. I am assuming that is a specialty piece that I cant pick up at radio shack. Any thoughts other than sending it back for another one?
Rats!

First, contact the seller. Maybe they can send you the missing tab, or remediate (giving you a discount). I know contacting sellers on Amazon is hit and, more often, miss.

On the other hand, once installed, a bead of hot glue will hold it in place too.

The unit may have been a return for whatever reason. So check if you see any signs of use. Like the way the probe wire is coiled and tied, missing plastic foil from the face etc.

When you're committed to keep it, you should test it to make sure it works, before building it in a box and gluing it down.
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:31 PM   #3806
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Rats!

First, contact the seller. Maybe they can send you the missing tab, or remediate (giving you a discount). I know contacting sellers on Amazon is hit and, more often, miss.

On the other hand, once installed, a bead of hot glue will hold it in place too.

The unit may have been a return for whatever reason. So check if you see any signs of use. Like the way the probe wire is coiled and tied, missing plastic foil from the face etc.

When you're committed to keep it, you should test it to make sure it works, before building it in a box and gluing it down.
I'll try contacting them. Also glad you mentioned to test it first. I was so frustrated by the missing tab that didn't even cross my mind.
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:39 PM   #3807
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So I got my temp controller today and it was missing one of the orange tabs used to secure it. I am assuming that is a specialty piece that I cant pick up at radio shack. Any thoughts other than sending it back for another one?
I agree with Islandlizard. Contact the seller first. I had one shipped from Hong Kong that the cold relay wouldn't work. I shot them an email describing the problem, and they sent me a new unit free of charge, and I kept the old one, that I now use for the temp readings only. Worth a shot.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:44 PM   #3808
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I agree with Islandlizard. Contact the seller first. I had one shipped from Hong Kong that the cold relay wouldn't work. I shot them an email describing the problem, and they sent me a new unit free of charge, and I kept the old one, that I now use for the temp readings only. Worth a shot.
Unfortunately I contacted the seller and they are having me mail back the one without the clip.

ALSO, has anyone actually included a 10Amp fuse in their set up shown from this DIY Instructable? http://nordeastbrewersalliance.files...structions.pdf

I went to radioshack and of course they had no idea what type of 10amp fuse to use and neither did I.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:58 PM   #3809
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The Amazon STC-1000s are still below $20 (although I can't find them for $18 any more). Be careful to get the 110V model if you are in the USA. The Elitech is the one I have.

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Old 10-21-2013, 07:02 PM   #3810
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Unfortunately I contacted the seller and they are having me mail back the one without the clip.

ALSO, has anyone actually included a 10Amp fuse in their set up shown from this DIY Instructable? http://nordeastbrewersalliance.files...structions.pdf

I went to radioshack and of course they had no idea what type of 10amp fuse to use and neither did I.
That's terrible, unless they pick up the shipping. Please post the name of that seller so we can avoid them.

Make sure the unit works before gluing or modifying it in any way.

There is no need for a fuse as long as you are not going to load the controller with more than 10A (= 1100 Watt @110V). So plugging in a 1500W space heater will certainly fry your STC-1000.

If you must, in a pinch you could use an "inline fuse," which you'd insert into the live (black) lead of your feed cable, inside the box. IMO it is unnecessary.
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Preparing: Framboise Clone | Arrogant Bastard Clone | Raging Bitch Clone #3 | Tank 7 Saison Clone | Fresh Squeezed IPA | Sours
Fermenting:
Dry hopping:
Aging: Old Treacle Mine ==> Oud Bruin
On tap: Belgian Wit {1st place @FSH Guild Wheat Beer Comp.} | Pocahontas Pumpkin Ale
Kicked: 2.3'd | ESB | Sketchy Bastard | Black Butte Porter Clone | Raging Bitch Clone #2 | Citra Wheat Saison | Rosemary Wheat Saison | Great Lakes Christmas Ale Clone | Caramel Amber Ale
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