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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Fermenters > ebay aquarium temp controller build
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:12 AM   #2531
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Alas, I am trying to wire up one for a friend and I'm having some problems. I can't get the switched outlet to work. I waited for the delay and I can hear the relay kick on but I get no voltage when I test at the back of the controller. Here is my wiring diagram.
Also I have no idea what the loading is for. This isn't the STC-1000 this is the Fahrenheit model. I also tried to wire up every leg of of the neutral and that didn't work eitherhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/160740995557...ht_3944wt_1396 (Also I understand its AC current but the red/black is just for effect)

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Old 04-04-2012, 07:23 AM   #2532
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Originally Posted by f0xtr0t
Alas, I am trying to wire up one for a friend and I'm having some problems. I can't get the switched outlet to work. I waited for the delay and I can hear the relay kick on but I get no voltage when I test at the back of the controller. Here is my wiring diagram.
Also I have no idea what the loading is for. This isn't the STC-1000 this is the Fahrenheit model. http://www.ebay.com/itm/160740995557...ht_3944wt_1396 (Also I understand its AC current but the red/black is just for effect)
The "loading" terminals are the relay. Don't use the "function control" terminals at all. Shorting them simply locks the programming in place so it can't be changed. If you go back just a few pages in this thread you'll find where someone posted my wiring diagram for that unit.

Edit: You also need to use the relay to switch one leg of the power to the outlet, the controller doesn't supply the power.

Edit#2: Here's the diagram-
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:28 AM   #2533
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Ahh this one is a little different then the one I got first. OK well I back to the work bench to try it out.

Well No dice. I still get no power. I thought I checked with my multimeter at the loading terminals. I guess this unit was defective. The worst part is I can hear the relay kick on and off.

Ok I just read your edit. I think I got it now. Ill rewire in the morning after waffle breakfast with the kids
[update]
You were right. I was thinking that the 1/2 terminal supplied power instead of a switch. Here I fixed it I tested it on my Keezer and it's working fine. I also fixed the diagram.

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Reason: add update
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:25 AM   #2534
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Ok but recommended by who? The 16/3 wire I have is rated at 13 amps. Whats the max amps the freezer pulls 6? and 1.5 when its running. Plus that is rated at 25' not the 10' you will probably cut it at. What I am saying is 16 ga wire is within specs to run the equipment there is no need to waste money and buy a larger gauge cord just because your scared of burning your house down. If the cord is rated at a spec it is perfectly safe to use it within the specified uses of the wire.
I made the comment about the wire being over rated by the manufacturer because that is essentially what your suggesting to do. The wire is already over speced by the manufacturer to protect them and you are suggesting to go further. Which to me is pointless and a waste of money. ...Although If it helps you sleep at night. I guess you can buy peace of mind.
Your also assuming everyone is using the same type fridge, larger capacity fridges will pull more amps, also the reason they also use the larger amperage is because of starting load watts/amps can hit the amperage ratting of 16 gauge wires. Some fridges starting amps can hit 13-14 amps 1-3 secs, if the fridge is in perfect working condition that it may never get close. And 14/3 is not that much more expensive that 16/3 gauge when your normally talking about 2-3 feet.

I am just trying to be informative about the safety of things... Now if you have a tester that can tell you what your starting amps are you can defiantly determine what gauge you can use. But. Unless you have that tool you should just use what is recommended by pretty much every electrician to every non-electrician. Also i think a kill-o-watt meter will not be able to give you an accurate read of the surge power, it is made to test a running wattage.


This is an estimate I found, by no means will it always be accurate to your device...

Multiply: WATTS X 2 = Starting Load
This formula yields a close approximation of the starting load of the appliance, though some may require an even greater starting load. NOTE: Induction motors such as air conditioners, refrigerators, freezers and pumps may have a start up surge of 3 to 7 times the continuous rating.
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:04 PM   #2535
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I disagree, they have the safety regulations for a reason. Electricity is dangerous! The wire generate heat as more power flows though them. More amps more heat, smaller wire will cause Tito heat too fast. All that heat soon burns your house down. I use the 14 gauge wire, with a fuse. Which prevents me from ever getting close to overloading.


Recommended:
Refrigerator - 110 - 120 volt, 60 hertz, properly grounded circuit protected by a 15 amp circuit breaker or fuse. #14 gauge house wire minimum, #12 is preferred. A separate (dedicated ) circuit serving this appliance is recommended

Although electrical wiring is designed to carry current at much higher than its rated capacity, increasing current above this rated capacity causes the wire to generate excess heat. This is not a problem as long as the heat can be dissipated from the wire. However, if the wire is enclosed within a small insulated space the heat in these areas may not be able to dissipate as quickly as it is being generated

Giving someone bad information when dealing with electricity could ruin someone's life or worst. Not everyone here works as an electrician.
Yup, I completely agree. I'm a cheap skate but even I opted for the 14 gauge wire. I'd rather be safe than sorry especially when it concerns electrical projects and the potential for fire.

kennywd, since I'm certainly no electrician, how could I go about wiring a fuse into this setup? I copied everything in the original post and have the STC-1000 model.
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Old 04-05-2012, 04:11 PM   #2536
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They make in-line fuses at radio shack. You just put it inline in-between the wall the stc-1000.


And the point I was making is 16/3 is rated at 13 amps. My keezer is 5 amps at startup and 1.5 while running. Which is well within spec for the cable. So check your freezer and determine the correct cable size for your particular application.

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Old 04-05-2012, 08:02 PM   #2537
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Originally Posted by f0xtr0t
They make in-line fuses at radio shack. You just put it inline in-between the wall the stc-1000.

And the point I was making is 16/3 is rated at 13 amps. My keezer is 5 amps at startup and 1.5 while running. Which is well within spec for the cable. So check your freezer and determine the correct cable size for your particular application.
Which is good, I am sorry if I seemed heated, my family owns an electrician company here. I grew up being over careful when it comes to electricity. I have known ppl who have gotten hurt by not following codes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drocu

Yup, I completely agree. I'm a cheap skate but even I opted for the 14 gauge wire. I'd rather be safe than sorry especially when it concerns electrical projects and the potential for fire.

kennywd, since I'm certainly no electrician, how could I go about wiring a fuse into this setup? I copied everything in the original post and have the STC-1000 model.
Foxtrot is right they do make an inline fuse at radio shack. I picked up one up that screws into the side of my project box and you just solder the wire on ... Mine is rated for 10 amps.. I live in Texas, and as soon as the heat kicked up I blew the fuse. That has been once in the 7 months I have used it. Even though your fridge probably won't hit 10 amps normally like foxtrot has said, there are rare occasions when you can.. I have no idea what the peak amps where that blew the fuse. Now radio shack where I live didn't have a 15 amp fuse, but I would have rather picked that up, since the wire is rated for 15amps.


You can see my fuse at the bottom of the box right next to the wire coming out.. If the fuse blows it just shuts my fridge down.

image-316055222.jpg
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Old 04-06-2012, 01:07 AM   #2538
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I thought I'd share a bit of info. I will admit I didn't read all 254 pages of this thread but I've done searches for this and didn't come up with anything on this board.

I was looking to create an additional probe for my STC-1000. Not originally understanding the difference between K-Type and NTC probes I wrongly assumed I could get a SS K-Type probe and cut the wires and connect it. This failed miserably so I looked around these boards and others to figure out how the probe worked and if I could find a replacement.

To summarize my findings the probe is a NTC thermistor. To replace a NTC thermistor you have to know its Resistance at 25C and its Beta curve. According to a thread on TheHomeBrewForum.co.uk Thread link the probe is the same as a probe for another temp controller called a "ATC-800+" which has a known resistance of 10K at 25C and a Beta curve of 3435K between 25/85C.

All that being said Digi-Key has said NTC Thermistors for less then a dollar a piece Part link. I ordered 5 and I'm testing one now side by side with the original probe with good results, I'm getting a consistent temperature within .3C (1F) of the original probe at temps between 32.2C (90F) and -19C (-2.2F).

So I plan to take a SS probe I have sitting around (cheap digital oven probe) cut the end off and pull the K-Type probe out then insert my NTC Thermistor and seal it up. This way I can have a SS probe use switch out and use my temp controller for a Sous vide cooker via my slow cooker. I don't trust the original probe sitting in a hot water bath.

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Old 04-08-2012, 04:50 PM   #2539
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I got mine wired in yesterday. Works awesome! I used the wiring diagrams on this thread.

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Old 04-08-2012, 07:20 PM   #2540
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Thanks for this info, could be very useful in the future

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Originally Posted by Ibanous View Post
I thought I'd share a bit of info. I will admit I didn't read all 254 pages of this thread but I've done searches for this and didn't come up with anything on this board.

I was looking to create an additional probe for my STC-1000. Not originally understanding the difference between K-Type and NTC probes I wrongly assumed I could get a SS K-Type probe and cut the wires and connect it. This failed miserably so I looked around these boards and others to figure out how the probe worked and if I could find a replacement.

To summarize my findings the probe is a NTC thermistor. To replace a NTC thermistor you have to know its Resistance at 25C and its Beta curve. According to a thread on TheHomeBrewForum.co.uk Thread link the probe is the same as a probe for another temp controller called a "ATC-800+" which has a known resistance of 10K at 25C and a Beta curve of 3435K between 25/85C.

All that being said Digi-Key has said NTC Thermistors for less then a dollar a piece Part link. I ordered 5 and I'm testing one now side by side with the original probe with good results, I'm getting a consistent temperature within .3C (1F) of the original probe at temps between 32.2C (90F) and -19C (-2.2F).

So I plan to take a SS probe I have sitting around (cheap digital oven probe) cut the end off and pull the K-Type probe out then insert my NTC Thermistor and seal it up. This way I can have a SS probe use switch out and use my temp controller for a Sous vide cooker via my slow cooker. I don't trust the original probe sitting in a hot water bath.
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