Originally Posted by WBC
I did the same thing a while back and used the same foam ( Extruded Expanded Polystyrene (XEPS) Boards ) but to get extreme efficiency you can use the super glue foam panels ( Urethanes: Polyurethane and Polyisocyanurate - R-value of between R-7 and R-8 per inch ) that are available at Lowes. The "R" rating is much better and is the same thing used in a refrigerator walls but is sprayed in. If a refrigerator has only 1.5 to 2 inches and you double that it would be very efficient. It does not look like you put foam on the bottom? This is very important and should be added because cold goes down and radiates out the bottom of the cabinet. In the long run the more insulation you have the less the refrigeration runs and you save more money.
Ref: Foam and Foam Board Insulation
I took a look at 4.9 and 7 cu/ft chest freezers at Home Depot, measured 2 3/4" to just 3" thickness total side, back, front, bottom (best I could) and top of their freezers. All their posted dimensions are outside dimensions, this can screw a person up thinking their corny or keg count amount will fit. Check tose internal dimensions before ever purchasing a freezer. I recall a thread with carboard disks cut out for corny kegs to check the corny keg amounts per different chest freezer brands and sizes, a darn good idea. The depth of the freezer allowing for your tap fittings to clear the lid when closed is a must unless your planning on adding a collar as my friend went to Sears using their outside dimensions and screwed up purchasing a too small of a chest. Buy the right one once or build to your needs.
Hey Death Brewer; what's the BTU's of that AC unit your using?
Will it pull down and maintain temps if in a 80 degree room all day
inside a house? My 10' x 10' basement is the coldest part of the house
reaching 72-74 degrees when we have those 92 degree bay area temps.
This for the fermenting unit not a keezer bier tap. DeathBrewer a PM sent to ya.