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Old 03-30-2012, 04:19 PM   #2501
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Thank you Juan, that was the solution and so simple. The model number on mine is DWH7016C 110 v.

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Old 03-30-2012, 05:32 PM   #2502
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Originally Posted by JuanMoore View Post
If that diagram worked for you then you have the single stage model, which can either operate in heating mode or cooling mode, but can not control both heating and cooling at the same time. You seem to have it set to heating mode. Here are the directions for switching between heating and cooling modes-
Isn't the post #1 diagram of a single state model? But it has 2 plugs, one for hot, one for cold.
I thought dual stage models show 2 different temperatures? I'm trying to understand this and figure out which one to get.

Also, where and how do you attach the project boxes?
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:40 PM   #2503
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Isn't the post #1 diagram of a single state model? But it has 2 plugs, one for hot, one for cold.
I thought dual stage models show 2 different temperatures? I'm trying to understand this and figure out which one to get.

Also, where and how do you attach the project boxes?
It is a dual stage thermometer. Dual stage only means it does heating and cooling. You only need to see 1 temp. If the temp is ABOVE your set temp it cools. If it's BELOW it heats. Thats it.

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Originally Posted by blackdak
I think that I have got the knock off stc controller. On the wiring diagram it has 1&2 as Loading, 3&4 as Power Supply, 5&6 as Function Control and 7&8 as Temp. Probe. Has anyone wired one of these up so that it controls heating and cooling?
Read the first post.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:51 PM   #2504
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I think that I have got the knock off stc controller. On the wiring diagram it has 1&2 as Loading, 3&4 as Power Supply, 5&6 as Function Control and 7&8 as Temp. Probe. Has anyone wired one of these up so that it controls heating and cooling?
No, because if that's how your terminals are labeled, you have a single stage controller. As I said 6 posts ago, a single stage controller can only control heating or cooling, it can not control both at the same time. For a wiring diagram for your unit, as well as directions for how to switch between heating mode and cooling mode, go back 6 posts.

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Originally Posted by Sapperaviator View Post
Thank you Juan, that was the solution and so simple. The model number on mine is DWH7016C 110 v.
No problem, glad I could help.

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Originally Posted by johnlvs2run View Post
Isn't the post #1 diagram of a single state model? But it has 2 plugs, one for hot, one for cold.
I thought dual stage models show 2 different temperatures? I'm trying to understand this and figure out which one to get.
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Originally Posted by mjmac85 View Post
It is a dual stage thermometer. Dual stage only means it does heating and cooling. You only need to see 1 temp. If the temp is ABOVE your set temp it cools. If it's BELOW it heats. Thats it.
This ^

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Also, where and how do you attach the project boxes?
Most people using a project box are doing so to make it into a stand alone unit, similar to a Ranco or Johnson controller. If you want the controller mounted somewhere in your keezer or fermentation cabinet, it probably makes more sense not to use a project box. If you do want to mount it somewhere, with or without a project box, you can mount it wherever/however you want though.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:59 PM   #2505
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It's a lot easier to mount it into a project box than the fridge/freezer. You do not need to run wires through walls. I did not want to hit a coolant line. My freezer is not a show piece so I'm not concerned with how it looks. Mine just sits on top of the lid in the box. I just move it when I want to get inside. Really no reason to open it though. I check every few days to make sure nothing blew up or decided to live next to my beer.

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Old 03-30-2012, 08:32 PM   #2506
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Can anyone help me decide between this aquarium Controller or the Control Products TC-9102D-HV on amazon? Need a controller for my fermentation freezer (salvaged commercial SS freezer from a Mexican fast food establishment). Thanks!
$60 vs $30
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Old 03-31-2012, 03:14 AM   #2507
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Finally brought fridge home and hooked it up. Works like a charm. Now if I can just brew more often ;-)

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Old 03-31-2012, 05:03 PM   #2508
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It is a dual stage thermometer. Dual stage only means it does heating and cooling. You only need to see 1 temp. If the temp is ABOVE your set temp it cools. If it's BELOW it heats. Thats it.
Thanks. I don't need to see the set temp all the time, but wouldn't mind getting a dual if it ran a 2nd device, or at least showed room temperature. The tcqbn2006p listing states "The Controller can be set to control two separate devices at the same time.", which indicates this is possible, with 2 probes I guess? I prefer single controllers though 2 of them would be 3 times the price of a dual.

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Most people using a project box are doing so to make it into a stand alone unit
Right, but stand alone where? I have seen quite a few controller project boxes online but none of them attached to anything. I've been wondering if one could be recessed in the wall, along with the regular outlets. I see now that the boxes would need to be turned around so the screw plate goes on front, or I could use a regular switchplate outlet box. The probe would be coming out but still it should look good this way. However would the controller get too hot in the wall?
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:16 PM   #2509
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Thanks. I don't need to see the set temp all the time, but wouldn't mind getting a dual if it ran a 2nd device, or at least showed room temperature. The tcqbn2006p listing states "The Controller can be set to control two separate devices at the same time.", which indicates this is possible, with 2 probes I guess? I prefer single controllers though 2 of them would be 3 times the price of a dual.
The explanation of how it works by mjmac85 was essentially correct, but a bit oversimplified. For both the dual stage unit that this thread is about (STC-1000), and the similar single stage unit, the display actually shows the temperature that the probe is reading, not the set temp you have programmed. The STC-1000 controls two devices at the same time, one heating device, and one cooling device, but only uses one temperature probe to do this. You have to program both a set temperature and a temperature differential. If the probe reads above the set temp plus the temp differential, the cooling device is turned on, and runs until the temp comes back to the set temp. If the temp drops below the set temp minus the temp differential, the heating device is activated, and stays on until the temp reaches the set point.

For example, if you have the set temp at 18.0C and the differential set at 0.5C, nothing will happen as long as the temp stays between 17.6C and 18.4C. As soon as the temp reaches 18.5C, the fridge will activate and cool until the temp comes down to 18.0. If the temps drops to 17.5C the heater will activate and stay on until the temp comes up to 18.0C. And FWIW the STC-1000 has a minimum temperature differential of 0.3C.

The PID you linked seems to be set up to operate the same way, and also only has one temperature probe input. The main difference is that it has two displays, one to show the temp sensor reading (upper display), and one to display the set temp (lower display). The relays on that unit are only rated for 3A, which is less than most fridges and freezers draw, and might require adding an external SSR. The relays on the STC-1000 controller on the other hand are rated for 10A.

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Right, but stand alone where? I have seen quite a few controller project boxes online but none of them attached to anything. I've been wondering if one could be recessed in the wall, along with the regular outlets. I see now that the boxes would need to be turned around so the screw plate goes on front, or I could use a regular switchplate outlet box. The probe would be coming out but still it should look good this way. However would the controller get too hot in the wall?
A lot of people place the stand alone unit on top of their fermentation fridge/cabinet, some simply tuck it out of the way behind the ferm fridge/cabinet, and some screw it to the wall or side of their ferm cabinet. The one for my keezer is built into the collar, but I set the stand alone unit for my fermentation fridge on top of the fridge. I don't see any issue with mounting the unit in a wall. It wouldn't get any hotter in the wall than it would in a small airtight project box. The mounting size is only slightly larger than a decora outlet, so you could do something like this build, except install the box in a wall. You'd just need to drill a small hole in the cover plate for the temperature probe to come through. If you used an "old work" box you could mount it sideways so that the controller display is oriented properly.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:47 PM   #2510
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I don't see any issue with mounting the unit in a wall. It wouldn't get any hotter in the wall than it would in a small airtight project box. The mounting size is only slightly larger than a decora outlet, so you could do something like this build, except install the box in a wall.
Awesome! That's what I'm going to do.

Thanks for your comments. Very helpful!

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The relays on that unit are only rated for 3A, which is less than most fridges and freezers draw, and might require adding an external SSR. The relays on the STC-1000 controller on the other hand are rated for 10A.
Is the STC-1000 as good as a PID controller?

Would adding an SSR be helpful even if the controller is rated for higher than the draw?
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