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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Fermenters > ebay aquarium temp controller build
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:00 PM   #2821
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You need power to both sides of the receptacles. If you want to just cool, run wires only from the cool section of the controller and don't break your black side tab.

Hope this applies to what you say your problem is without turning on your fridge.

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Old 07-10-2012, 03:05 PM   #2822
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Look the first page of thread.

If you want to jus cool-then don't wire any connections from the heat circuit of the controller and leave the tab on the electrical receptacles intact. This will give you two receptacles that will power on when the temp probe hits the target set temp.

This is how I have mine set to cool freezer and run a circulating fan when the temp set is met.

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Old 07-10-2012, 03:16 PM   #2823
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Here's how I have it wired. The tab is not broken, and I do not have anything on the heating circuit.

img_4339.jpg  
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:18 PM   #2824
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Incoming Hot on 1-7, Neutral on 2 and neutral side of receptacle, 8 to hot side of receptacle. Probe on 3-4.

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Old 07-10-2012, 03:30 PM   #2825
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Sorry...I can't make sense of your wires completely. A good rule of thumb is to use the proper color wire for each leg of your circuit. You have two black wires on contacts 1 & 2...you should have a black and a white. The other thing is to connect each leg where it needs connecting to and not splice for convenience. You meed two black wires and two white wires connected to your receptacle. Electricity doesn't allow for you to take shortcuts.

Check your connections again and make sure you have connections for every point. If you have to, re-wire the circuits.

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Old 07-10-2012, 03:35 PM   #2826
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If none of the tabs on the outlet are broken, then it looks right to me. You have hot going direct to outlet, and also to STC power. Then you have neutral going to STC power, input of cooling. Then you have neutral coming out of cooling to other side of outlet. Again, if no jumpers broken at all, you should be working on the cooling side.

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Old 07-10-2012, 03:36 PM   #2827
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I appreciate your help, but in the picture, black in on 1, white is on 2? I don't know what you're looking at. 3-4 is probe, and 7-8 is switched black going to receptacle. No one is making shortcuts here.

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Old 07-10-2012, 03:48 PM   #2828
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I was looking at it on my iPhone while cutting my lawn....my bad.

Check and re-check your connections....and then check your programing.
*Remember to push the power button to lock in your programming settings.

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Old 07-10-2012, 04:33 PM   #2829
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No worries, I am going to go back in and start probing. I was hoping it was something obvious and dumb. I'll report back. Thanks again to the homebrew community.

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Old 07-10-2012, 06:04 PM   #2830
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Upon further inspection, here is where its at. When wired like I have it, the heating circuit at posts 5-6 work as they should, when not in heating mode, no continuity, and when the unit is powered off, they are off. However, the cooling circuit, does not behave properly, it remains on in cooling/heating mode, and when the unit is powered off.

So I thought maybe just cooling side is bad, so switched wiring and made it into heat only mode. Now I am getting the opposite effect. Does this have anything to do with the wiring diagram on unit saying 10A/240VAC above posts for cooling/heating? Should I just put another hot power lead into non-used side? Very confused here.

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